Ryan's 57 4 door Belair Hardtop Project

[hurddawg]

Hello All,

Here is my project...

Vehicle: 1957
Trim: Belair
Body: 4 door Hardtop
Factory Installed Options: A/C, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Power Windows, Power Seat, EZ-Eye, Powerglide and Powerpak 283

I still have a Powerglide, and it is still in the car. I have the original in a bucket. I have suspicion that it was thrown in reverse while at speed. The Original motor is long gone replaced by a 1958 truck 283 with a 2bbl based on Suffix code (but has double humps installed). How do I figure it was a Powerpak car? Well the exhaust hanger is there for the dual exhaust and both the brake lines and fuel lines are routed outside the frame. I think it is a good possibility anyway. Not that I am going to keep it that way, just a cool fact for myself. A/C parts under the hood had been sold or just plain taken out years ago it seems. I still have the A/C control inside and the A/C idle cable, along with the vents. VintageAir here I come!

I originally intended on using my 210 as my project...I saved it from the wrecking yard. It's relatively rust free, fairly complete, but has had some radio "modifications" done in the dash, interior is well in poor shape and wiring was shot. Although I did do repairs to fix the wiring to an operational state.

The 4DHT on the other hand is a complete driver....just drove it last Sunday. The 283 purrs, runs on all cylinders, great sounding motor.....the powerglide on the other hand....sorry powerglide lovers....it is not my cup of tea. I just had the 58 valve covers powdercoated Chevy orange, the covers looked great, but made everything else well old....

Plans:

I didnt intend on doing an all out, frame off restore but upgrade things here and there as a driver. I planned on attending a Car show in August which is the NW Trifive club, but Chevynut convinced me otherwise....

In the current stage, I intend to get the frame modified, coated and reinstalled and get the vehicle back on the road. I hope to do this in a year or so. But that depends on my free time (I work 6 days a week).

Current modifications on the table.

- Classic Edge Design's C4 full conversion.
- Brakes, in conjunction with C4 brake parts from CED
- Steering
- New Dual Exhaust
- SBC 350 Engine from 69 Chevelle
- TH400 Transmission
- Swapping chrome bumpers with the 210 (The 210 has a "California" style bumper and its chrome is in better shape)

Its a pretty major step.

This is the first stage and its goal is to get frame & Body back together and on the road again as soon as I can. We'll see how I do...:cool:

[hurddawg]

Day I bought the car.

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/IMG_0570_1024x768_zps4c8a0b1d.jpg

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/IMG_0572_1024x768_zpse43a535e.jpg

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/IMG_0576_1024x768_zps6f4c02a1.jpg

Here's a video of it on Youtube. This is just before I parked it in the garage for teardown. Its my first youtube video, so sorry it isnt so great. The first part of the video was supposed to capture the exhaust note, but instead I just got gassed out. :P

http://youtu.be/6S5okye1x4c

[hurddawg]

Day one, Sunday, 7/28/13. This is the day I decided to have Chevynut modify my frame. I wasted no time in getting started.

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/IMG_0687_zps2a81797e.jpg


Only got a couple hours in. Only broken two bolts so far. Although not obvious, part of the radiator support is undone. I was trying to remove the Passenger side fender, but stopped since I did not have the proper bits to remove the headlight cups (clutch head type). Tried to use a common screwdriver, but only managed one to break loose. The hood is a lot heavier than I was thinking! Managed by myself though.

Day two, Monday 7/29/13. I removed the front light bar & grille and the radiator support is close to coming loose. I need to remove the radiator.
I forgot to bring home some bits for the clutch head screws. Which reminds me right now.... :)

[chevynut]

Wow Ryan, that's a nice-looking 57. We'll make it a nice-driving 57!!

I'm looking forward to meeting you in a few weeks to pick up your frame. You mentioned you lived in Auburn...do you know Hotroddder (Dick)? I am going to try to stop by and see him while I'm in your area. Maybe we could all get together and have a beer.

I will do everything I can to help you get the car back on the road with the new frame. It's a major step, but one that other customers were glad they did!!

[chevynut]

Ryan, did you know you can take off the whole front clip in one unit? That's the way they put them on at the factory. You don't have to disassemble the clip to take it off.

[chevynut]

http://www.55-57chevys.com/coccc/showroom/ass/1956/a1.jpg

http://www.55-57chevys.com/coccc/showroom/ass/1957/a4.jpg

[carls 56 (RIP 11/24/2021)]

good looking 57 to start with, have fun with it. :cool:

[WagonCrazy]

Thats a great looking 4 door no-post to start from. With a C4 frame swap, you'll find this project to be a bit more work than you might have thought, but well
Worth it in the end as far as handling improvements.

Im in the middle of one of Laszlo's frame builds on my Nomad and struggling with the long build time its taking due to lifes inevitable time committments.

My advice to you is not to be discouraged when you get this all torn apart and then hit a snag or delay that leaves the car torn apart in your garage for periods of time. Keep the attitude that "I got to finish this thing by..." And give yourself a date to have it done by. Life has a way of getting in the way of our projects sometimes, but keep the faith.

That will be one great driving 4 door when its finished.

[hurddawg]

Managed to pull the fender. I could not do a whole lot last night since I worked late, but was determined to get that fender off.
Once I figured out I needed to unbolt the "outside air" duct from inside the cab, out she came! Also I found the headlight cups do not need to be removed. FYI so anyone doing this....do not have your wheels turned like I have in the photo....it makes it doubly hard to remove the fender smoothly. at least, if you remove the inner fender at the same time.

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/IMG_0688_zpsa8829afc.jpg

I think I have it down as far how to remove the fender, so the driver side one should go easier. I should have a naked motor sitting there tonight with some luck!

[hurddawg]

Wow Ryan, that's a nice-looking 57. We'll make it a nice-driving 57!!

I'm looking forward to meeting you in a few weeks to pick up your frame. You mentioned you lived in Auburn...do you know Hotroddder (Dick)? I am going to try to stop by and see him while I'm in your area. Maybe we could all get together and have a beer.

I will do everything I can to help you get the car back on the road with the new frame. It's a major step, but one that other customers were glad they did!!

Yes I do live in Auburn, but I don't know Hotroddder though. If it works out, I wouldnt mind having a beer with y'all, I'm one of the young ones among the trifivers (31yrs). The car has me beat in age by a couple decades lol. Anyway Look forward to get this frame revitalized with your help! Appreciate your support...!

[hurddawg]

Ryan, did you know you can take off the whole front clip in one unit? That's the way they put them on at the factory. You don't have to disassemble the clip to take it off.

Yes and No. I found out after I unbolted the majority of the fender/core support/lightbar/grille. If I actually read the factory service manual that came with the car before this, I would have known that.... I guess the second issue is space. My garage is terribly small, if its in pieces I could haul the bits by pieces to storage. Otherwise it would have been an awesome time saver.....particularly for reassembly. Current plan is to leave the cab in my garage until I have the frame ready to roll back under it. When I have the frame separated from the cab, haul the frame on a trailer to Tacoma and finish disassembly there (suspension, etc). This weekend I hope to work on removing the drivetrain and put it in storage as well.

[hurddawg]

Thats a great looking 4 door no-post to start from. With a C4 frame swap, you'll find this project to be a bit more work than you might have thought, but well
Worth it in the end as far as handling improvements.

Im in the middle of one of Laszlo's frame builds on my Nomad and struggling with the long build time its taking due to lifes inevitable time committments.

My advice to you is not to be discouraged when you get this all torn apart and then hit a snag or delay that leaves the car torn apart in your garage for periods of time. Keep the attitude that "I got to finish this thing by..." And give yourself a date to have it done by. Life has a way of getting in the way of our projects sometimes, but keep the faith.

That will be one great driving 4 door when its finished.

Thanks for the advice, I appreciate it. And I am sure it is more work than I envisioned and it may not be perfect, but hey, at least I can say I put it together. :)

[chevynut]

Ryan, it's not as bad as Paul makes it out to be...LOL! :) He has done a lot of custom work like making his own LS engine accessory brackets, etc. Most all the parts to make it go together are available. Mine is custom from top to bottom, so it's been a lot of work.

One thing you might want to think about if you plan to upgrade to an LS engine is the fuel system because you will need an in-tank pump and dual fuel lines for EFI. We can talk about that if you'd like...I have a solution for that. Also plan your exhaust out for the swap, as well as a plan for engine cooling (LS hoses both come out on passenger side).

As in any project like this, you will have to deal with the steering column and shaft, brake lines/booster/master cylinder, fuel lines, exhaust, driveshaft, e-brake, and a few other things. We already talked about most of those.

Paul, any other words of advice or areas to consider?

It should be an awesome car when finished. ;)

[chevynut]

BTW, here's Paul's frame that we built for him.....

2126

[hurddawg]

Ryan, it's not as bad as Paul makes it out to be...LOL! :) He has done a lot of custom work like making his own LS engine accessory brackets, etc. Most all the parts to make it go together are available. Mine is custom from top to bottom, so it's been a lot of work.

One thing you might want to think about if you plan to upgrade to an LS engine is the fuel system because you will need an in-tank pump and dual fuel lines for EFI. We can talk about that if you'd like...I have a solution for that. Also plan your exhaust out for the swap, as well as a plan for engine cooling (LS hoses both come out on passenger side).

As in any project like this, you will have to deal with the steering column and shaft, brake lines/booster/master cylinder, fuel lines, exhaust, driveshaft, e-brake, and a few other things. We already talked about most of those.

Paul, any other words of advice or areas to consider?

It should be an awesome car when finished. ;)

I am not worried much. The fuel system issue when I do step up to an LS in the future is something I had not considered. I was planning replacing and relocating the tank to the frame anyway. I guess it would be just as easy to plumb a return line as well. What was your solution?

