Building my dash valence and console

[chevynut]

Thought I'd start a new thread on the fabrication of my dash valence, and more fab work on my console. I've posted a few pics before but I decided to put them here to make it a more complete thread.

My idea is to try to tie the valence into the console like you see on some modern cars. I wanted a smooth flowing curve from the valence to the console and along the console edges. This is my valence design in CAD after a few hours of measuring and massaging it:

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4484&stc=1

I decided to add 4 A/C vents instead of the two at the ends that I initially planned to use. I was going to put two on the side of the console but decided they look better with 4 as long as I can get the hoses fitted. I haven't decided yet if I'm going to retain the stock fresh air vents, and if I do I will need to add the knobs and cables or some electrical actuator. Also, I have a Lokar park brake release knob I need to add somewhere. There may be switches for the power vent windows and other things on the valence too, if I don't put them elsewhere. I don't really want the vent window switches on the door.

I started building my console some time ago, before my door panels were finalized. I'm considering changing the design from the one on the left to the one on the right since it flows with the door design better. It all depends on the aesthetics on the top and the fitting of other parts.

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4485&stc=1 http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4486&stc=1


I want to make most of this out of aluminum because I find it easier to work with than steel (I'm not good enough to make it in steel), and I don't like a lot of wood or MDF used for interior construction in a car.

I had some initial thoughts about how to build the valence, and after studying how to fabricate it and getting some suggestions here I decided to round the bottom of it with a mild radius instead of making it square. This will make it flow nicely into my console which will also have rounded moldings on the sides of it if I can make them right. It also gave me a fairly ridid piece to weld to, minimizing distortion.

I laid out the part on some 5052 aluminum, drew the forming lines allowing for a bend at the top to attach it to the dash. Then I started forming it over a 3/4" rod and the edge of a 2x3x.188" tube which seems to have a 3/8" radius on the corners. I used a plastic hammer and a steel body hammer. The 5052 forms pretty well but it does work-harden fairly fast. Once it was formed, the whole part was severely curved due to the stretching caused by forming so I had to shrink the formed edge to make it straight again.

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4487&stc=1

After the main piece was formed to my liking, I cut the piece for the lower flange making it wide enough to transition into the console molding that I will fab later. I bent it over some round objects in my shop by hand, to get it close to the shape of the valence. I also clamped the valence to my tubing to help keep it straight while welding the flange on.

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4488&stc=1 http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4489&stc=1




This is what it looked like after welding and grinding...

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4490&stc=1

After trimming and initial fitting it looked like this:

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4491&stc=1

Next I drew up some A/C vents actual size (1.6"x4") to see what it looked like, and if I liked the way it was turning out. I also installed an old instrument cluster I had as well as a 2" stainless tube to mock up the steering column and the windlace retainer.

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4492&stc=1 http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4493&stc=1


At first it seemed kind of tall to me, but after drawing in the trim I plan to add along the top, and sticking the fake vents on, I think it works out just about right. It just takes a little getting used to after having nothing there. I haven't figured out what to do with the end at the console yet. There will be a DVD stereo there with a bezel that doesn't leave a lot of room.

Now I have to finish fabricating the passenger side. The trim on top will probably be stainless steel. The dash will be charcoal all the way down to the valence. The valence might be orange, to bring the exterior color into the car. Or I may make the top of the console orange, and put carbon fiber on the valence to match the door moldings.

Please let me know what you think if this as I appreciate all feedback. ;)

[chevynut]

I used the oval A/C vents because they match my door handles and courtesy lights.


http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4494&stc=1 http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4495&stc=1

[MP&C]

can't see pics...

[carls 56 (RIP 11/24/2021)]

can't see pics...

same here, black x. :eek:

[chevynut]

That's weird. I see large pics and not the usual thumbnails I get when I upload from my computer. The site was acting strange last night when I tried to edit the posts. I'll try to re-load the pics.

[chevynut]

I just reloaded the pics. They're still big, not like they used to be. I re-booted my computer last night after having problems uploading pics. I was seeing the big pics plus a group of thumbnails all bunched together at the bottom of the post. Does it work now? It's different than it used to be for some reason, and I haven't changed any of my settings.

edit: Well, I'm seeing the thumbnails at the bottom again. Don't know what's going on with the pic uploads.

[rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017]

Me thanks it would look better if you increase the radius to mimic dash.
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/lazvalance.jpg

[chevynut]

Rocky, thanks for the feedback. I don't see how I can form the part to have a curve like the dash, and still flow into the console like I want it to and have flat places for the vents. Do you know how to do that? I sure don't. ;)

Also, I don't think there's room to do that unless I make the valence taller which would make it pretty tall. I want a piece of trim at the top about 1/2" wide, then there needs to be about 3/8" on each side of the 1.6" vent to look right. That's 2.85".

