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slowfinger
07-08-2014, 10:37 AM
Guys, What are you using for pin holes? We have a few after sand blasting our 56. Does All Metal by usg work well? or would fiberglass be better. The reason I ask is there are some small holes where it wouldn't be apropreit to replace whole piece. Such as where the rear fender meets the C piller. Any ideas could help. Geo.

chevynut
07-08-2014, 11:09 AM
I personally wouldn't cover pinholes with anything. I would cut out the affected metal and replace it with good metal. IMO anything else is just shoddy workmanship.

If it rusted out there before, it will do it again unless fixed correctly. JMHO.

MP&C
07-08-2014, 11:55 AM
IMO a single pinhole is an indicator of hidden damage, nothing less. Without further inspection to verify otherwise, count on more damage lurking. Here is a tailgate skin that only showed one pinhole to the outside. Looking in the immediate area, there are much more deep pits ready to break through in short time. Left as is, this would be the ruination of a nice expensive paint job. If you see one pin hole, inspect for other damage.. At the point that the body is in bare metal, repairs are cheap.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/1955%20Chevy%20Wagon%20Restoration%20Album%203/Picture048.jpg

Rick_L
07-08-2014, 04:15 PM
Agree with the above comments about rust pinholes.

Some people use a "water resistant" filler to fill pinholes from welding. Though it's not as acute as rust pinholes, it's much the same thing. When I mig weld sheetmetal, I always check for pinholes by putting a drop light or flashlight behind the panel. You can see even the tiniest pinholes and weld them up.

If you insist on using such a product, All Metal, Metal2metal, and the Dynaglass fillers all use a "water resistant" resin which is not porous. Regular body filler is porous and will not do anything to help such a situation. Keep in mind the description "water resistant" as opposed to "waterproof". There is no "waterproof" filler or coating. The other thing about these "water resistant" fillers is that they are hard to sand, so you shouldn't use them for regular filler work.

markm
07-09-2014, 11:19 AM
When I was young I tried welding pin holes and failed miserably, as stated above the back side is always thin. cut

BAM55
07-10-2014, 09:02 AM
Keep in mind the description "water resistant" as opposed to "waterproof". There is no "waterproof" filler or coating. The other thing about these "water resistant" fillers is that they are hard to sand, so you shouldn't use them for regular filler work.

Good point I've been telling people the same for years but they don't believe me. People want to believe in a miracle I guess. I also do the light thing when I weld in patches, but once I started grinding my welds before my next series of tacks I no longer got the tiny pin holes. Grinding my welds before each tack allowed me to piggy back off the good weld and not lay a tack on top of the welds instead of the sheetmetal. I hope that makes sense.lol

Rick_L
07-10-2014, 09:17 AM
I hope that makes sense.

It does for me because I learned the same thing you did.

slowfinger
07-15-2014, 10:33 AM
Thanks for the input! Was a little fustrated with pin holes above top trunk opening on the 56 hard top. I guess I'll get good with pannels! Not in a hurry with this stuff. Geo.