Tank wise I was really interested in the CPP Aluminum 25 gal tank. Its said to be capable of EFI with the in tank pump as well. Any thoughts? Is that a good choice?

[hurddawg]

BTW, here's Paul's frame that we built for him.....

2126

Nice looking frame there...!

[chevynut]

Ryan, we can talk about your fuel tank options. I built my own out of stainless from scratch, as well as the pump unit and all plumbing...everything is stainless. The rear swaybar presents some issues with tank location, but there are tanks that work.

I would recommend re-thinking a 25-gallon tank. When I was building mine, I was in the mode of getting every last gallon I could into it...now I think that's dumb. Nobody really needs to carry that much gas in a hotrod. I think around 18 gallons or so is sufficient...16-20 is probably the range I would shoot for. The smaller tanks fit better, and look better imo. How far do you really think you need to drive before you want to stop and pee anyhow? :)

Here's mine...there's more room under a wagon cargo floor so it fits well. It's about 23 gallons and hangs below the frame about 1 1/2", same as my exhaust pipes. You can barely see it from the rear without the bumper on.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com:80/VOL97/465705/14164434/246464822.jpg

2128

[WagonCrazy]

I was planning replacing and relocating the tank to the frame anyway. I guess it would be just as easy to plumb a return line as well. What was your solution?

My 2002 LS1 engine needs no return line coming from the engine compartment. All it needs is one 3/8 inch diameter fuel line from the tank to the engine.

However, outside the tank, and somwhere near where you mount the tank, you'll need to plumb in a fuel regulator. So you have 2 lines coming from the tank to the regulator (supply and return), and then the one supply line going forward from the regulator to the engine bay.

My setup involves using an aftermarket made tank with an "in tank pump". It's 16 gallons I think. I wish I could have found a larger one, but didnt' want to spend the money for a custom made tank.

You can also go with a tank that uses an external pump, but guys have found those to burn up quickly, AND when there's no baffles inside the tank, you end up with fuel starvation issues when cornering with less than 1/4 tank of fuel.

So look for a tank that has internal baffles, in-tank pump, and fits between your framerails and you're good to go with a later LS engine.

Here's how I did mine...
2169

And I fabricated a bolt-in tank mount to center the tank between the frame rails, and position it up high (since a wagon has alot of space below the floor).
2170

[hurddawg]

Well, things were slow, after the last update I never did remove the driver fender. Work was in the way; I had to work really late not allowing for any trifive love. So yesterday, I decided I was going about disassembling the car all wrong. So I decided to reassemble the vehicle and moved it down south where I would eventually keep the motor & powerglide and some of the body parts. I left the bumper off & a piece of chrome, refilled with antifreeze and off we went.

This is where we stand now...
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/IMG_0690_zps4c54fd8e.jpg

With luck tonight, I will start into removal of the front clip. As with Chevynut's initial suggestion, I'll attempt to remove the clip in 1 part rather than multiple assemblies. I believe I have it down as far as which bolts need to be removed. We'll see!

Next up would be the drivetrain. I hope to get that far by Sunday.

[hurddawg]

Ryan, we can talk about your fuel tank options. I built my own out of stainless from scratch, as well as the pump unit and all plumbing...everything is stainless. The rear swaybar presents some issues with tank location, but there are tanks that work.

I would recommend re-thinking a 25-gallon tank. When I was building mine, I was in the mode of getting every last gallon I could into it...now I think that's dumb. Nobody really needs to carry that much gas in a hotrod. I think around 18 gallons or so is sufficient...16-20 is probably the range I would shoot for. The smaller tanks fit better, and look better imo. How far do you really think you need to drive before you want to stop and pee anyhow? :)

Here's mine...there's more room under a wagon cargo floor so it fits well. It's about 23 gallons and hangs below the frame about 1 1/2", same as my exhaust pipes. You can barely see it from the rear without the bumper on.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com:80/VOL97/465705/14164434/246464822.jpg

2128

Thanks for the info. More than anything, I was lured in by the CPP tank's 1) cost, 2) frame mount and location (spare tire well intact). I knew the stock tank would need to be replaced but there is not much info on which tanks do work. All I have found in my searching is a Rick's tank that would work, which I may end up doing. They have a 16 gal and a 22gal for a trifive and I am not exactly sure which is the one that fits (Assuming the 16gal, but maybe both) The only reason why I know at least one of the Rick's tank works is because of NCW's photo as attached (I hope he & client doesn't mind). The rear sway isn't installed, but the attachments are on there so I assume it would work. I emailed Rick's and trying to find out. Still a pretty penny in anycase. I also noticed that the tank brackets are bolted in...convenient so I can remove the tank from below instead of removing the cab.

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/403589674_zps713ae25a.jpg

[chevynut]

Ryan, this chassis we built has a Rick's tank. It clears the swaybar nicely in that position. You can see how it fits....but it's expensive. If he can get $1200 for just a gas tank, my frames are too cheap!!!! :) :)

2181218221832184

I think I can recommend a tank that's less than half of the cost of Rick's, but it looks more like a stock tank. The straps would have to be modified as well as the filler tube. It's available in either 16 or 18 gallons.

[NickP]

Ryan, this chassis we built has a Rick's tank. It clears the swaybar nicely in that position. You can see how it fits....but it's expensive. If he can get $1200 for just a gas tank, my frames are too cheap!!!! :) :)

2181218221832184

I think I can recommend a tank that's less than half of the cost of Rick's, but it looks more like a stock tank. The straps would have to be modified as well as the filler tube. It's available in either 16 or 18 gallons.

Laszlo how far back (years) is that chassis? I know it's a Rick's tank but the mounts look nothing like that now. The last two out of here had four (4) tabs rather than that long tab.

[chevynut]

Nick, that frame was finished in April 2010. The tank was probably bought in 2011. It's my understanding that Ricks will configure the mounts the way you want them to be. Either way, I think the tank itself is probably the same. I wanted to show how it fit with the swaybar.

[NickP]

Thanks for the info. More than anything, I was lured in by the CPP tank's 1) cost, 2) frame mount and location (spare tire well intact). I knew the stock tank would need to be replaced but there is not much info on which tanks do work. All I have found in my searching is a Rick's tank that would work, which I may end up doing. They have a 16 gal and a 22gal for a trifive and I am not exactly sure which is the one that fits (Assuming the 16gal, but maybe both) The only reason why I know at least one of the Rick's tank works is because of NCW's photo as attached (I hope he & client doesn't mind). The rear sway isn't installed, but the attachments are on there so I assume it would work. I emailed Rick's and trying to find out. Still a pretty penny in anycase. I also noticed that the tank brackets are bolted in...convenient so I can remove the tank from below instead of removing the cab.

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/403589674_zps713ae25a.jpg

The rear anti-roll (AKA Sway) bar does clear as mentioned elsewhere. The provided tabs (4) have provisions as you noted to be bolted in. I have welded tabs in also. With welded tabs, simply disconnect the four bolts, move the fuel line out of harms way, disconnect wire connection for sender and pump and slide forward 2" and down it comes.

[chevynut]

Nick, can you move the tank 2" forward with the swaybar still bolted in?

[hurddawg]

My 2002 LS1 engine needs no return line coming from the engine compartment. All it needs is one 3/8 inch diameter fuel line from the tank to the engine.

However, outside the tank, and somwhere near where you mount the tank, you'll need to plumb in a fuel regulator. So you have 2 lines coming from the tank to the regulator (supply and return), and then the one supply line going forward from the regulator to the engine bay.

My setup involves using an aftermarket made tank with an "in tank pump". It's 16 gallons I think. I wish I could have found a larger one, but didnt' want to spend the money for a custom made tank.

You can also go with a tank that uses an external pump, but guys have found those to burn up quickly, AND when there's no baffles inside the tank, you end up with fuel starvation issues when cornering with less than 1/4 tank of fuel.

So look for a tank that has internal baffles, in-tank pump, and fits between your framerails and you're good to go with a later LS engine.

Here's how I did mine...
2169

And I fabricated a bolt-in tank mount to center the tank between the frame rails, and position it up high (since a wagon has alot of space below the floor).
2170

Thanks for the input. Good point about late model LS with the returnless system. Your tank looks like a modified stock unit...where did you get yours? Taking the advice on the baffles, Rick's tank do have the baffle and the pump is internal. I've also ready the eternal pumps tend to be noisier as well

[NickP]

Nick, that frame was finished in April 2010. The tank was probably bought in 2011. It's my understanding that Ricks will configure the mounts the way you want them to be. Either way, I think the tank itself is probably the same. I wanted to show how it fit with the swaybar.

You are spot on regarding Hector building the tank as requested, just remember to request a different system or what was pictured is what you will get. BTY, my last conversation with Hector indicated they have some neat new stuff going on with regards to the pump.

[NickP]

Nick, can you move the tank 2" forward with the swaybar still bolted in?

It's close! Just barely clears, gotta lift the back just a pinch.

[hurddawg]

Ryan, this chassis we built has a Rick's tank. It clears the swaybar nicely in that position. You can see how it fits....but it's expensive. If he can get $1200 for just a gas tank, my frames are too cheap!!!! :) :)

2181218221832184

I think I can recommend a tank that's less than half of the cost of Rick's, but it looks more like a stock tank. The straps would have to be modified as well as the filler tube. It's available in either 16 or 18 gallons.

Hector from Rick's got back said its 22gal and price was just under $1400, but free shipping today only. Slick looking tank though. Could you elaborate on your recommendation?

[hurddawg]

The rear anti-roll (AKA Sway) bar does clear as mentioned elsewhere. The provided tabs (4) have provisions as you noted to be bolted in. I have welded tabs in also. With welded tabs, simply disconnect the four bolts, move the fuel line out of harms way, disconnect wire connection for sender and pump and slide forward 2" and down it comes.

Thanks for confirming that Nick!