If I curve the whole thing, I would need bulges formed in it to mount the vents to. I don't think I can make those with the tools and skills I have. Then I just don't see how I could make the transition to the console molding. It gets way too complicated and I don't have the time to mess with it for months. :)

[chevynut]

This would be a great piece for a 3D printer. Just design it in CAD and print the pieces. :)

[rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017]

Robert could do it LOL....

Guess I don't follow your concern the part is identical to what you just did but with a bigger radius. The tangent point will be lower thats all. You may have to reshape the console some to accommodate but the part is same as far as fabrication goes.

Besides if I can draw it you can built it lol.....

carry on

[chevynut]

Rocky, imagine the transition from the large radius going top to bottom to the smaller radius at the console. It's gets into a very complicated shape there that I'm not sure can be done with metal very easily. I think it would have to be multiple parts welded together.

And you're right, the bottom of the valence would have to be lower if I kept it flat where the vents are.

If someone could tell me how to build this with a large radius at the bottom and a smooth transition to the console with tools I have, I'm all ears. :)

Wish I could draft this up in 3D so you could see what I mean about the transition.

[rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017]

If you will send me some 2d drawings with basic dimensions I can model it in 3d in about 10 minutes and send you a file in 3d you can see for yourself.

[chevynut]

Rocky, in the drawing above the width is 3", the radius at the console is 2", and the length at the console is 5.5". The roll-over radius at the console is 3/8". The actual profile doesn't really matter, and it could be parallel lines over the 3" width. It's probably easier for you to create that than for me to send you a dfx. You could get a 3D image or two and post it here.

But the issue is forming it. I can visualize the part, I just don't know how to stretch the metal that much. I'd almost have to make a wooden buck, then form it over it.

Robert, and ideas? Maybe looking at Rocky's 3D drawing will help.

[Rick_L]

Personally I like the tighter radius and its transition to the console. This is not a part for a "jelly bean" car.

And it's hard to see how you'd make it any other way than what you did - at least with minimal tooling. Not sure that better tooling would help all that much because trying to make it one piece is going to require a lot of stretching.

[chevynut]

That's what I'm getting at too Rick. I would like to make the large radius at the bottom, and it would be easy if all I did was butt the valence up to the console. However, doing what I want to do would result in a really complex concave form at the transition. I just don't think I could do it out of metal. I could probably carve a piece of wood as a form and make it out of fiberglass. I do almost everything twice, so if anyone comes up with a way to do it I'd like to hear it. I have the passenger side made and I'll post pics later.

[rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017]

Have you considered building it using tubing or rod instead of trying to be a Robert lol. Here is a nice example. It would allow you to create a 3 dimensional curve that would transition seemlessly into the console. What im saying is to have a big radius that is not complex then the flat face of the console has to be longer than 5.5. More like 8 or 9. The radius on the dash is approx 6 inches.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1155567-1937-ford-ls2-install-19.html

Using tubing would also eliminate the sharp edge that will slice your legs off should something ever happen unforseen.
To me the valance is to wide if your a/c vents are to scale you could reduce it to 2 inches insted of 3.

This is modeled with a 8 inch flat 2.5 wide and 5 inch radius.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_47.jpg

[Rick_L]

Rocky I'm not following how that piece can be made from tube. Can you elaborate on how you'd do it?

[rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017]

Look at link. The entire console and valance could be made together sense he is laying it up in place. Same basic thing that is creating the dash in the 37. All simple 2d parts welded to the tube. Why can't that be done here. The entire valance and flat portion of dash can be one piece. The curve on the top of of the console is also one piece. Doesn't seem complex at all to me.

[rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017]

Robert no offense you are only second to JC if that makes you fill any better.

[Rick_L]

Rocky, maybe that method is an alternative to Cnut's - but it does require a bunch more welding and finishing. And it might be a better way to do it if you wanted to use steel rather than aluminum. And the 37 needed to be steel for what he did.

In the end, it does show that there are different ways to a similar end.

[chevynut]

Have you considered building it using tubing or rod instead of trying to be a Robert lol. Here is a nice example.

The part you linked, the 37 dash, is a pretty simple example compared to what I thought you were proposing for my valence.There aren't any complex curves there and I could easily build that part.


Using tubing would also eliminate the sharp edge that will slice your legs off should something ever happen unforseen.

There is no sharp edge on my valence at the bottom. What I built is almost exactly what your 3D representation shows. I have a 3/8" radius all along the bottom and it's just over 3" wide including the radius. I planned and drew it out at 3" but somehow I ended up a little over that, probably due to the bends.



To me the valance is to wide if your a/c vents are to scale you could reduce it to 2 inches insted of 3.

The vents are either 1.6" or 1.75" wide, depending on the ones I choose. 2" isn't anywhere near wide enough to accommodate them. Like I said, I want a 1/2" or so piece of polished trim at the top, you need about 1/4" to 3/8" on each side of the vent to look decent, and then you have the radius of 3/8". That means the valence HAS TO be a minimum of 2 1/2" wide. Using more relaxed clearances it's closer to 3".


