PDA

View Full Version : 55 Gasser frame project



chevynut
11-17-2014, 01:22 PM
Since we're on the last stretch with HEMI 55 frame I decided to work on the 55 Gasser frame today. This is the frame for Steve's brother, who has always wanted a gasser. It's a 55 2-door sedan and will have a BBC and T400.

We're planning to use a Jim Meyer's ladder bar kit, shock bar, and crossmember. The rear will be a Dana 60 and will sit around 4.5" higher than stock height using coilovers. In front we're using an early 60's Chevy van i-beam axle, leaf springs, and as much else as possible.

I cut off the frame forward of the steering box holes because we plan to use the stock box, if possible. I built the tapered frame rails today and they're ready to weld up. The ends of the frame rail will be radiused and smoothed. Then we will attach them to the frame with reinforcements, add a spreader bar, radiator support, and a tubular BBC engine mount.


3759 3760

56-210Sedan
11-17-2014, 05:49 PM
what number will this one be?

chevynut
11-17-2014, 07:33 PM
HEMI 55 is #52 and the Gasser is #53. Then we have another full frame with an AME center section scheduled, and possibly another frame and clip that are in the works.

carls 56 (RIP 11/24/2021)
11-18-2014, 05:37 AM
very nice. cool to be doing (& making $$$$) in retirement. :cool:

chevynut
11-18-2014, 07:01 AM
Yeah Carl, it's nice to be able to work as much or as little as I want to. Sometimes I think I work a little too much, but I really like the fab work and frame-building. The nice thing is I get to work with my son a couple times a week since he works with me about 9-10 hours a week (one evening and one weekend morning) plus his full-time job. Making the extra money is nice too.

We have the C4 stuff just about down to a science since we've done so many of them, so the gasser frame is a refreshing change of pace for me. I've had lots of guys contact me about doing C4 conversions for 55-57 trucks, 50's Studebakers, Chevelles, and other cars and trucks. I have a design almost completed for a 58-64 Impala front end but the tri5 frames are keeping me too busy to really work on others. The guy I was working with on the Impala design (he has a 62 bubbletop) just quit communicating with me, so he can figure it out himself.

chevynut
11-19-2014, 01:08 PM
Well it looks like the van axle isn't going to work as planned. The springs are a little too far apart which I could probably deal with, but the worst problem is that the wheel mounting surfaces are at 63" apart which I feel is too wide. I have seen gassers use this axle, but it's certainly not ideal. We're looking for one from a 55-59 truck, which is also commonly used.

chevynut
11-25-2014, 07:22 AM
A couple days ago I disassembled the Dana 60 so I could move it around and so we can weld on it. It still had the axles in it and was full of oil. I got it all apart but couldn't get the spool out of it. I'm not sure if it requires a case spreader to do that or what. Yesterday I removed the spring perches to prepare it for the ladder bar mounts. Jim Meyers should be shipping the ladder bar kit tomorrow. We still haven't found a 55-59 Chevy front axle for it......found several 3/4 ton axles but we need a 1/2 ton axle.

chevynut
12-01-2014, 08:26 AM
We decided to go with a straight axle kit from Speedway. It arrived Saturday and it's all in a bunch of little pieces. Lots of assembly required. :)

http://static.speedwaymotors.com/RS/SR/Product/62/9103950_L_158a22a6.JPG

markm
12-01-2014, 04:37 PM
A couple days ago I disassembled the Dana 60 so I could move it around and so we can weld on it. It still had the axles in it and was full of oil. I got it all apart but couldn't get the spool out of it. I'm not sure if it requires a case spreader to do that or what. Yesterday I removed the spring perches to prepare it for the ladder bar mounts. Jim Meyers should be shipping the ladder bar kit tomorrow. We still haven't found a 55-59 Chevy front axle for it......found several 3/4 ton axles but we need a 1/2 ton axle.

I run a Dana 60 in my 55 and both my drag Camaros and have never needed a spreader to disassemble a rear.

chevynut
12-01-2014, 05:51 PM
I run a Dana 60 in my 55 and both my drag Camaros and have never needed a spreader to disassemble a rear.

Well I guess I'm glad I didn't take it out or I'd be putting it back in anyhow to make this into a roller. He's going to have the spool replaced with a diff and they can deal with it.

chevynut
12-02-2014, 01:49 PM
Today I located the front springs and put the center bolts on the axle centerline in my jig. I used some clamps and ratchet straps to get the springs compressed to approximate ride height. I then tacked the front brackets to the new frame rails.

3791 3792

Then I decided to assemble the front axle. I installed the spindles and found out there's too much play between the spindles and axle, and I ran out of shims in the kingpun kit.