[Johnmc]

Ryan
Always glad to see another 4 door hardtop owner.
I will be watching your progress with interest.
Mine is about 95% complete but time out for a new hip.
JohnMc

[hurddawg]

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/IMG_0691_zps47b7459c.jpg

The motor is about ready to be pulled. Linkages are disconnected, fluids drained and front mounts are unbolted. The driveshaft & tunnel mounts are all the remain holding the motor in there...with luck should have it pulled today.

Maybe with luck I can pull the body off this weekend too....at least this location I'm at has a lift, it would make it quite a bit easier...we'll see:cool:

[hurddawg]

Ryan
Always glad to see another 4 door hardtop owner.
I will be watching your progress with interest.
Mine is about 95% complete but time out for a new hip.
JohnMc

Thanks John! I'll keep it up as much as I can.

[NickP]

If that battery is any good, you might want to get it off the floor and on top of a piece of wood.

[hurddawg]

Got a lot done today! Drivetrain pulled, emergency brake cable disconnected, fuel tank disconnected, rear lamp wire removed and exhaust has been removed. Car is on the lift currently and I hope to remove the steering column, rear shocks and the body bolts tomorrow. I have pics, but I do not have them uploaded, so thats for tomorrow!

Plan to get cracken' on the car at the crack of dawn tomorrow.

Do you all recommend to have the tank removed from the body at this juncture?

[hurddawg]

If that battery is any good, you might want to get it off the floor and on top of a piece of wood.

Yes sir! Although I have a feeling by the time I get back on the road, it may not be...!

[chevynut]

If that battery is any good, you might want to get it off the floor and on top of a piece of wood.

Why is that Nick? What harm can it do to a battery to keep it on the floor?

[NickP]

Old habit on old technology regarding lead acid batteries.

"You see, the myth that concrete drains batteries does have some historical basis. Many, many years ago, wooden battery cases encased a glass jar with the battery inside. Any moisture on the floor could cause the wood to swell and possibly fracture the glass, causing it to leak. Later came the introduction of the hard rubber cases, which were somewhat porous and had a high-carbon content. An electrical current could be conducted through this container if the moist concrete floor permitted the current to find an electrical ground. The wise advice of the old days to "keep batteries off concrete" has been passed down to us today, but it no longer applies because of the advanced technology of today’s batteries."

[WagonCrazy]

Hurd,
I got my tank setup from Tanks Inc..
570-CG. 57 chevy gas tank with fuel injection tray and recess $210.00
567-STS. 57 chevy stainless steel mounting straps $29.00
GPA-4. High flow fuel pump module. 255 liters per hour (for up to 600 horsepower) $220.00
TAN-GME. GM fuel tamk sending unit 0-30 ohms. $35.00

So for $556 and change, i have the tank and pump setup. Of course, the custom made frame mounted bracket, stainless hardlines, AN fittings etc. make this total go up, but all in all it seems to be a viable solution to keep the cost minimized in this area of your build.

[chevynut]

Ryan, we just got back from a weekend of elk scouting. I would remove the tank at this point, if you haven't already, because it's going to have to come out anyhow.

I'll e-mail you some info on the tanks.

[hurddawg]

First thing I did on Saturday was tackle the drivetrain....I need to remove the drive shaft & exhaust. Quickest way to remove exhaust...

Mr. Sawzall, please meet Mr. Exhaust....(sorry pic is upside down)
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/IMG_0692_zps09cf61d3.jpg

Once that was out of the way, I disconnected the transmission mounts from the powerglide and proceed to remove the motor.
The 283 came out without much fuss, although halfway out, I realized I had forgotten to disconnect the starter motor, which was taken care of easily. Here is the drivetrain...Forklifts & pallets are handy!!

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/IMG_0693_zpsc24e5965.jpg

I think its time to put this setup in retirement....its been powering the car for the past 30 years...(from what I understand)

I decided to pull the rear bumper and then I packed it up for the day (It was just before 10:00pm)

This how the car sat on the end of 8/3

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/IMG_0694_zpsad3e5b6f.jpg

Good night!

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/IMG_0696_zps4a65ecbf.jpg

[hurddawg]

I've been a busy bee. Here is what I did on the 4th...I woke up very early (for me), and started working on the car by 6am.

After the motor was removed, I tackled the steering. I removed the column, that was a new experience. I disconnected the outside clamps (2) and removed the bracing on the inside, removed parts of the brake pedal and finally removed the steering wheel. Most if not all of the top column bearings's bearing popped out. Needed a good yank and then the column slid off as one unit.

Unbolted the steering box, (didnt realize for a while that it was held in by carriage bolts, which had backed out so the bolts we just spinning...the grease had it filled in the depressions on the frame. Once I figured that out out they came) . The steering box arm's castle nut was not tight at all, the cotter pins was all holding it together. Then out she came...!

Lastly I disconnected the treadle vac, which was very straight forward. On to the body bolts...was fairly easy, but 3 bolts had broken. The tail pan bolts I had a hard time with, mostly because what used to be rubber caps became hard plastic...it does that after 56 years....

A rather uneventfully, the body lifted off. The rear lift arms was set up under the last body brace and either side, the front arms with approx 2ft 2x4s on the rockers, up to the pinch seam. No perceived bending & the glass didn't crack, which I was prepared for.

By 9:30 this is where I was at....

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/IMG_0700_zps32a0f54f.jpg

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/IMG_0702_zps0d340199.jpg

Here is a cart that I had made. To be honest, the casters are too small. Took a couple of hours. This was the first revision of the cart in the photo, I later added 2 - 6" deck screws to each area where the 2x4 connect to each 4x4 post. In addition, I added a couple of 2x4s upright as posts to support the rear end of the body better. The posts are to support the shock mount area of the differential depression (the cart looks like it has bunny ears). I also added additional 2x4 support on the front of the cart to better support the front braces.

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/IMG_0706_zps1143c435.jpg

Here is a photo of the body on the cart..yes the car body wise is fully assembled. I think I like this frame better than the old one. Maybe I should add engine mounts and call it a day! lol

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/IMG_0707_zpsc176d8e9.jpg

For those looking at this thread, let it be known, I DO NOT recommend this wooden cart. At least in its current form. If I did it again I would have another center support beam and definitely larger castors. Dimensionally it worked great. It is the largest it could be without impeding on the lift arms. Another thought would be to design it in such a fashion so that it can attach to the cart by use of the body bolts/attachments.

Its now stored, not where I wanted but in doors and safe. I'll probably move the cab again at a later date.

I finished the day by cleaning up & putting all removed parts in order and in place they could not be damaged. I called it quits by 18:30...long day...

Next step....stripping down the frame.

[hurddawg]

Hurd,
I got my tank setup from Tanks Inc..
570-CG. 57 chevy gas tank with fuel injection tray and recess $210.00
567-STS. 57 chevy stainless steel mounting straps $29.00
GPA-4. High flow fuel pump module. 255 liters per hour (for up to 600 horsepower) $220.00
TAN-GME. GM fuel tamk sending unit 0-30 ohms. $35.00

So for $556 and change, i have the tank and pump setup. Of course, the custom made frame mounted bracket, stainless hardlines, AN fittings etc. make this total go up, but all in all it seems to be a viable solution to keep the cost minimized in this area of your build.

Thanks for the info, Paul. Only if I knew how to weld. I do have a welder though....

[hurddawg]

Ryan, we just got back from a weekend of elk scouting. I would remove the tank at this point, if you haven't already, because it's going to have to come out anyhow.

I'll e-mail you some info on the tanks.

Hope you had a promising trip. I'll go ahead and remove the tank. I was tired/lazy yesterday to do so. I'll look out for your email.

[hurddawg]

Here's another photo when I was lifting the frame...

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/IMG_0699_zps42fcfab4.jpg

I changed how I was lifting at some point. I do not remember when however.
BTW the door is not closed all the way, hence its "popped" out.

[chevynut]

Wow Ryan, that was quick once you got the engine out. IMO I would have put the 2x4 under the body, not on the rocker. I'm amazed it didn't bend it. I would never try that on a 2-door car, because I'll bet the quarter would bend. Looks like you had enough structure there to prevent that.

Nice work!

[hurddawg]

Wow Ryan, that was quick once you got the engine out. IMO I would have put the 2x4 under the body, not on the rocker. I'm amazed it didn't bend it. I would never try that on a 2-door car, because I'll bet the quarter would bend. Looks like you had enough structure there to prevent that.

Nice work!

Thanks!

As far as the 2x4 on the rocker...I felt comfortable with that as I saw a youtube video of a 56 post 4dr lifted that way.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=JMqsDfPyF24#at=47

Since my car is a hardtop, I guess I was gambling a bit. As you see in the video, they didnt use a 2x4 at all.

I hope to finish the frame off this week. I was still recovering from Sunday's work, so I didnt do anything yesterday.

[hurddawg]

Been lazy most of the week and well I was close to done as far as stripping the frame so I waited until Friday after work.

Didnt stay too long, but enough to remove the rear suspension assembly and the remaining parts of the power steering gear. Had a hell of a time removing the power steering power rod (?) bracket from the frame. So much sludge built up IN the frame that I couldnt get to the bolt heads to undo the nuts. I gave up on that for Friday

This is where I left it as of Friday...

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/IMG_0709_zpsa703b024.jpg

[hurddawg]

Finished off the stripping of the frame....

Got that stupid power steering bracket off without destroying it. Took more time than I would have liked though.
Front suspension, fuel lines, brake lines and exhaust hangers were removed. Scrapped off some of the 1" thick grease on the front...still plenty left.

Noticed that 2 of the "outer" rear body mounts have decayed quite a bit, the bottoms have rotted some pin holes

All done....
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/IMG_0712_zps57eb9524.jpg
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/IMG_0714_zpsbfbbb0f3.jpg
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/IMG_0713_zpsdcca9a5e.jpg

ChevyNut, its your turn! :)

Should I power wash this before giving it to you?