This is modeled with a 8 inch flat 2.5 wide and 5 inch radius.

Okay, now put the 1.6"x 4" vent on it and leave a little space on each side. Then add room for a narrow piece of trim. There isn't enough room.

It seems like you're not seeing the real part shape in my pics. It's not sharp at the bottom, it's curved just like your 3D pic. In fact, it's almost identical to your pic except the dimensions and the large radius at the console. I like the smaller radius much better there. I thought you were proposing a large radius on the bottom edge.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_47.jpg[/QUOTE]

[chevynut]

Look at link. The entire console and valance could be made together sense he is laying it up in place. Same basic thing that is creating the dash in the 37. All simple 2d parts welded to the tube. Why can't that be done here. The entire valance and flat portion of dash can be one piece. The curve on the top of of the console is also one piece. Doesn't seem complex at all to me.

Rocky, you're not making any sense to me. Firs of all, I don't want the valence and the console to be one piece. Next, you're showing a 37 Ford dash that doesn't look ANYTHING like what I'm trying to build. I don't see how a tube solves anything because making a large radius at the bottom of the dash blend into the console creates complex curves that can't easily be made out of sheetmetal. The rods don't solve anything, other than giving you a pattern to go by. It still requires forming parts. The parts on that dash are mostly flat.

I don't think you're understanding what I'm trying to do, or I don't understand what you're proposing I do. My part looks virtually identical to your drawing, and I made it with NO RODS or tubes. Maybe I need to post another picture or two of it.

How are these any different?

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_47.jpg

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4497&stc=1

[chevynut]

What im saying is to have a big radius that is not complex then the flat face of the console has to be longer than 5.5. More like 8 or 9. The radius on the dash is approx 6 inches.

So apparently I have been misunderstanding where you want me to put the large radius. I thought it was the bottom of my valence, parallel with the dash. I personally like the 2" radius I have on my design a lot better than a large radius where it blends into the console. Also, I only have a small amount of room on the console for the molding before it starts to curve back upwards. That's why I picked the 5.5" length there. I think it's only straight for about 7".


This is modeled with a 8 inch flat 2.5 wide and 5 inch radius.

Change your model to 3" wide at the left end, slowly increasing to about 3.5" wide then a 2" radius to the console. Then make the entire bottom edge a 3/8" radius you'll have what I built. It only overhangs the console by 3/8" and the rest gets cut off or used to form the other end at the console. My design isn't the same width the full length...I purposely made it parabolic or elliptical since I thought it looked better that way. I originally designed it to be 3" then do straight to the 2" radius at the console.
http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4484&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1433120903

[rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017]

Do it however you wish. Just giving some other ideas. I do like the parabolic design but its not real apparent on the part with only 1/2 inch height across that length. I still say you have a sharp edge. Your part is setting at a angle under the dash there for the back edge is a knife edge. Your leg will hit it not the radius in front unless you are rolling or planning to bend up the back edge.

[chevynut]

If mine has a "knife edge" so does the part you showed in 3D. :) I really don't see how my legs could get under the valence and get hurt. It's not a sharp edge like you would get with a piece of 20 gauge steel, it's a flat edge on .063" aluminum. It wouldn't be hard to roll it over with my bead roller if I felt it needed it...which I don't. ;)

Yes I completely misunderstood what you were getting at, and I appreciate the feedback and discussion. I failed to properly interpret your photoshopping of the first pic you posted. I thought you were referring to the radius that Robert suggested, rolling it down from the dash.

Yes I like the tighter radius at the console better, for a couple of reasons. It makes a smaller "flat" area next to the console, and it allows me to transition into the console where it's still straight next to the stereo. The parabolic or elliptical shape of the bottom edge isn't too apparent, but it's there.

And as I said, I don't have a lot of room to make it narrower. I could lop off about 1/4" if I really wanted to, but I wonder if that would really change it that much.

Again, thanks for the feedback and suggestions. :)

[rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017]

Yea, I was proud of my photo chop lol. I always heard a picture was worth a 1000 words but I guess not. Or I just really suck at photo chop lol.

[chevynut]

Yea, I was proud of my photo chop lol. I always heard a picture was worth a 1000 words but I guess not. Or I just really suck at photo chop lol.

No, in retrospect now I see that I missed it. I just assumed you were talking about the same thing Robert suggested, and the photoshop didn't register with me because I already had misinterpreted your intent. Your 3D image is what finally jogged my brain to understanding what you were saying. Thanks for that. :)

[chevynut]

Here's a couple of pics of the two sides completed. Personally, I can readily see the parabolic shape of the bottom edge, and I like it. It's not much, but it makes it flow better into the console. I think the overall width goes well with the dash inserts too, and it won't look as wide when it's painted or covered with whatever I'm putting on it. Most of the inboard ends will be cut off.

