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warren57
06-02-2013, 07:42 PM
Finished bead blasting my gauge cluster, column cover, etc.
Never painted pot metal, but these parts were painted from the factory, so I'm thinking no special process or materials? While blasting I removed a coat of color and didn't see any evidence of primer.

I've never tried epoxy primer, and don't know if there is any advantage with these parts?

I was thinking wipe the parts with lacquer thinner, spray some heavy build primer (to fill in the pits, etc.) sand smooth, re-prime as required, then apply topcoat (probably a basecoat/clearcoat).
Any suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks

warren57
06-07-2013, 07:19 PM
Finished bead blasting my gauge cluster, column cover, etc.
Never painted pot metal, but these parts were painted from the factory, so I'm thinking no special process or materials? While blasting I removed a coat of color and didn't see any evidence of primer.

I've never tried epoxy primer, and don't know if there is any advantage with these parts?

I was thinking wipe the parts with lacquer thinner, spray some heavy build primer (to fill in the pits, etc.) sand smooth, re-prime as required, then apply topcoat (probably a basecoat/clearcoat).
Any suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks

Found a qt of PPG epoxy primer and catalyst in the paint cabinet. Must have bought it for something and never used it. Opened it and it looked good, so all the parts now have epoxy on them. Now a little wet sanding and we'll get topcoat on them. Was a little difficult with all the tight areas. Trying to decide if I want to top coat with my Badger touch up gun or use rattle cans.
I just don't think I can get a usable (controllable) pattern out of my full size DeVillbis gun. Maybe I'll experiment with an old dash cluster I have to see what works best...

DoubleNickel
06-09-2013, 06:29 PM
Rattle can paint is no where near as hard or durable as 2k paint. At the least if you use rattle can paint, clear coat using a 2k which is available in rattle cans. http://www.spraymax.de/index.php?id=149&L=1