[chevynut]

Ryan, looking good. That was pretty quick, and you got it done a week early. :)

You mentioned the rear outside body mounts are decayed. Do you have some pics of them? Which ones are they? We can do some repairs on them if you want us to...we can discuss that later.

Power washing would be nice if you can do that just to get rid of the grease and grime for handling it. We will sandblast some areas of the frame where we need to weld on it.

[56-210Sedan]

Something that works well for grease removal is ordinary oven cleaner, let it sit for 30 minutes or so then power wash it.

[hurddawg]

I dont have great photos with me... here is the underside. The light spot in the center is the largest hole. I went around with a hammer and these two mounts sound way different and tinny.

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/IMG_0716_zpsf4478fb4.jpg

Here is the largest piece of rust scale that was inside that mount.

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/IMG_0717_zpsca5b980f.jpg

Its hard to explain where they are. Its the ones that are on the outside of the frame that are triangle shaped. In the photo from the back of the frame, it is the first set of outter body mounts. Each (left&right) on this "row" are the same condition. I think the front ones are fine, I think this is because it received plenty of oil from the powersteering/transmission as they both leaked a ton. You can tell the "bad" ones are dry dirt/rust patina colored ones. Not surprisingly, both bolts broke off in these mounts.

[hurddawg]

Well frame was picked up on 8/21 by Laszlo :) Great meeting you! Look forward to getting the frame back !!

[WagonCrazy]

Well frame was picked up on 8/21 by Laszlo

Picking your from up from you?
Laszlo...you didn't offer to come to SoCal to pick up my frame. :x

[chevynut]

Paul, if I remember correctly I picked up your frame at a local salvage yard. :)

I'm currently laying in bed in a motel in Billings, Montana, on the way back home. I have been wanting to go visit my brother in SW montana for a couple of years. I figured when I did that, I could pick up a frame I found in Billings. Then I thought it would be nice to go to Goodguys in Spokane while I was so close, and hoped to see Marty in the process. My GF has two sisters in the Seattle area that she wanted to visit, and Ryan just happened to want a frame built at an opportune time. So I put it all together...went to see my brother in Montana, went to Goodguys in Spokane, went to see my GF's sisters in Seattle, picked up the frame from Ryan's workplace in Tacoma, made a quick trip down to see Sid in Kelso for an afternoon, and on the way back through Spokane I picked up another frame that a friend of Marty's wants to have converted to a C4 suspension. We spent another couple days with my brother back in Montana, then left for the trip back and picked up the last frame here in Billings. We're planning to be back home tomorrow and it will be an 11-day trip. I've had internet access only off and on while traveling.

It's been a great trip. Met a lot of great people, saw some beautiful country, ate a lot of good food and drank a lot of beer. I talked to several guys at Goodguys who might be future frame customers too. So I guess I did a lot of business stuff so I get to write off the trip expenses. :)

[chevynut]

Forgot to mention that I also stopped to see Hotroddder and Ryan came by too. They both live in Auburn, and had never met before. We had a beer and checked out his projects, including yet another 56 Nomad he's working on. :)

[chevynut]

Here's Ryan's 4DHT frame after I got it unloaded from my trailer today. I'll post some pics of the conversion as we go. Since hunting season is coming, this one will take longer than normal and we have to finish one that's in the jig before we can put Ryan's in it.

The first step will be to cut off the front clip and remove all of the stock mounts that we don't use, then sandblast the weld areas. I'll also be prepping a late C4 k-member for the build.

23382339

[hurddawg]

Not too much has progressed over the few months. In the meantime, as recommended by some fellow trifivers, I sold off some of my other projects/fun cars so I can concentrate on this car and extra cash for parts. However I thought I would update this thread as I purchased some items on Black Friday...but these days its seems to be Black Thursday! These items I had planned to buy a while back but didnt as I knew I wasnt going to use them for a while and waited until a better deal presented itself.

Some Black Friday goodies...Brake lines are up next! :) Not shown is a set of parking brake cables too.

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/IMG_0978_zps77cf2c04.jpg (http://s265.photobucket.com/user/hurddawg/media/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/IMG_0978_zps77cf2c04.jpg.html)

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/IMG_0977_zps4250a3f7.jpg (http://s265.photobucket.com/user/hurddawg/media/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/IMG_0977_zps4250a3f7.jpg.html)

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/IMG_0976_zps6e31949c.jpg (http://s265.photobucket.com/user/hurddawg/media/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/IMG_0976_zps6e31949c.jpg.html)

I also order a replacement Lokar brake pedal, but it is on back order. Should ship soon. I plan on giving the cable shift kit a shot. My plan was to custom order a custom length column from Ididit closer to the stock length in order to use the kit. Although a bit more expensive route, I figured this would work as I planned to use the C4 R&P. If I read everything correctly, the standard length Ididit column won't work with the Lokar Cable shift since its too short and the columns are made to work with the upgraded steering boxes such as the CPP units. Therefore a longer length Ididit would work. If this isnt sound thinking, feel free to chime in...

[chevynut]

Hey Ryan, good to hear from you! Looks like you got some goodies.

The longer steering column should actually make clearing your exhaust easier with the C4 rack and linkage. I used the longest column Flaming River has to make it work out.

I have your frame cut up and sandblasted. We are building a clip right now on another frame, and we will be putting yours in the frame jig soon. We got delayed with my hunting trips in September, but then really got delayed with the flooding here. My son is a lineman and power lines got taken out all over between here and Estes Park. The canyon was impassable from September until late November when they finally got the roads fixed enough that you can drive up. My son had been working 30-40 hours of overtime a week, and couldn't come help me with the frames. But we're back to normal now.

[hurddawg]

Great to hear from you as well! Thanks for the input on the column appreciate it. No worries on the delay!

[hurddawg]

Quick update ---

The time has come to pick up the frame and bring it home. See ya tomorrow Marty!

[56-210Sedan]

Hey Ryan, It was great to meet you and get a chance to chat with you, hopefully we can meet up again maybe at Puyallup good guys and have more to time to talk. I wish you a safe travel back home and happy 4th of July.

Also it was good to see Bill able to make it as well so you two could go over your frame builds a little.

[hurddawg]

Hey Ryan, It was great to meet you and get a chance to chat with you, hopefully we can meet up again maybe at Puyallup good guys and have more to time to talk. I wish you a safe travel back home and happy 4th of July.

Also it was good to see Bill able to make it as well so you two could go over your frame builds a little.

Hey Marty, it was great to meet you and see your cars. Thank you very much for taking care of my frame and making room to store it at your place until I picked it up :) Travel back to home was not bad at all as traffic was extremely light, so it made the trip easy.

It was also great to meet Bill, but I wish I had a little bit more time to talk. I didn't realize he had his frame with him until he left :(

[chevynut]

Hi Ryan, good to hear you got your frame. Hope you got your suspensions and box of parts too. ;) If you have any questions with assembly or anything else, please don't hesitate to call me.

[hurddawg]

After work on the 3rd, I left late and headed out for Moses Lake, WA which is roughly a halfway point to Marty's. By leaving late I missed all the heavy holiday traffic, so it made for an easy - better mileage - trip. I made it to Moses Lake around 10:30pm but I stopped for dinner & drove slow to conserve gas.

Left Moses Lake about 8:30am on the 4th and headed out to Spokane which is a little bit more than 2hrs but made it to Marty's by 11:00am. Marty and Bill all helped loading the frame. IMO it was a very fitting day to pick up the frame.

Here's all the stuff piled into the back of the truck.
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/C4%20Frame/IMG_1855_zps44b23341.jpg (http://s265.photobucket.com/user/hurddawg/media/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/C4%20Frame/IMG_1855_zps44b23341.jpg.html)

Here are the casting nos for the D36 I got from Laszlo. I assume the stamp is the production date and its hard to see, but the rear end is engraved 3.07.
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/C4%20Frame/88efd4a0-4c70-43bf-a6c1-a0bb6e5292b1_zpsd1596027.jpg (http://s265.photobucket.com/user/hurddawg/media/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/C4%20Frame/88efd4a0-4c70-43bf-a6c1-a0bb6e5292b1_zpsd1596027.jpg.html)

CED trans crossmember with adjustable positions.
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/C4%20Frame/IMG_1857_zps4a7ca666.jpg (http://s265.photobucket.com/user/hurddawg/media/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/C4%20Frame/IMG_1857_zps4a7ca666.jpg.html)

Some shots of the front end.
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/C4%20Frame/IMG_1859_zpsa4900b52.jpg (http://s265.photobucket.com/user/hurddawg/media/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/C4%20Frame/IMG_1859_zpsa4900b52.jpg.html)

Front end is from a 88-90 C4. This type saves you a bit of money as the 91-96 front wheel bearings is almost double the price. Thanks Laszlo! You can tell the different is due to the ABS sensor location. The sensor is located in the spindle on 84-90, where as it is built into the wheel bearing/hub assembly on 91-96 cars.
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/C4%20Frame/IMG_1866_zpsf1679300.jpg (http://s265.photobucket.com/user/hurddawg/media/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/C4%20Frame/IMG_1866_zpsf1679300.jpg.html)

I'm not a welder, but these welds look good.
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/C4%20Frame/IMG_1856_zps83508a3e.jpg (http://s265.photobucket.com/user/hurddawg/media/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/C4%20Frame/IMG_1856_zps83508a3e.jpg.html)

[hurddawg]

Here are photos of the frame that Laszlo took for me while he was working on the frame.