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4498&stc=1

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4499&stc=1

[Troy]

It's very subtle (hard to use restraint) but I think it looks way better than straight. Are they going to be upholstered or painted?

[chevynut]

Are they going to be upholstered or painted?

Not sure yet. The dash is going to have to be charcoal to match the door panel leather. I'm trying to figure out how to bring some of the orange from outside the car into the interior. I don't know yet if they'll be painted orange, orange/tan leather, charcoal, charcoal leather, or carbon fiber. It's wide open now. I plan to have some polished stainless between the dash and the valence to mimic the door panel trim.

[chevynut]

So today I decided to try making the molding that I plan to use on the side of my console. I made a cardboard pattern, then cut it out of 1/2" MDF. I decided to try the second design console shape that matches the door lines. In this pic you can see where I'm headed with this. I want the valence to flow into the console. I put the shifter in place and it looks like it will work just fine. It may be 1/2" or so above where it will actually sit.

This is the second pass at making the molding. The first one was a bit flatter on the upward curve. The top plate of the console will sit about 1/2" below the top of the molding.

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4507&stc=1

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4508&stc=1

[chevynut]

I wish I knew why the hell my pics post like they do. I never had this problem until a few days ago.

[NickP]

Are those vents adjustable?

[chevynut]

Are those vents adjustable?

Not the paper ones that are stuck on with tape. :) :) They are on one brand I'm considering.

[JT56]

Not the paper ones that are stuck on with tape. :) :) They are on one brand I'm considering.

Are you going to have tassels on them so you know when the a/c is running:D

[rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017]

Are those vents adjustable?

Nick it doesn't matter for Trailer queens. With all the Time, energy, and love he has put into it odds are he will never cross the loose asphalt with it LOL. :)

[chevynut]

Nick it doesn't matter for Trailer queens. With all the Time, energy, and love he has put into it odds are he will never cross the loose asphalt with it LOL. :)

I may have to pave it...I don't even own a car trailer. :)

[NickP]

Not the paper ones that are stuck on with tape. :) :) They are on one brand I'm considering.LOL! Will they be flush to the valance surface? Also, and I know you have given serious thought to it all, at the end of the valance, it has a void that looks a bit odd to me but I am old so maybe that's the issue. I do like the overall scheme.

[chevynut]

The vents sit on top of the valence and stick up maybe 3/16" as far as I can tell. These are the ones I'll likely use...pricey but nice. VA has them, and they're made by Clayton machine, the same as my door handles and door lights. Let me know if pics don't work.

http://static.speedwaymotors.com/RS/SR/Product/75/231001_L_1bfd06ac.jpg


http://static.speedwaymotors.com/RS/SR/Alternative/75/231001%7E1_L_1bfd06e9.jpg


Which end of the valence, Nick? I plan to put a cap on the end. There will be a kick panel and windlace retainer beside that. I've thought about adding a curve to the end to match it to the windlace retainer, but haven't decided exactly what to do there. I would have liked to run the end into the door.

[NickP]

The vents sit on top of the valence and stick up maybe 3/16" as far as I can tell. These are the ones I'll likely use...pricey but nice. VA has them, and they're made by Clayton machine, the same as my door handles and door lights. Let me know if pics don't work.http://static.speedwaymotors.com/RS/SR/Product/75/231001_L_1bfd06ac.jpghttp://static.speedwaymotors.com/RS/SR/Alternative/75/231001%7E1_L_1bfd06e9.jpgWhich end of the valence, Nick? I plan to put a cap on the end. There will be a kick panel and windlace retainer beside that. I've thought about adding a curve to the end to match it to the windlace retainer, but haven't decided exactly what to do there. I would have liked to run the end into the door.Oh, I knew it would be capped but the angle developed in the corner ( I realize it will have finished material) looks odd to me. http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1600/2283636/20292324/411370833.jpg

[chevynut]

Oh, I knew it would be capped but the angle developed in the corner ( I realize it will have finished material) looks odd to me.

So what do you suggest?

[NickP]

So what do you suggest?OMG! I have no idea. I didn't mean this to be a critique. It's just one of those flow things that I get hung up about. If it suits you then by all means ignore me, my ex-wife does that all of the time. BTW, going in with a proxy as I am now has it's limits.

[chevynut]

No Nick, don't apologize. I'm open to critique and appreciate it. I am really asking for advice on what to do there at the ends. I don't get upset when someone gives me their opinions on my car, even though I may not agree.

[NickP]

OK, going to try this again (proxy server bailed or timed out). The transition between the radius and the face of the valance seems harsh. Is the valance face parallel to the radio face area? What will take place with all of the original openings, i.e. radio, heater controls, glove box etc.? Maybe a radius transition from lower dash radius to valance face. I know consideration has to be given to leg room. Just throwing it out there.