I unpacked the disc brake hubs/rotors and tried to assemble them to the spindles. I noticed the kit had new races and bearings with it, but the hub already had races in it. So I assumed the races were extra parts. However, I packed the bearings and tried to install them on the axle. The nut bottomed out on the spindle.

I called Speedway and found out that I had to replace the races, as the new ones were thicker. There are no instructions for brake assembly in this kit, nor on their website link to the axle kit. You have to go to the specific brake kit to get a .pdf. I told them they should link it from the axle kit. They're also going to send me some more shims so I can shim up the spindles.

Anyhow, I got the axle assembled after futzing around with it for a couple of hours. Getting the races out was not easy to do. There was almost zero edge on the inside to drive them out with.


3793 3794

chevynut
12-02-2014, 05:26 PM
Due to the location of the front spring mounts, I had to remove and modify the radiator support I had installed earlier. Rather than attaching the radiator support to the bottom of the frame rails like I do on the C4 conversions, I attached it to the inside of the frame rails.

I built some axle stands to set the Dana 60 low in the frame, since I have removed the Dana 44 from my jig for this project. Now I can locate everything correctly when the Jim Meyers ladder bar kit arrives. I'm trying to do as much in the jig as possible, but I know there will be some work I won't be able to do until I take the frame out of the jig.

chevynut
01-03-2015, 06:57 AM
We still have the stuff from Jim Meyer Racing sitting here but it's all going back to them except the tubular engine mount that my customer wants to use. Hopefully that JMRP debacle is finally over with. Virtually nothing was like it was shown on their website, and they're arrogant and rude people to try to work with.

We're currently working with Earle Williams on making a custom set of ladder bars, panhard bar, front ladder bar crossmember, shock mounts and all the brackets for this project.

We got a little more work done on the gasser front end this week. I built the custom radiator support and we got it tacked into place, and we welded the round caps on the frame rails. I also fitted the spreader bar and the engine mount so they fit between the frame rails. There's not a lot more we can do on it until the frame comes out of the jig, and we can't do that until the Hemi55 frame is finished.:-o


3923 3924 3925

chevynut
01-27-2015, 07:30 PM
We received the Williams Classis Chassis ladder bar kit yesterday. This one was somewhat of a 'custom' build for Earle because of the stance the customer wants. The centerline of the rear axle is even with the bottom of the frame. They're 48" ladder bars with a custom front brackets, and custom upper shock mounts.

Here's some of the parts to the kit. I have to split the 360 degree axle brackets to put them on, then weld them back together. We're using a panhard bar to locate the rear axle. I guess I have to fit the upper shock mounts to the frame where they won't interfere with the floor, then trim them to size. The workmanship on this stuff is outstanding, and the TIG welds are beautiful.

3995 3996 3997 3998

chevynut
01-27-2015, 07:38 PM
Oh yeah, a while ago we got the engine mount located and installed the transmission crossmember. We had to cut the bracket off the T400 crossmember to center it because it was off-center about 1/4". The brace across the front rails is temporary, and will be removed when everything is welded.

3999 4000 4001

markm
01-28-2015, 04:24 PM
I never noticed a Camaro crossmember being off center, are they or is it a Chinese copy thing.

Rick_L
01-28-2015, 06:21 PM
Some of the Gen 1 Camaro BB OEM stuff, as well as early Nova stuff, has the engine/transmission offset 1/2" to 1" to the passenger side. It's something that would solve some problems on our cars, but few think of it.

Earle's tig welding is always outstanding and pleasing to the eye. I've heard that he welds all the custom stuff himself, and much of the production stuff.

chevynut
01-28-2015, 06:23 PM
I never noticed a Camaro crossmember being off center, are they or is it a Chinese copy thing.

I think this crossmember came from CPP or Ecklers, and was supposed to be for a '55 Chevy. That bracket was obviously off-center. I don't know if it was by design, or a quality issue. I also think it's too short, but it works with custom wider brackets we made. Here's a couple pics....the two on the right are with the bracket centered in the frame.

4006 4007 4008

chevynut
01-28-2015, 06:35 PM
Some of the Gen 1 Camaro BB OEM stuff, as well as early Nova stuff, has the engine/transmission offset 1/2" to 1" to the passenger side. It's something that would solve some problems on our cars, but few think of it.

This was offset about 1/4" to the DRIVER'S SIDE.


Earle's tig welding is always outstanding and pleasing to the eye. I've heard that he welds all the custom stuff himself, and much of the production stuff.

I asked him about it because the welds are so incredibly smooth and consistent. He says him and two other guys do the welding. I don't know who did these parts. We discussed welding for a while and I asked for some tips on materials, setup, etc. I can make decent-looking welds but they never have the "shine" that Earle's have. I use the same rod, gas, flowrate, and tungsten as he does. He uses mild steel like I do. One thing that's different is that I use an air-cooled torch. I plan to upgrade to water-cooled.