Body Mount repair
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/C4%20Frame/BodyMount_zpsa82fa411.jpg (http://s265.photobucket.com/user/hurddawg/media/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/C4%20Frame/BodyMount_zpsa82fa411.jpg.html)

Finished
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/C4%20Frame/BodyMountrepaired_zps15150849.jpg (http://s265.photobucket.com/user/hurddawg/media/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/C4%20Frame/BodyMountrepaired_zps15150849.jpg.html)

Frame Dent
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/C4%20Frame/Dent_zps42be1925.jpg (http://s265.photobucket.com/user/hurddawg/media/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/C4%20Frame/Dent_zps42be1925.jpg.html)

Repaired
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/C4%20Frame/DentRepair_zps6a46dc75.jpg (http://s265.photobucket.com/user/hurddawg/media/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/C4%20Frame/DentRepair_zps6a46dc75.jpg.html)

Another dent
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/C4%20Frame/Before_zps03330bd6.jpg (http://s265.photobucket.com/user/hurddawg/media/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/C4%20Frame/Before_zps03330bd6.jpg.html)

Repaired
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/C4%20Frame/Repair_zpsa2cab3d3.jpg (http://s265.photobucket.com/user/hurddawg/media/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/C4%20Frame/Repair_zpsa2cab3d3.jpg.html)

Front Clip
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/C4%20Frame/Frontclip_zps993b5248.jpg (http://s265.photobucket.com/user/hurddawg/media/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/C4%20Frame/Frontclip_zps993b5248.jpg.html)

Rear End fitted. IIRC this is a D44 test fitting in. I could be wrong though
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/C4%20Frame/RearEnd_zpsf0603a9d.jpg (http://s265.photobucket.com/user/hurddawg/media/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/C4%20Frame/RearEnd_zpsf0603a9d.jpg.html)

Mock SBC
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/C4%20Frame/MockEngine_zpsaf44f039.jpg (http://s265.photobucket.com/user/hurddawg/media/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/C4%20Frame/MockEngine_zpsaf44f039.jpg.html)

Final Product at Laszlo's Shop...D44 in it.

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/C4%20Frame/20140504_007_zpsb1b863d2.jpg (http://s265.photobucket.com/user/hurddawg/media/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/C4%20Frame/20140504_007_zpsb1b863d2.jpg.html)
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/C4%20Frame/20140504_004_zpsce79ce52.jpg (http://s265.photobucket.com/user/hurddawg/media/1957%20Bel%20Air%204%20door%20Hard%20top/C4%20Frame/20140504_004_zpsce79ce52.jpg.html)

Very happy with Laszlo's work!! Everything looks great and he was very flexible and helpful. Laszlo is very willing to customize your set up for your needs, which is awesome. As you can see he is willing to fix up your frame as requested. CED also clean up/patched any unneeded holes, removed brackets, etc. I think there is a lot of bang for the buck in CED's service. :)

[hurddawg]

Hi Ryan, good to hear you got your frame. Hope you got your suspensions and box of parts too. ;) If you have any questions with assembly or anything else, please don't hesitate to call me.

Hi Laszlo,

Thanks for everything! I did get the box of parts from Marty. I'm sure I'll have some questions as I go along. I'll keep in touch :)

[chevynut]

Front end is from a 88-90 C4. This type saves you a bit of money as the 91-96 front wheel bearings is almost double the price. Thanks Laszlo! You can tell the different is due to the ABS sensor location. The sensor is located in the spindle on 84-90, where as it is built into the wheel bearing/hub assembly on 91-96 cars.


Ryan, since you don't care about the ABS sensor you can use any year front hub/bearings. ABS became available on C4s in 1986 so the 85 front hubs without the reluctor wheel may be the least expensive.

[hurddawg]

Cool. Thanks for the info. I just checked prices on the pre-86 cars, but seems the aftermarket manufacturers just add the reluctor on there anyway.

[hurddawg]

Been a while since I updated this thread....mostly because I really haven't had anything to update lol
But about a year after the last post I purchased one of Rick's gas tank. Then sold my home, moved (in 2016), did this that and the other thing and haven't worked on it at all. Every once in a while I've looked at the frame to remind me. If anyone subscribes to Super Chevy, the March 2018 issue's "reincarnation" 57 has rekindled my need to get started again. Hopefully in a few months I'll get my ducks in a row to get some work done on it.

[WagonCrazy]

Good to hear from you Dawg! Don't lose hope...keep looking at it and eventually you will get the mojo to get back at it.
My Nomad project is not on the road yet, but I'm working at it slowly and steadily now.
You can do it!

[chevynut]

Keep at it Ryan! Try to do a little on it every day and keep moving. I've been at mine about 5 times as long as I thought it would take me, but it's getting close. Firing up the 502 last fall was a burst of encouragement....after I figured out that the coolant leaks were NOT the head gaskets. :eek: I forgot to tighten the plugs in the heads. :)

Post some progress pics as you go.

[hurddawg]

Thanks for the words of encouragement guys :)

Hopefully I'll be back at it soon!

Laszlo - I bet that was a sigh of relief once you found out it was just a couple plugs that needed tightening!!

[boybowser]

I just registered on this site and found this thread, I know it is quite old so good chance I wont see a response but if the original poster hurddawg is still around I would like to discuss this project, I am in the midst of an almost identical restoration of a 1957 4dr HT fully equipped from factory an Atlanta car so much has had to be done to correct environmental damage over the years, some of the original locations are gone. Any how if you are still around and have pictures please respond or PM me. Thanks

[hurddawg]

I just registered on this site and found this thread, I know it is quite old so good chance I wont see a response but if the original poster hurddawg is still around I would like to discuss this project, I am in the midst of an almost identical restoration of a 1957 4dr HT fully equipped from factory an Atlanta car so much has had to be done to correct environmental damage over the years, some of the original locations are gone. Any how if you are still around and have pictures please respond or PM me. Thanks

I'll try to help you with what I can. I don't have very good access to the body since I put it in a shipping container about a year ago. Might take some time but I'll do want I can for you.

Ryan

[NickP]

I'll try to help you with what I can. I don't have very good access to the body since I put it in a shipping container about a year ago. Might take some time but I'll do want I can for you.

Ryan

Hey Ryan, your Toe Adjuster will be ready by Friday.

[hurddawg]

Today I had the frame sand blasted to give myself a clean frame to work on. Next step is to fit the suspension on :)

[hurddawg]

Pictures

http://www.ryans-wicked-ss.com/images/pictures/1957_4dht/frame/blasted frame 1.jpg
http://www.ryans-wicked-ss.com/images/pictures/1957_4dht/frame/blasted frame 2.jpg
http://www.ryans-wicked-ss.com/images/pictures/1957_4dht/frame/blasted frame 3.jpg
http://www.ryans-wicked-ss.com/images/pictures/1957_4dht/frame/blasted frame 4.jpg

[hurddawg]

http://www.ryans-wicked-ss.com/images/pictures/1957_4dht/frame/frame set up 1.jpg
http://www.ryans-wicked-ss.com/images/pictures/1957_4dht/frame/frame set up 2.jpg

should give me enough room to work :)

[NickP]

Looks great!

[hurddawg]

Rear toe control rods showed up today! Thank you Nick, they look fantastic :)

8379

Another step closer!

[hurddawg]

For the most part I wrapped up the projects I had going on and so I can focus more time on this project. Although with Trout/Salmon fishing starting up soon it might be difficult though lol.

So I in the past few weeks I've been selling off some of the stock components I did not need anymore and taking up space, original diff, tires wheels, brake kit I bought originally before going head in, etc. So that freed up some additional cash to buy some brake/fuel line parts and exhaust parts. Engine has been decided for most part. My Dad is a SBC fan and out of the blown up bits of his previous engine(s) we managed to put together a 383. We sent the heads out (Edelbrock E-Tecs) for clean up and valve work, but one head may have to be replaced. Although engine stuff is a bit early imo, he is excited about it and wanted to start on it so I am buying/bought stuff for that.

I bought ridetech front coil overs couple of weeks ago (sale at Jegs) and last weekend thought I could install the front suspension on for mock up. Ends up the ridetech top hat interferes with the frame. Couple of days ago I learned the Ridetech offers (at additional cost) 1" drop top hats so I'll try that and see if it give up enough space. Other wise I will need to give up on the lower Ridetech mount and use a trunnion where the C4 dampers attach. The Ridetech lower attachment bracket locates the coilover lower mount in the webbing area where the stock spring rests.

Since the front suspension mock up didn't go so well (due to selected parts), with some help from a friend we got the rear suspension hung on the batwing. excuse the mess! I'll probably tackle the front suspension this weekend as the new top hats should arrive by then.

8709

[WagonCrazy]

Lookin' good man. Keep at it.

[chevynut]

Same problem with the QA1 standard top spring seats but the tall ones work great. Looks good so far.

[hurddawg]

Short update. The taller hats showed up, but still no dice. I ordered the Ridetech trunnions the other day, so sometime next week I should have the front suspension on the frame. Since I have holes in the lower control arm from drilling the lower brackets I decided I'd order a replacement.

Feeling a bit defeated with the suspension, I did turn my attention to the brakes. In the past few weeks I had bought a set of C5 brakes (12.8"x1.25") and to get them to work you need an adapter bracket. So I had been working with a friend who had purchased a water jet recently and he turned these out for me....
8732


With some hardware the end result is this:
8733

I still need to powder coat the carrier though. The color is not a spot on match, but close enough to the color I want to paint the car. Which is C6 Atomic Orange, and based on the color samples I've gotten is a notch or 2 brighter than the car's original color of Sierra Gold. So in tune with the restomod theme, the color will get a update too :)

My other mission this weekend is to get the gas tank bolted up.

[hurddawg]

Another bump in the road. The tank i bought from Ricks appears to be the tank for Trifives, BUT a seamless frame. The rear most mounts on the tank and the "junction" where the frame tail piece connects interferes with each other. Time to start practicing TIG welding.