[chevynut]

Nick, yes the valence face is parallel with the new stereo face. The original radio opening will be covered. The stock heater controls, glove box, ash tray will remain. I may even keep the fresh air vents below.

Not sure what you mean by "radius transition". I don't want to misinterpret it like I did Rocky's suggestion. If I'm understanding your suggestion correctly, I don't see how that fixes the triangular shaped area at the end of the valence. I've been considering adding a partial "cone-shaped" piece in that corner and end it parallel with the windlace.

[NickP]

Nick, yes the valence face is parallel with the new stereo face. The original radio opening will be covered. The stock heater controls, glove box, ash tray will remain. I may even keep the fresh air vents below. Not sure what you mean by "radius transition". I don't want to misinterpret it like I did Rocky's suggestion. If I'm understanding your suggestion correctly, I don't see how that fixes the triangular shaped area at the end of the valence. I've been considering adding a partial "cone-shaped" piece in that corner and end it parallel with the windlace.The lower radius of the dash just charges into the new valance face and stops. If it had a radius at that point it might diminish the triangle enough that with trim at the ends it will go away. Easier said than done I think.

[chevynut]

The lower radius of the dash just charges into the new valance face and stops. If it had a radius at that point it might diminish the triangle enough that with trim at the ends it will go away. Easier said than done I think.

I see...that would require a complete re-design and fab of the valence, and making it blend into the console would be interesting. ;)

[chevynut]

Here's a pic of what that corner looks like with the valence, kick panel, and windlace retainer installed. Even the windlace retainer looks like crap at the top. I don't know what I'm doing with the kick panel yet. I wonder if I could cut the flange off that corner at the top, and curve the corner around to cover that area.

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4509&stc=1

I also did a little shaping on the molding. I think I want a larger radius at the bottom than at the top. The inboard side of that molding will probably be shaped differently. I don't know how I'm going to separate the leather from the carpet on the sides yet.

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4510&stc=1

[rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017]

I see...that would require a complete re-design and fab of the valence, and making it blend into the console would be interesting. ;)

Same as Nick is saying or asking is why I suggested using the rod and flat metal method to construct it. At that time I just assumed you were going to make it all metal and paint it all blended together. I now see your headed towards upholstery on the sides of the console. Remember these crude renderings? I added your orange paint into the interior this is assuming it is all painted the valance and console.
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/cnutval.jpg

This might give you some ideas of what can be done with foam during the upholstery. This was my nephew truck he went way wild on the flame theme. I build the dash for him using mdf. My son did the upholstery work. All tack glue and foam created these flames.
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/flaming.jpg

[chevynut]

Yes Rocky I do remember you doing those renderings for me. I appreciate the ideas. I like what you did and I still haven't decided what to do with the console so it could still be orange. It's all up in the air as far as colors and materials for both the valence and the console. I think the dash color is pretty much fixed...padded charcoal leather on top and charcoal paint below. The windshield trim will be the stock chrome. My interior guy said he'd do leather on the bottom of the dash too, but I just can't see covering the glove box, ashtray, and all that stuff with leather. There will probably be blank aluminum inserts in the stock locations with no radio holes in the center. I don't think I will use the stock ones with the 56 checkerboard or 55 bowties. I may end up making custom pieces if I can't find what I want.

But the devil is in the details. The drawing is a pretty simple way to make everything come together. Building it and making everything fit is a different thing.

I like the direction I'm heading with it, as do most people I show it to. I think the console looks better now with the door panel design than it did with the "double dip".

I have 4 colors and 4 materials I want to work with on the dash and console....Charcoal, orange, orangish tan, and chrome....leather, paint, carbon fiber, and aluminum. This is what my door panel and rear side panel moldings look like without the tape. I think I'm going to cover the wood-grained part with carbon fiber:

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4511&stc=1

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4512&stc=1

There will also be a small carbon fiber insert in the door handle. I'd like to put some carbon fiber accents on the console and valence too. I don't want to over-do the carbon fiber but I like the more modern look it gives.

I have thought of several ways to do this, but my favorite way would be to mimic the door moldings with the console moldings. I just haven't been able to figure out how to do that and make it look right. The console moldings would have to be chrome on top, with carbon fiber below. That would have to somehow flow into the valence. I may have to put a bead on the valence after all to make that design work.

An alternative would be to paint the valence and console moldings orange, and make the top of the console carbon fiber. I just think something needs to be chrome to complement the door moldings. That's why I thought I'd add a chrome accent on the top of the valence, but it would also need something shiny on the console to look continuous. Maybe just a piece of chrome trim on the inboard sides of the console moldings would work. Also I'll probably make a custom ring for the leather shifter boot.

Some of this is hard to visualize, or doesn't look right when I make it, so I design/re-design as I go. Thanks for all the ideas. ;)

[chevynut]

Here's an update after a few days of work.....

