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55taz
04-24-2015, 06:00 PM
:? I have a 350(69 blk) 400 HP, 4 spd . My question is I am using a 55-57 bell hsg with 57 stardard hi-torq starter, the headers run vary close to the starter and sometimes I get hard starts.Can I use and who's mini hi-torg starter on a 55-57 bell hsg?and do I have to modify the bell hsg? My blk has the 2 holes on the bottom so to bolt a mini starter on. I need some help on this issue. Or should I buy a HI-Torg standard starter from Power Master ? Thanks ahead of time for your help.

Taz

chevynut
04-25-2015, 06:55 AM
Welcome to the site Taz.

When you say "hard starts" do you mean the starter won't engage, or it will engage but won't crank? Does it work normally when the engine is cold?

If it's only when hot, what you're describing is a common "heat soak" problem with Chevy starters. It's my understanding that most of the time the problem you're experiencing is not related to the starter getting hot, it's the solenoid getting hot. So a mini-starter won't necessarily fix the problem.

The current to your solenoid has to run from the battery through the ignition switch, then through the neutral safety switch (if you have an automatic) then to the solenoid. All these connections can result in a voltage drop that can contribute to the problem. Once the solenoid gets hot, its resistance increases as well and there's not enough power to properly engage the solenoid.

The first thing to do is to verify all the connections to make sure they're good. Is your battery relocated? One common solution is to install a remote solenoid to make sure you get full voltage to the solenoid. This can be done using a "Ford" solenoid or a kit like this from Painless or other sources:

http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcat/30202

One simple test would be to measure the voltage to the solenoid "S" terminal while cranking. If it's considerably less than 12 volts, the relay should solve the problem. If it's 12 volts the problem is something else.

55taz
04-25-2015, 09:08 AM
Thanks for the answer. Battery is in trunk. It only happens when I have been driving for quite awhile and stop, then have to start right away to move the car.

WagonCrazy
04-25-2015, 06:28 PM
Classic signs of solenoid heat soak problems..
Had them on my wagon shortly after I put blockhugger headers on it.
Solved it by adding a second (ford) solenoid mounted AWAY from the heat source (on the upper firewall near the passenger hood hinge) and then wiring to the existing starter solenoid.

Works like a charm. Every time.

There is all kinds of debate on the other tri-5 forums about the merits of using this solution as a solution. Alot of guys say it isn't a solution. Then some of us just don't overthink it and spend $25 for a second solenoid and solve it, and continue to drive our cars.

Rick_L
04-25-2015, 06:42 PM
There are some other angles to this problem also.

It is pretty common for a performance engine to have cranking problems when hot. The solution is to back off the initial timing in 2 degree increments until the situation improves.

The other thing that happens is that a "rebuilt" starter is purchased, but the cheaper ones are not "rebuilt", they just have whatever was malfunctioning replaced. What that means is that things like the shaft bushings, etc. don't get replaced unless they totally failed. So the "rebuilt" starter has more friction than a new one, or one that's been "remanufactured".

Of course the battery and its cables and connections are always a factor here too.

You have to have all these right to have success.

markm
04-26-2015, 12:21 PM
Classic signs of solenoid heat soak problems..
Had them on my wagon shortly after I put blockhugger headers on it.
Solved it by adding a second (ford) solenoid mounted AWAY from the heat source (on the upper firewall near the passenger hood hinge) and then wiring to the existing starter solenoid.

Works like a charm. Every time.

There is all kinds of debate on the other tri-5 forums about the merits of using this solution as a solution. Alot of guys say it isn't a solution. Then some of us just don't overthink it and spend $25 for a second solenoid and solve it, and continue to drive our cars.


When I wired my 55 I used a Ford solenoid from day 1, based on past experience with headers.