[NickP]

Another bump in the road. The tank i bought from Ricks appears to be the tank for Trifives, BUT a seamless frame. The rear most mounts on the tank and the "junction" where the frame tail piece connects interferes with each other. Time to start practicing TIG welding.

Picture of the mount issue?

[hurddawg]

Sorry no pictures of my actual parts, but using photos on the web already...




http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/hurddawg/403589674_zps713ae25a.jpg

So here is a photo of one, in the frame you did Nick. The tabs on my tank are like this and the brackets.

In the following link from the 'other' forum, here is a guy installing a Ricks in his 2 pc frame and is how my frame looks.

https://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=119712&page=5

I emailed Hector at Ricks to see if he'll sell me a couple of SS tabs for the rear. Thinking now I'll need the frame side brackets too.

[NickP]

Sorry no pictures of my actual parts, but using photos on the web already...



So here is a photo of one, in the frame you did Nick. The tabs on my tank are like this and the brackets.

In the following link from the 'other' forum, here is a guy installing a Ricks in his 2 pc frame and is how my frame looks.

https://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=119712&page=5

I emailed Hector at Ricks to see if he'll sell me a couple of SS tabs for the rear. Thinking now I'll need the frame side brackets too.

So, you need brackets? I apologize for not following you. Don't buy brackets, I have a set somewhere I'll give you if that's what you need. Tabs? You mean the Stainless ones. I don't have them. What tank do you have? Is yours like the one depicted in my chassis or like the one in the link?

[chevynut]

Nick, the problem is that the 2-piece frames have a rounded corner and the rear SIDE brackets won't fit there at the location they put the rear tabs on the tank. I think the welded rear tabs on the tank interfere with the frame and IMO they should have put them further forward or on the rear of the tank as shown in the pic below. For the cost of the Rick's tank (~$1500) I think they should put the tabs wherever you want them. I would have put a piece of 1" bent stainless angle on the rear of the tank to slide it back closer to the crossmember.

http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd491/jtmcgraw/56%20BelAir/IMG_1332_zps08eb7c1e.jpg

[TrifiveRichard]

Interesting...the Ricks tank I have looks like the one posted by hurddawg, with all mounting tabs on the sides. My frame is a Morrison unit. I had to cut some off the brackets Ricks supplied, but had enough room to mount the tank.

[hurddawg]

So, you need brackets? I apologize for not following you. Don't buy brackets, I have a set somewhere I'll give you if that's what you need. Tabs? You mean the Stainless ones. I don't have them. What tank do you have? Is yours like the one depicted in my chassis or like the one in the link?

Sorry, my description isn’t all that great, but I’ll get some photos of my actual tank and frame to explain


Nick, the problem is that the 2-piece frames have a rounded corner and the rear SIDE brackets won't fit there at the location they put the rear tabs on the tank. I think the welded rear tabs on the tank interfere with the frame and IMO they should have put them further forward or on the rear of the tank as shown in the pic below. For the cost of the Rick's tank (~$1500) I think they should put the tabs wherever you want them. I would have put a piece of 1" bent stainless angle on the rear of the tank to slide it back closer to the crossmember.

http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd491/jtmcgraw/56%20BelAir/IMG_1332_zps08eb7c1e.jpg

I’m sure they would have moved the brackets if I had asked. I had them modify the fuel supply and return and they did it for no charge. I didn’t know / pay attention to the differences between the 2 frames to let them know. HoweverI would have thought/hoped they would have known/asked if that was the case (do you have a 1 piece frame). Any case, this is part of the hobby. I should have looked at it closer when I originally bought the tank 4-5 years ago.

[NickP]

I don't have any tabs but I do have the four frame brackets. If they would help you out, let me know.

[hurddawg]

I don't have any tabs but I do have the four frame brackets. If they would help you out, let me know.

Hey Nick, thanks for the offer, but I'll be okay without them :)

Although I'm a little disappointed that I never heard back from Ricks Tanks though. Anyway I think what Laszlo mentioned by welding some angle iron on the aft end of the tank, I can scoot the tank further back in the frame allowing for more room around the rear sway bar.

I took a few photos, but not able to upload at the moment....the add from computer bit from the website doesn't appear to be working.

I did get the trunnions in and I was able to fit the the upper and lower control arms. It is not shimmed properly yet but the upper control arm does contact the spring slightly. I'm thinking with some shims in there should fix the problem.

[chevynut]

I did get the trunnions in and I was able to fit the the upper and lower control arms. It is not shimmed properly yet but the upper control arm does contact the spring slightly. I'm thinking with some shims in there should fix the problem.

I believe you will need at least two 1/8" shims at the upper control arms to get close to the camber spec and that will help keep the upper a-arm off the spring. I ran into this issue with QA1 shocks with a 14" extended length. They won't work without the tall upper spring seat. Obviously the longer the shock the worse this is......but it only happens at full extension. If you move the top of the shock inboard, it interferes with the frame. I have plenty of clearance with my Aldan shocks with a bit shorter extended length.

[hurddawg]

Makes sense, the ridetechs I bought are 14.25 basically. I figured after shimming it would work out, as it is really only slightly touching. Thanks for confirming it!

Hopefully this weekend I get the other side bolted up too.

[hurddawg]

Just a little bit at a time. Used a foam block to test fit for the headers. Will bolt up a empty trans case and tail housing once I get a trans apart. I found a burnt out core for $150. After some long thought and insistence from my Dad, decided to part with the TH400 I have and set up a 4L80E instead. With the 80, It leaves an upgrade path without having to change as much if I do decide changing motors after this initial build up (ie BBC) or going with a TCI 6x (which is big money). Which also bought up another subject was the rear end. With the TH400 or 4L80, the first gear is 2.48 which even with the performance D36 axle of 3.07, left 1st gear wimpy. So I'm planning on switching up the rear to 3.73 to help with that.

8800

Goals this week are to bolt up the passenger side suspension, R&P and front sway bar.
Next week I hope to get the 4l80 case bolted to the foam block and bolted on to the trans crossmember.
I am on a holding pattern on the gas tank, need to get some practice time welding before I tackle that one. I did order welding rod already and a piece of 304 angle for rear mounting tabs.

Probably be picking up a column here soon. Probably an Ididit, get it custom ordered to 35" and maybe have the cup cut down a touch.

How much do original P/S set ups go for? Mine is really dirty, but the generator was working along with the P/S pump. Treadlevac too, it was working great is there a market for these original parts?

[chevynut]

Those headers look like they'll work out great. What make and model are they?

On the steering column....I recommend that you NOT order it until you get the body on and mock up the steering with tubes and dowels to see where they intersect. I recommend a Borgeson u-joint at the bottom to the rack, and a Borgeson vibration damping u-joint at the top connecting to the column. Once you mock it all up you can decide the length of the column. I don't know how hard they are to shorten.

[Rick_L]

Reportedly Ididit columns are difficult to shorten, at least relative to Flaming River columns. Don't have details, and I don't know exactly why. Flaming River columns are relatively easy to shorten, I did mine. Column shift would complicate either one enough to definitely recommend not doing it yourself if you could avoid it.

Regardless of the above, the advice give is spot on. You need to have a plan before ordering it. But with R&P, choosing the headers is a huge factor too.

[hurddawg]

Thanks for the advice on the column guys, I'll hold off on buying one until I'm closer and can get the body on.

The headers are Dynatech MuscleMaxx headers for a 70-81 Camaro. I bought them a few years back at Speedway in the garage sale section as these are blemished on the bottom. Only unusual thing about them is that they have a proprietary 4 bolt flange on them, rather than the common 3 bolt.

[chevynut]

Ryan, I'm using a Flaming River 35" column in my Nomad. I've pushed it as far forward as I can inside the car, which I recommend. I think the steering wheel is too close to the driver with any tilt column if you don't do that. Had a friend with a 57 using a tilt column (Ididit I believe) in the stock location and it was WAY too close for me. It may be more of a problem doing that with a 57 but Wade did it on his Nomad by trimming the instrument cluster a little. Looks like your headers should give you flexibility in locating the steering shaft. You'll have to notch the engine mount a little to clear the shaft so try to keep the shaft as high and as near the end of the upper a-arm shaft as you can.

Mine is really tight and I hope I didn't screw myself by re-routing the #5 tube.

8803

8804

[hurddawg]

Thanks for the pics Laszlo! You certainly have a tight fit, mine looks absolutely spacious in comparison! I looked up the borgeson universals you recommended. My eyeballs about popped out at the price. I wanted to be sure before picking them up though, is the C4 rack 17mm DD? I'm assuming its metric, but a search really didnt seem to turn up much.

Being you and Rick have the flaming river columns, I think I might have to go that route too. I'm been torn with the 2 companies (Ididit and flaming river), The flaming river being stainless is a nice feature. I am going to try and see what I can do about getting the column in closer to the dash. I've seen some photos of it being done (maybe it was Wade's) and I'd like to attempt it too.

This weekend I did accomplish most of what I wanted to do and then some.
I did get the passenger side suspension hooked up, along with the coilovers and it went without a hitch. I did get the rack in place as well and can see where Laszlo was talking about notching the engine mount, doesn't look too bad at all. The sway bar is just set in position, I didn't actually get to bolting it to the frame yet.

My Dad and I took apart the core 4L80 on Saturday and had the case and tailshaft housing cleaned/tanked today at the local Transmission shop. So I hope this memorial weekend I will get that bolted up to the foam block and the cross member. Slowly its starting to look like a car!

I had the valve covers in the earlier photos powder coated. I'm very happy with how they turned out.

8814

[hurddawg]

I did a bit on tinkering on the frame over the long weekend.

I have the 4l80 case bolted up to the foam block and Laszlo's adjustable crossmember worked out great. Bolted in with no problems. Thanks Laszlo! I bolted up the passenger side header with no issues and I finally got around to bolting up the dogbones to the frame as well. I also painted the engine block body color yesterday.