First I filled in the area where I changed the shape of the console by welding in pieces of aluminum and trimming to the final new shape.

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4565&stc=1

Then I made the trim piece for the other side, using the driver's side as a pattern. I also made two matching pieces for the inside edges and instead of rounding that side, I beveled them to give a different look. It will also allow me to make a couple of 45 degree bends in the valence to end them next to the stereo.

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4566&stc=1


http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4567&stc=1

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4568&stc=1


http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4569&stc=1

I also made a face plate for the stereo and cut a piece of stainless trim that goes above it, holding it in place. This is the piece that will be painted or whatever I decide to do with the console top. I made a sub-panel under it to hold the stereo "cage" in place instead of what I had done before. It still sits on a "shelf" in the console.

I sandwiched the sides of the console between the trim pieces and added the steel angles that I shaped on my shrinker and stretcher to define the shape of the top of the console. The top needs to be easily removable forward of the shifter so I can get to my fuses, modules, etc.

Here's the assembled trim....

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4570&stc=1

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4571&stc=1

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4572&stc=1

Next I need to figure out exactly where I plan to cut the console lid plate. This is a 1/4" aluminum plate that Sid had laser cut for me so I can adapt the OEM console lid to my console. After that I need to do the final bending of the valence inboard end to match the trim pieces and sit in a groove on them. That's going to be a tricky thing to do, as it has to be bent perfectly to match the trim. The bends have to be sharp 45 degree angles so I may have to do some tooling using some sort of sharp inside corner and a chisel. If I mess it up I may have to cut and weld pieces in place.

[chevynut]

I haven't been slacking :), but I haven't really made much progress either. The details on this console are really time-consuming and I'm trying to pack the proverbial 10 pounds of stuff in a 5 pound box.

I've been trying to finalize the layout of the electronics in the console and have installed PEM fasteners in the base to screw everything down. So far I have all this installed in the console:

24 fuse panel
5 resettable breakers
9 relays
ECU
Spark Control Module
Wideband O2 controller
Dakota Digital fan controller PAC-2700
Dakota Digital door lock controller PAC-1300A
Dakota Digital headlight/dome controller PAC-3500
Alarm system sensor
Two auto up/down window controllers
Dual DIN Kenwood touch screen stereo/DVD

I also have two flashers, one horn relay, and two headlight relays mounted on the back of the firewall near the clutch master cylinder. I still have to figure out where to put my alarm system/keyless entry module and VHX gauge computer. I think they're going above the glove box somewhere.

The ECU is kind of "buried" under the console box and I'm worried about overheating it. So I plan to duct air into it from the side of the console (beside the seat) and put a fan somewhere in the rear to pull air over it. I called Holley about power dissipation of the ECU and they really didn't know, but one guy estimated it at around 80-100 watts. That seems high to me for mostly driving injectors, and what's probably a low clock rate, so perhaps he's being conservative. Does anyone have a better estimate?

I built a box out of aluminum too, and the Holley ECU laptop connector will be inside of it. And yes, there is room for the shifter ;).

Here's some pics:

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4599&stc=1

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4600&stc=1

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4601&stc=1

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4602&stc=1

I plan to do a little more work in the rear, but I need to get moving on other stuff and I can do some of this later. I just wanted to be sure I had room for everything. Also, I have to figure out how to duct my A/C and heat in the front of the console. Somehow I have to re-direct the center outlet that goes down under the dash back up to my vents in the valence. The heat has to come out of the sides of the console. And I have to be able to remove and install the thing! :O

[chevynut]

Not a lot to update but I did get the console box finalized and welded up. I made it a little longer toward the rear to give me a little more storage room. The interior of the box is probably going to be covered with felt, leather or something like that.

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4620&stc=1

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4621&stc=1

I think I'm going to try to finalize the shape of the dip behind the lid and in front of the rear seat and make the brackets to attach the rear section to it. I hope my interior guy can deal with the removable rear section ok. I really don't think I can finalize the shape of the section from the front of the rear seat back to the "package tray" until the rear seats are done. My interior guy said to shape it and he'll make the seats match, but I don't think that's the right way to do it. I'd rather let the seats drive the console shape. :)

[Troberts]

Looking awesome!

[rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017]

Ditto!!!!^^^^

[OLKY55]

Not to sound critical, because you're way more talented and creative than I and what you've done is outright amazing. I know it would be difficult, but did you think about curving the face below the dash? Again, I'm hesitant to post the question, because it's way beyond my abilities and I don't want to sound critical, but I wonder how it would look if the face where the AC outlets are mounted was curved into the dash.

[chevynut]

Olky55, I wish I could do that. I think Robert and I discussed doing something like that but I don't think I have the patience or ability to make something that complex out of steel or aluminum. I could have probably made it out of foam and fiberglass but I'm already tired of messing with this thing. :)

I think when I get everything finished it will flow nicely as it is. I'm probably going to try to bend the valence to fit the console this week.