Rick_L
01-28-2015, 07:45 PM
Not surprising that he uses a water cooled torch.

I'm curious though why it would make a difference on 1/8" or thinner steel, alloy or not. I kind of doubt it really.

I can do welds like his about 10% of the time. Not so much for the rest. But I think it's just technique and experience.

chevynut
01-28-2015, 08:36 PM
I think it's just technique and experience.

I really don't think so. The technique and experience give you the perfect "stacked dimes" look that he can do and I'm not nearly as good at. But the shiny, smooth welds he can do seems to be something else. My son has a lot of experience TIG welding on my frames and at a heating and A/C place he worked at for a few years and his welds have a finish similar to mine. Earle and I discussed amperage settings, and we're about the same. He uses a smaller gas cup than I do so I plan to try that. I just haven't figured out what the difference is.

chevynut
01-29-2015, 09:33 AM
Do any of you have an opinion on rear axle position on a gasser? I know they usually use pretty large diameter tires, and I know that can be an issue with the rocker clearance. Earle recommends moving the axle back 1/2" to 1" for this reason. Do you see any reason NOT to do that? I have it set up at the stock location now. This car is going to sit high, with the rocker being 2.4" above the tire centerline but it could drop that much with suspension travel.

Rick_L
01-29-2015, 11:17 AM
I think that "real" gassers didn't move the axle back - they cut away whatever metal was in the way.

Moving the axle back decreases the weight on the rear tires, something you didn't want to do in the day. In fact right after the gasser trend was the factory experiment and then funny car trend, and those cars moved the axle forward for the weight distribution.

On the other hand, about 95% of the "gassers" these days have few of the small details like the originals. So most don't care or don't know, or even want to know.

chevynut
01-29-2015, 11:39 AM
I found out that the plan is to use 30.2" diameter tires on the rear. I don't know how close a 55 is to a 56, but I measured my Nomad and it has 26.13 " tires on the rear with about 1.5" clearance to the rocker. That means the max tire diameter would be about 29.13" on my car. So I moved the axle back 3/4" to make sure nothing rubs. That's still only .43" clearance, but I hesitate to move the axle any further due to shock fitment issues.

Rick_L
01-29-2015, 01:27 PM
If anything a 55 probably has more metal in the way by a small amount.

The modern way of building a modified drag race car is to narrow the axle and install bigger tubs. And stretch the wheel opening, moving the front forward and the rear back. This style started right after the gassers, where they just made that big radius cutout, with the radius as big as necessary.

How much clearance you should plan for is a matter of the type of tire. Street tires don't grow significantly. Some real drag slicks grow tremendously.

chevynut
02-16-2015, 03:50 PM
The gasser frame is finished and the chassis assembled. Last week we finished the welding and the assembly of this project. It took a lot longer than I expected with all the changes to the plan and everything I had to adjust as we went. Earle designed some upper rear shock mounts and they were supposed to clear the trunk floor. After crawling under my sedan several times, taking measurements, and cutting and fitting the parts I finally got what I believe will work. The owner didn't want to cut his trunk floor like Earle's standard mounts require you to do.

I also didn't like the Speedway Motors shackle mount bracket. This is a 2-piece frame and the bracket would have had to sit right on the jogged part of the frame which I felt was unsafe. Plus they zinc plate them so you really need to strip the zinc to weld them. So I fabbed some new brackets that I feel are better and safer.

Here's some pics.

4069 4071 4072 4073 4070 4074 4075 4076 4077

markm
02-16-2015, 04:39 PM
I think that "real" gassers didn't move the axle back - they cut away whatever metal was in the way.

Moving the axle back decreases the weight on the rear tires, something you didn't want to do in the day. In fact right after the gasser trend was the factory experiment and then funny car trend, and those cars moved the axle forward for the weight distribution.

On the other hand, about 95% of the "gassers" these days have few of the small details like the originals. So most don't care or don't know, or even want to know.

My 55 was a half assed gasser back in the day, they cut the rear quarters 12 inches above stock opening, stock rear springs with welded diff and stupid long shackle's

That rear suspension looks way more advanced than any gasser I ever recall seeing.

Geoff
02-16-2015, 09:00 PM
Really, really nice work on that gasser chassis Lazlo.

567chevys
02-16-2015, 09:06 PM
Looks really nice , also that floor looks Great !!


Sid

Justin@ECP
02-24-2015, 11:37 AM
The more I look at this build, the more I get into gasser setups

chevynut
02-15-2017, 10:30 AM
The 55 Gasser finally got out of 122 weeks at the body shop :) :)

6934

6935

6936

BamaNomad
02-15-2017, 02:13 PM
Sure looks great now... :) maybe even worth 122 weeks of 'paint hell'.. :)