Not this week, but probably next week I'll get that gas tank modified and mounted in the frame and I'll start on fuel and brake lines.

[hurddawg]

Didn't do a whole lot, but did finally finish bolting up the front sway bar. I used some prothane mounts/bushings as energy suspension didn't have a 26mm bushing, only 25 and 27mm for universal stuff. The endlinks are really close to the coilovers, so I might need to notch them.

I swapped the 4L80 cases I had as the one I put originally was in better shape of the 2.

With some luck, I might have the fuel tank mounted by next weekend :)

[Custer55]

Thanks for the pics Laszlo! You certainly have a tight fit, mine looks absolutely spacious in comparison! I looked up the borgeson universals you recommended. My eyeballs about popped out at the price. I wanted to be sure before picking them up though, is the C4 rack 17mm DD? I'm assuming its metric, but a search really didnt seem to turn up much.

Being you and Rick have the flaming river columns, I think I might have to go that route too. I'm been torn with the 2 companies (Ididit and flaming river), The flaming river being stainless is a nice feature. I am going to try and see what I can do about getting the column in closer to the dash. I've seen some photos of it being done (maybe it was Wade's) and I'd like to attempt it too.

This weekend I did accomplish most of what I wanted to do and then some.
I did get the passenger side suspension hooked up, along with the coilovers and it went without a hitch. I did get the rack in place as well and can see where Laszlo was talking about notching the engine mount, doesn't look too bad at all. The sway bar is just set in position, I didn't actually get to bolting it to the frame yet.

My Dad and I took apart the core 4L80 on Saturday and had the case and tailshaft housing cleaned/tanked today at the local Transmission shop. So I hope this memorial weekend I will get that bolted up to the foam block and the cross member. Slowly its starting to look like a car!

I had the valve covers in the earlier photos powder coated. I'm very happy with how they turned out.

8814

The C4 rack is a 17mm DD. I used a straight 17mm DD to 3/4" round adapter on mine and then used 3/4" DD universals on the rest of the shafts to the column. Shouldn't be to hard to find a 17mm DD universal.
Brian

[chevynut]

Didn't notice your question about the C4 rack but Custer is right.....17mm DD. Borgeson makes a universal joint for that. I used a 3/4" splined shaft from there to the column but I think a 3/4" DD shaft may be a better choice since you don't have to get the length exact when you order it. That's what I used for the Hemi55. Summit Racing has everything you need for the steering shaft.

Also, the swaybar link should be close to the coilover, but it should clear. The universal bushings shell should be slotted so you can move it forward as far as possible. Worst case you can go to a custom link. I thought I might have to do that but ended up using the stock one.

8846

[hurddawg]

Thanks Custer and Laszlo for confirming the rack size. I didn't mention it, but soon after posting I found the info in the Borgeson Catalog, they have a list of racks in there that they talk about for reference. Low and behold the c4 rack is one of them. I was thinking to use 3/4" DD as it looked easier to fit, as like you said, its cut to fit. I have the borgeson joints and shaft in my wish list. I decided to wait on buying them until I get a bit closer to that stage of the build.

Laszlo, thanks for reminding me on the sway bar mount, they are slotted. I'll try adjusting them to a get a bit more clearance, but making new ones doesn't seem too difficult.

Looks like I have most of what i need to start tig welding this week. My friend recommended to buy a gas lens for my torch and I picked up some 1/16" ceriated tungsten as well. He'll do the fuel tank welding and get me started on my way to TIG welding on my own.

Laszlo, what bushings are in your sway bar?

[chevynut]

Laszlo, what bushings are in your sway bar?

The bottom bushings are stock C4. The stock upper C4 link bushings use a metal shell that you're supposed to keep and put the poly bushings inside of. I decided instead to make some custom poly bushings, sleeves, and stainless spacers. I hope the swaybar doesn't cut through the bushings.....I think that's what the shell is for.

[hurddawg]

It looks great, hopefully it works out like you hope.

[hurddawg]

8975

Last week I finally was able to link up with my buddy that TIG welds. He filled the tank up with Argon and went to town. As he did it he showed me some basics to get me started to welding. Otherwise not much progress otherwise. Hopefully I have a weekend here soon to work on it a bit, but might be a couple weeks until then. But I'm getting close to getting the tank mounted...just need to cut off the rear tabs on the tank and mount it up.

Engine and trans are close, just waiting on some parts for both, Had to get some pushrods as the ones on hand were a bit too long. Waiting on the dipstick for the trans so we can check the depth and put a dummy pan on so I can paint it.

[hurddawg]

Finally got the tank mounted in this morning.
9089

So with that out of the way, I'll start working on the brake and fuel lines. Is there an advantage to start one over the other? Also I was thinking on routing the fuel line on the driver side, rather than the passenger. Any disadvantages to doing it that way?

[55 Rescue Dog]

I routed my fuel line down the passenger side, but since I'm using a LS engine, I should have come up the drivers side. Brake line on the drivers side is the best route, since that is where the pedal is.

[Rick_L]

Run the rear brake line down the outside of the driver side frame rail since you'll have a dual reservoir master cylinder. No need in crossing over to the passenger side then part way back.

If you have an LS or LT1 engine, those have the fuel inlet on the driver side, so running the fuel line down the driver side is the simplest. If you have a carb, then passenger side is the simplest.

[hurddawg]

Thanks for the suggestions, guys :)

Gonna go with what is suggested.

[chevynut]

I ran my dual fuel lines down the outside of the passenger frame rail, and the brake line down the inside of the driver's side frame rail. It might have been easier to run the fuel lines on the other side, but it would have been crowded and it worked out this way. I also added a Wilwood proportioning valve part way back.

9091

9092

[55 Rescue Dog]

I have the same tank, and I still can't believe I paid that much for it!
90939094

[hurddawg]

Thanks for the photos guys! Yeah that tank is whopper as price goes, I hope its worth every penny.

Did a little bit today, pulled out the flaring and tube bender tools my Dad used when he did his Ford. Using the tools I managed to get the rear hardline done. Not the prettiest, but it turned out well enough I'm happy with it. Next I plan to run the line from the T fitting towards the front. Doing some route planning, I ended up removing the original parking brake cable brackets off the frame. I might work on the frame a bit tomorrow.

Summit had a sale recently and so I broke down and ordered rear the coilovers. Summit also had a pretty good price on Vintage Air Evaporator kit so I picked that up too. From buying the front springs, I learned that Ridetech used Hyperco springs, so this time I just ordered Hyperco ones and saved a few bucks that way.

Slowly but surely I'm chipping at it :)

[WagonCrazy]

It's looking great Hurddawg. Stay at it and post more pics as you go.

[hurddawg]

It's looking great Hurddawg. Stay at it and post more pics as you go.

Thanks Paul!

[hurddawg]

Soooo...whats the best way to remove a broken tap? :( Any suggestions for quick removal? I was tapping holes for the hold downs for the brake line and it was history. Biggest issue is probably because I was using a slightly undersized drill bit, rather than the recommended #21 (I'm tapping 10-32). New tap and drill bit on the way.

[BamaNomad]

There is such a tool as a 'broken tap' removal tool... I once had to buy one and use it... If the tap isn't too tightly embedded it will work...

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/broken-tap-screw-extractors/broken-tap-extractor-4-flute-size-1-4-sku952400014-15612-35693.aspx?cm_mmc=cse-_-Itwine-_-shopzilla-_-952-400-014&utm_medium=cse&utm_source=connexity&utm_campaign=itwine&utm_content=952-400-014

You might be able to 'make something that will work if you get four small nail (which fit into the grooves of the tap, but not too tightly), then use pliers and grab all four nails and TURN the tap out (if you're lucky)...

[Rick_L]

Notice that the tap extractors that BamaNomad linked were for various numbers of flutes. A 3 flute tap is stronger than a 4 flute, and 2 flute stronger yet. Consider that with your new tap, as well as the recommended tap drill bit size.

The worst one is a 6-32. A 6-32 tap has the smallest cross section of any tap. I remember an exercise in a hangar at Dallas Love Field years ago in my work where about a dozen of us were tapping 6-32 threads in aluminum. They couldn't find enough taps to replace the broken ones. Good news was the broken taps were easy to remove. Probably not so much with 10-32 in steel.

[hurddawg]

There is such a tool as a 'broken tap' removal tool... I once had to buy one and use it... If the tap isn't too tightly embedded it will work...

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/broken-tap-screw-extractors/broken-tap-extractor-4-flute-size-1-4-sku952400014-15612-35693.aspx?cm_mmc=cse-_-Itwine-_-shopzilla-_-952-400-014&utm_medium=cse&utm_source=connexity&utm_campaign=itwine&utm_content=952-400-014

You might be able to 'make something that will work if you get four small nail (which fit into the grooves of the tap, but not too tightly), then use pliers and grab all four nails and TURN the tap out (if you're lucky)...

Thanks for the link for the tool, I'll give the nail idea a try and if it doesn't work, I'll pick up the tool.


Notice that the tap extractors that BamaNomad linked were for various numbers of flutes. A 3 flute tap is stronger than a 4 flute, and 2 flute stronger yet. Consider that with your new tap, as well as the recommended tap drill bit size.

The worst one is a 6-32. A 6-32 tap has the smallest cross section of any tap. I remember an exercise in a hangar at Dallas Love Field years ago in my work where about a dozen of us were tapping 6-32 threads in aluminum. They couldn't find enough taps to replace the broken ones. Good news was the broken taps were easy to remove. Probably not so much with 10-32 in steel.

Thanks for the info Rick, makes sense about the flutes...never really thought of it until you mentioned it. I'll steer clear of those 6-32 taps;)

[hurddawg]

A little bit more completed. I didnt have a chance to upload the photos, so I can post them, but I have most of the brake line run from the rear to front. Its not quite at the firewall, but within a foot or so.