[chevynut]

Again it doesn't look like I did much, but I took care of a lot of details. I took it all apart, enlarged screw holes, did some final fitting, etc. Everything is mocked up now, much of it with permanent fasteners. I removed some clecos, drilled holes, and installed PEM inserts and screws in their place. I also finished plug welding the floor brackets that the console is screwed to that were just tacked before. I did some more work on the rear section and installed some PEM inserts in the seat frame to attach the console to it. The clecos on the sides will be replaced with flush aircraft rivets once I'm sure I don't need to disassemble it anymore.

This console was a little trickier to build than it looks. It's 8 3/4" wide in the front and around the radio. The base transitions to 7" wide in the between the front and rear seats as you can see in the pics below. Also, the console lid is 7 1/2" wide so it has to transition narrower vertically too. This required some slight bends in the right places and trapezoidal shaped bulkheads and electronics boards. It will also require me to fab a tapered top plate.

I removed the seats so it was easier to work on. Here's the base plates ready to be installed...it sure looks long :):

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4706&stc=1

I shaped and trimmed the rear end of the front section to make a joint which will be mostly hidden by the rear seat. This way I don't have to try to handle the thing in one long piece. Here's the bare framework installed, as well as the rear pieces fitted, again showing the proposed outline of the rear seat:

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4707&stc=1

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4708&stc=1

Here's another pic of all the electronics stuffed in there showing the shifter hole and a round hole for the wideband O2 sensor wires, vss wires, exhaust cutout wires, backup light wires, and anything else going to the tranny...notice the two window controllers are stacked cuz there wasn't room for both of them :p. I also added the bus bars to the breakers:

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4709&stc=1

Here's the full assembly so far with the lid closed:

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4710&stc=1

Not sure how my upholstery guy wants to deal with wrapping the leather over the edge at the lid, but I left a gap of about 1/16" to do that. Hope it works. :eek:

I'm now tackling the long-delayed task of fitting the valence sections to the trim pieces and the face of the console. I've been dreading doing this for a while for fear of screwing up the valence, but it has to be done. ;) There is a 3/8" radius and two 45 degree bends that have to be formed just right to fit over the ends of the trim. I bent one today and had to tweak it a little, but it looks pretty good. Not sure how I'm going to make sharper corners on it since it's made of .063" aluminum and the radius is bigger than I wanted it to be.

[Custer55]

It looks great, It's all those little details that take the most time!!!
Brian

[chevynut]

Well I did it. It was a PITA but I got it done. The first 45 degree bend I could do on my brake without too much trouble. The second one I could not. Even with the finger brake the valence hit the upper finger. So I had to improvise. Here's what the edge needed to look like. This piece fit perfectly.

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4711&stc=1

I got close with the brake, but I still needed to tweak it afterwards to get a perfect fit. I took a piece of 1/2" steel plate and ground a bevel of the right width on it. Then I used that to form the bend.


http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4712&stc=1

Here's what I had to do to make the second bend:

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4713&stc=1

Here's after the first side was done...I'll need to tweak the radius a little to match. My router bit was 3/8" radius and I made the INSIDE of the valence at 3/8" and should have been the outside:

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4714&stc=1 http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4715&stc=1 http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4716&stc=1

Here's how they fit the console:

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4717&stc=1 http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4718&stc=1

I will need to do the final fitting once I figure out how I'm going to finish these pieces. They're really close now, and a little primer or something will make them fit really well. Pretty happy with how this turned out. I still have to trim the part behind the trim piece under the dash. Then I can make the fasteners for the valence and connect it to the dash.

[chevynut]

Today my new Vintage Air Gen IV A/C unit arrived and I got it fitted. I'm sure glad I ditched the cable unit because this one works out so much better in my application. The downside is I have to weld mounting studs onto my finished firewall, and make up all new interior hoses. But it clears the radio and the 4 vent outlet will make it a lot easier to duct air to the valence vents.

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4730&stc=1

I also got the mounting holes for the valence drilled through the bottom of the dash (what a pain!) and now I need to install some kind of nuts above the dash lip so they're not loose and to make it easier to install. Don't know if I'll use PEMs or some other nuts I have.

[WagonCrazy]

Is it possible to hate a process so much, and have it turn out looking so good? You've done it here. Thumbs up!

[chevynut]

Thanks Paul! I think I can see light!

[WagonCrazy]

Not to be critical, but got to ask a question about how you plan to transition the ends of the valance to the door.
As it stands, looks a bit awkward to my eye.
4732

[Rick_L]

I'm a little confused. Some of the photos show the vent bezels fitting very nicely in the valence, others look like the bezel fit still needs a lot of work. Are there some photographic or optical illusions, or are those still needing some more work? What really confuses is that some of the earlier photos look better than the later ones. ?????

