Big Block Chevy engine mounting

[56frank]

Good evening everyone! I'm looking for some information on mounting a 427 in a 56 chevy. I'm sure there is plenty of guys on here that have done this. I am new to tri-fives and would like some input on which mounting kits you guys recommend? My goal is to not have to mess with the stock firewall.

[56frank]

Well I should have read a little more. I see some guys really liking Earle Williams mounts. The pictures of the mounts look beautiful! So I guess if anyone has any other opinions I'm open to them.

[Rick_L]

I think the new style Earle Williams mounts are a great concept. I've not used them, but I've bought several items from Earle and anything he makes is good stuff.

I also think that the 3/4" forward mount that Earle does his stuff around is the best compromise for most setups, particularly if you don't go with a clip, etc. I'm sure Chevynut will pitch you his and how he mounts a BBC with that, but that's another deal over and above an engine swap.

[56frank]

Thanks Rick! I'm going to look more into all of his products also. I'm trying to gather info so I have a plan of attack on my next project and this has helped. Thanks!

[markm]

I very sucessfully used the 2.25
.


I sucessfully used the CCI 2.25 foward, I have room for taller valve covers. Anything less than Cnuts 1.5 may require a big hammer.

[56frank]

Thanks mark I'll do research on them! Rather not break out the heavy hammer.

[Rick_L]

"Rather not break out the heavy hammer."

A big block swap is always going to be a balancing act.

Don't move the engine forward at all, you have some serious firewall issues.
Move it forward 3/4", you have moderate firewall issues and moderate oil pan issues, but avoid accessory drive/fan/radiator issues.
Move it forward 1-1/2" - 2-1/2", the firewall gets better or goes away, but the oil pan gets worse, and the accessory drive/fan/radiator issues get worse.

Maybe markm would elaborate on his oil pan and front drive issues and solutions. Like does he have a dropped center link, a seriously modified oil pan, and room for a fan.

I tend to like the 3/4" forward approach.

[56-210Sedan]

I agree with Rick, i have not bought the engine mounts but have bought a few other things from Earle and his work is outstanding IMHO.

[markm]

I picked up a hotched BBC Chevy II pan at the KC Shriners swap meet for $35 and another one a Moroso at Pate $65. I used all repo 67 Camaro SWP pulleys and PS brackets etc. A clockable base Edelebrock mechanical fuel pump. If I had only gone 3/4 foward my 2x4 tunnel ram would have had major issues with carb and air cleaner issues. I have Patriot headers and a 500 PS box. I run a stock 6 blade fan off a 70 Chevy pickup, the radiator is in the 6 cyl position. I can easily remove my valve covers to adjust the solid lifters. The cool thing is when I got this all together and took it in for a front end alignment to the best shpo in town it was free, the shop owner wanted my parts list for his build.

[Rick_L]

Mark, are you running a fan clutch? And if not, is there room?

[markm]

Mark, are you running a fan clutch? And if not, is there room?

I run a non clutch type fan with a 2 inch spacer, if I remember correctly, I am not a big fan of clutch fans. I spent so much time the past few months on the 56 PS conversion that the 55 has sat and kinda been forgotten.

[chevynut]

PersonallyI think 1.25-1.5" forward is the best compromise. It's a little more than 3/4" forward which still requires firewall mods, although kinda minor ones. It's not 2.25" forward which I feel is unnecessary to clear the firewall, and steering clearance is minor.

If it was me, I'd drop the engine in place, locate it where it fits the best, and build some mounts to hold it there. I'd have my headers, WP/fan, radiator, steering, and everything else that may interfere in place, then I'd compromise where it's easiest to deal with the interference.

I personally think the kits out there are crazy expensive for what you get, and a guy with a welder should be able to do this without a kit. Save yourself several hundred dollars and try it.

[markm]

In all honesty my biggest issue was the lower radiator hose which I blame on the radiator. A different one would have solved this issue.

[56frank]

Awesome info guys thank you!

[vabeach56wagon]

PersonallyI think 1.25-1.5" forward is the best compromise. It's a little more than 3/4" forward which still requires firewall mods, although kinda minor ones. It's not 2.25" forward which I feel is unnecessary to clear the firewall, and steering clearance is minor.

If it was me, I'd drop the engine in place, locate it where it fits the best, and build some mounts to hold it there. I'd have my headers, WP/fan, radiator, steering, and everything else that may interfere in place, then I'd compromise where it's easiest to deal with the interference.

I personally think the kits out there are crazy expensive for what you get, and a guy with a welder should be able to do this without a kit. Save yourself several hundred dollars and try it.

The old Hurst saddle mount for the BBC in our cars was located on the frame at the 6 cylinder mounts. I assume that moved the motor forward somewhat but I have no idea how much. Back in '68 the driver side valve cover cleared with almost no massaging of the firewall but the passenger side took a BFH's work to clear. Nobody at that time, in Modified Production, would cut the firewall because it would prompt an NHRA question on engine positioning. MP's were not allowed any engine setback in contrast to the gas classes 10%. I still have the installation instructions for that Hurst mount.

Wow, some of these posts are really old....

paul

[markm]

I wonder what the the OP ever did.

[Old Man]

What distributor do you run with this setup? Will a HEI work with ¾” forward or does itneed more? Just came across a 454 and Iplan on using it on our father and son project.