The broken tap ended up a mess, cost me a bruised knuckle as we ended up using a punch to punch it through. The new tap was a 3 flute and I could tell right away that it was a stronger piece. However I had to redrill in a new location for the hold downs. I'll have to weld those in later.

Even though I was able to run the brake line up near the front, I'm thinking I may redo it. Near the beginning of the last section, the bends were complicated (for me) and I don't know if I like it. After I decided that was the way I was going to route the line and started bending, I realized later that there was an easier way. So I might reconsider what I've done.

[hurddawg]

Man didn't know it has been so long since I last updated this! Since the last post I did start working on the fuel system and got the FPR mounted near the tank using 8an. Then on the output of the FPR I downsized to 6an for the remaining run to the front. But I stopped and didn't work on it for a long while. Couple of weekends ago I ended up starting up on it again and started on the more complex sections of the fuel line run up to the front. In a weekend of cutting, bending and flaring I managed to get the fuel line past the suspension and on the outside of the frame. Unfortunately there was a few redos due to splitting flares, bad bends what have you :(

[hurddawg]

Last weekend I ended up finishing up running the fuel hardline up to the engine area. I haven't leak tested it yet and haven't made the flex line from the hardline to the engine either. I plan to hold off on making the flex line section until later.

So now I'm gearing up to put together the exhaust. I bought most of the parts already...close to 2 years ago. So with some luck this weekend I'll have a better idea of how to route the exhaust and what else I might need.

Separate subject...should I really consider better bracing in the center section of the frame? I was planning on the get go to go without it (the fab looked a bit daunting for me), but I've seen so many frames with AME style one or what have you...What are the drawbacks of not doing it? I realize torsional rigidity is the main 'upgrade' but I guess I'm unsure by increasing the rigidity is it just better suspension mechanics? or more along the lines of possible cracked windshields? torqued door jambs? I guess being a 4DHT I should consider this more of a priority? Any opinions or suggestions welcome:)

I need to get some pics up!

[hurddawg]

1019010191

Took a couple quick shots of what I have completed over the past few weeks. I'm hoping to get some of the exhaust planned out a bit more over the weekend :)

[WagonCrazy]

looking good Ryan. that came out nice.

[56Safari]

Wow! Looking good.... I think Chevynut said he installed an AME center section for someone, if I recall correctly he said it was a little bit of a PITA when it came to doing the exhaust cutouts.. I'm planning to install one in mine, the difference in rigidity between the frame I pulled out from the pontiac vs. the chevy frame I put in is night and day... If I could've made the pontiac frame work with my C4 rear IRS I would have, but the frame was way too wide, and it would be too much work considering I'd have to re-do all the body mounts for the chevy floor.... Wish I could be working on mine, but I'm about to put it in the car hauler in preparation for my move out to Colorado this winter.

[Troy]

Notice that the tap extractors that BamaNomad linked were for various numbers of flutes. A 3 flute tap is stronger than a 4 flute, and 2 flute stronger yet. Consider that with your new tap, as well as the recommended tap drill bit size.

The worst one is a 6-32. A 6-32 tap has the smallest cross section of any tap. I remember an exercise in a hangar at Dallas Love Field years ago in my work where about a dozen of us were tapping 6-32 threads in aluminum. They couldn't find enough taps to replace the broken ones. Good news was the broken taps were easy to remove. Probably not so much with 10-32 in steel.

Wait until you break a 2-56 or an 0-80 tap!! You usually have to dam it up and use "Tap Out" to eat it away!!!! Talk about fun.

[chevynut]

I think Chevynut said he installed an AME center section for someone, if I recall correctly he said it was a little bit of a PITA when it came to doing the exhaust cutouts.. I'm planning to install one in mine, the difference in rigidity between the frame I pulled out from the pontiac vs. the chevy frame I put in is night and day... .... Wish I could be working on mine, but I'm about to put it in the car hauler in preparation for my move out to Colorado this winter.

We've done several of them and if you are interested I can give you some tips on the installation when you're ready for it. We had a heck of a time with the first one but we pretty much have it figured out now. If you don't do it right you can make a big mess of it. Be prepared for around 40-50 hours of work since it's your first time....no kidding. :)

Where are you moving to in Colorado?

[56Safari]

I'm looking at moving to Conifer.. I want to get outside of the city and get some space and build a proper shop... I'm looking at land right now, but I can't do much until I get my house sold.

[chevynut]

I'm looking at moving to Conifer.. I want to get outside of the city and get some space and build a proper shop... I'm looking at land right now, but I can't do much until I get my house sold.

No offense, but that's one of the reasons I'm trying to move to Montana...too damn many people in Colorado!! :D The population has nearly tripled since I graduated from high school and there's way too many east and west coast libtards and prices are soaring. Hope you find an affordable place!!

"The median home value in Conifer is $537,400. Conifer home values have gone up 6.8% over the past year and Zillow predicts they will rise 4.4% within the next year. The median list price per square foot in Conifer is $372, which is higher than the Denver-Aurora-Lakewood Metro (https://www.zillow.com/denver-aurora-lakewood-metro-co_r394530/home-values/) average of $268. The median price of homes currently listed in Conifer is $559,900 while the median price of homes that sold is $586,900. "

[56Safari]

Yeah, my new job is in the southwest corner of downtown Denver so I'm stuck somewhere around there, best job I've ever had though.. I really want to build instead of buy, I'm hoping to find a builder that will build a shell for me and let me finish/sub out the rest, I don't mind taking a 2-3 years to finish a house as long as I have one finished bedroom and bathroom to live in.

[BamaNomad]

.. and the City will probably not allow your utilities to be hooked up until you pass a final inspection... Not like living in the country in TN... :)

[chevynut]

I really want to build instead of buy, I'm hoping to find a builder that will build a shell for me and let me finish/sub out the rest, I don't mind taking a 2-3 years to finish a house as long as I have one finished bedroom and bathroom to live in.

That's pretty much what I did on my place. I bought my 2.3 acre lot and acted as the general contractor, saving me 20% right off the top. I hired an excavator who knew a concrete guy so they completed the basement and foundation for me after I prepped all the gravel and drains in the basement floor. My brother had a good friend who was a builder and he framed it and put the roofing on. I installed all the windows and doors, did all the siding, exterior and interior trim and painting and subbed out pretty much everything else. When I built the first shop I did all the framing, electrical, insulation, and siding and trim. I subbed out the concrete and roof, and drywall. I've also planted around 300 trees and bushes on the place.

I think your big challenge is to find a bank that will fund your construction for 2-3 years and give you a mortgage on an un-finished home. You might want to check to see what it takes to get a certificate of occupancy in Conifer.

[56Safari]

Good to know, I might have to get a little creative to make it all work.... My plan is to finance land and drop a pre-made sea container home on the property to live in short term, and I'm hoping I can get that financed... Then build a permanent structure using my own $$$, refinance and sell off the container home... who knows, maybe I'll find what I've been looking for when the time comes, but so far those are few and far between.

[chevynut]

Good to know, I might have to get a little creative to make it all work.... My plan is to finance land and drop a pre-made sea container home on the property to live in short term, and I'm hoping I can get that financed... Then build a permanent structure using my own $$$, refinance and sell off the container home... who knows, maybe I'll find what I've been looking for when the time comes, but so far those are few and far between.

One reasonable way to do it might be to buy the land and run your utilities, then buy an RV or "tiny home" to live in on the property while you build. RVs are comfortable and are pretty cheap almost everywhere if you buy one used. We just bought a tiny home ( actually a park model RV) in Texas and they're pretty nice. Build your shop first with living quarters above it, then sell the RV. Then build the home when you can. Then you can either rent out the living quarters or leave it for guests. I have a friend who did that on 100 acres in Oregon....he bought the land and built a 5500 square foot shop with a 1500 square foot (really nice!) living quarters on one end of the upper level. His plan was to build a house next to it, but his wife decided to find someone else so he bagged that. He still has a really nice place there. Be sure to check any covenants or any other restrictions on the property before you buy. A container might not fly in Conifer, but I don't know. Good luck and look me up when you get to CO.

[56Safari]

Thanks for the info, will do.... I was tossing around the shop idea with living quarters in my head.... Here in TN and KY we don't really have a whole lot of rules/regulations unless you're in the middle of a metro area. Good to start wrapping my head around these things that I didn't consider might be hurdles..

[567chevys]

1019010191

Took a couple quick shots of what I have completed over the past few weeks. I'm hoping to get some of the exhaust planned out a bit more over the weekend :)

Hi hurddawg,
Thanks for taking your time to post pictures of your Progress ,This is what we need more members to do !!!

Thanks Sid

[hurddawg]

looking good Ryan. that came out nice.


Wow! Looking good.... I think Chevynut said he installed an AME center section for someone, if I recall correctly he said it was a little bit of a PITA when it came to doing the exhaust cutouts.. I'm planning to install one in mine, the difference in rigidity between the frame I pulled out from the pontiac vs. the chevy frame I put in is night and day... If I could've made the pontiac frame work with my C4 rear IRS I would have, but the frame was way too wide, and it would be too much work considering I'd have to re-do all the body mounts for the chevy floor.... Wish I could be working on mine, but I'm about to put it in the car hauler in preparation for my move out to Colorado this winter.


Hi hurddawg,
Thanks for taking your time to post pictures of your Progress ,This is what we need more members to do !!!

Thanks Sid


Thanks for the props guys. @56Safari I'm tempted to add something in as far as a 'stiffener' as the time would be now. Still thinking about it.

I have a basic plan worked out for the exhaust. Its amazing how much space you think you have and then when you parts together space runs out quick!:shock: Hopefully I'll be cutting some of the parts and fitting them next weekend.