[chevynut]

Rick, the "bezels" are nothing but paper prints of the actual size ovals that I drew the lines on with a Sharpie. Then I taped them in place. :)

Paul, I've not addressed the ends yet. Keep in mind that there's a windlace retainer and windlace in that area so the valence really won't overhang onto the door. I adjusted the valence position fore and aft on both sides such that the gap between the valence and the door jamb is the same. It leaves the small triangular opening that you see in some of the pics. Not sure how I'm going to deal with that, but there will be a kick panel behind it.

[DocHarley]

Awesome work Chevynut. Wish I had your talent.

[chevynut]

Thanks Doc! I'm always excited to start a new phase of a project, but at this point I'm ready to move on to something else. I've been working on this interior for several months. Maybe I'll start polishing suspension parts. :)

[chevynut]

Got my inside A/C lines routed and cut today. Still need to get them crimped.

The Gen IV water hoses need to have a -10 nut on them instead of the beaded copper line like the older unit. So I cut off some 5/8" ID A/C fittings and put the hose on them. I found that some A/C fittings have a pretty small ID and I didn't want to restrict the hot water so much.

I ended up having to flip my bulkhead upside-down to put the liquid line at the bottom to make routing work out easily.

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4748&stc=1

Then I made a 1/8" aluminum plate for the inside and ran the lines....

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4749&stc=1

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4750&stc=1

The other hole is for my cruise control cable ;)

Now I have to remove it all and have the fittings crimped. I will need to relocate the liquid line on the other side, but I think that's no issue. I think the routing turned out pretty good.

[chevynut]

In case this will help anyone, here's a pic of of the firewall side of my VA Gen IV A/C showing how I ran my A/C and heater lines.


http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4751&stc=1

[chevynut]

I used some Gates PowerGrip clamps from NAPA for the 4 under-dash heater hose connections. Pretty cool things! ;)


http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4776&stc=1

[chevynut]

Since you guys gave me so much grief about the ends of my valence I figured I'd better do something about it. :) I started trying to fab something up yesterday and finished it today. I think it cleans things up pretty well.

This is what I stated with on both sides:

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4787&stc=1

First of all, I realized that my dash isn't centered very well. You can see in the pics below where it sits relative to the windlace retainer. So I had to compensate for that.

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4778&stc=1

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4779&stc=1

First I formed some cone-shaped pieces out of aluminum:

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4780&stc=1

Then I made some end caps out of aluminum:

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4781&stc=1

Then I welded the end cap on and fit it to the dash. I made some adjustments here to address the difference in gap from side to side.

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4782&stc=1

Then I trimmed the cone-shaped piece to fit and cut out the hole to weld it into:

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4783&stc=1

After some sanding and fitting, it looks like this:

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4784&stc=1

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4785&stc=1

And here's the passenger side:

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4786&stc=1

I still haven't decided what to do as far as finishing the valence. In doing this I found out how different these cars are from side to side and how hard it is to make things LOOK the same on both sides. I had to make some adjustments in the valence halves to come to reasonable solution and uniform look.

As you can see, I have to do some more work on the bottom of the dash to make it smooth and straight. There will probably be a stainless or some other type of trim piece on top of the valence to cover the gaps between it and the dash...no piping ;).

[DocHarley]

I liked the first design better. :p Just kidding.

Looks perfect too me. Great job!

Any chance you could make two dash valence and consoles and sell me one? :cool:

[Kswartz]

Nice job, looks great.

[MP&C]

Nicely done Laszlo!

[WagonCrazy]

I like it. Flows much better. Looks like it was supposed to be there from the beginning...not just an aftermarket add on. Keep going man.

[carls 56 (RIP 11/24/2021)]

you did good, nice work. :cool:

[chevynut]

Here's a pic shot from the back of the car showing the whole valence.

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4790&stc=1

[DocHarley]

Awesome!

I bet a lot of people copy your design, including me. :)

[chevynut]

Well I'm about to wrap this up so I formed the lower valence to fit the molding in front, and made some new ""vents" and installed some stuff to see what it all looks like. I'm pretty happy with it and I think i'm going to put some thin fiberglass cloth over the moldings to seal the two halves together. I guess I need to get the real vents ordered (~$100 each!) Then I will need to prime or do something to the valence so I can sand it perfectly flush with the moldings. Also, I will need to build up the area between the column trim and valence with something so there's no gap there. I plan to add either polished stainless or painted trim at the black line you see at the top of the valence. These details drive me nuts. ;)

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4827&stc=1

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4828&stc=1

[rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017]

That last shot brings it all together looking great!!!

[DocHarley]

Will the AC vents in the arm rest be functional?

[chevynut]

Will the AC vents in the arm rest be functional?

No, my plan is to fill those openings and cover them with leather. I thought about making them functional and I probably could have, but I decided I've messed with this long enough and I probably will seldom have any rear passengers anyhow.