Who has a rack and pinion installed and running in a Tri-5?
(This is not a thread about should you, but rather a thread about who has.)
Thanks!
j
Who has a rack and pinion installed and running in a Tri-5?
(This is not a thread about should you, but rather a thread about who has.)
Thanks!
j
Jim,
I have a corvette rack/pinion (complete '96 Corvette F/R suspension) installed on a custom frame for the '57 I'm building, but it's not 'running' as yet.
Note: Most 'factory installed' rack n pinion setups are 'front steer', whereas our old trifives are 'rear steer' from the factory. A change (and the associated issues) to RnP with our cars primarily involve decisions with this difference.
Mine has a 90 Vette rack along with the 90 Vette front & rear suspension I converted to about 3 - 4 years ago. Works great because it's with the suspension it was designed for.
Yeah my curiosity is based on; Are the only guys running RnPs on this site guys with Vette front suspensions? Or are there any out there running them on the original Tri-five frames?
I realize that most of the opinions on this site are against RnPs on standard frames, but I bet there are some guys out there doing it. My guess is they just don't talk about it because of the strong suggestions against it.
When searching for a car, I drove every decent Tri-Five within a 3 state area I could get my hands on. I drove several RnP conversions on standard frames. So I know they are out there.
I just wonder how many people are doing it on this site, especially as compared to the Vette front suspensions.
Just curious that's all. I like all types of restomods.
j
Most people I've heard of who have added RnP steering to a Trifive (with rear steer) have reported issues (turning radius, etc), BUT there have been a few who report NO issues and good results. I'm unsure and have insufficient information as to what the different RNP racks that were used or what other differences there may have been.
Someone recently reported they had good results, it was either here or the other site...
My 57 has a ‘92 Buick r&p with power steering unit from a 70’s Camaro. Install is custom fabricated mounting on the ‘57 Chevy frame. Steering column is a cut off original (removal of steering box) shortened so aftermarket stainless steering joints and a stainless stub shaft Between joints connect to the rack and pinion unit. The steering arms required shortening to enable full turn of the wheels. I read a lot prior to this installation that voiced a big concern on bump steer. I must say I do not experience any such ill effects. It does how ever steer a bit too easy because of the power steering unit but is ok.
Maybe a front sway bar to control body roll a bit in the turns. The aftermarket prices for a bolt in version scare me away. Being the car is done cutting and welding wouldn’t be a path I’d take. If you are familiar with the upscale cars (Mercury, Olds and Pontiac) of the 70’s the steering effort is real easy like they were. But knowing the Nomad wagon is not a sports car it’s fine. After all it’s still far better than the original set up. To make a big difference the whole suspension would need to be addressed to handle like a modern car. But modern car feel was not my goal. I wanted a ‘57 that somewhat drove like a ‘57. If I want modern sports car I’ll drive the ‘16 Corvette.
I am running Unisteer Rack and Pinion on both of my 55 wagon frames and have had no issues at all. I am using Dynatech Headers for early Camaro's on both cars and there is good clearance for the steering components
That looks great, but I would love to see how you are going to route your steering shaft?
I agree with RD.... that almost 90 deg angle for your steering linkage will prove to be an issue I would think... but maybe you will show us something? :)
I don't have any pictures of the first wagon which has been on the road for a couple of years, but I use a double "U" joint and then a longer DD shaft in to the steering column. There is no binding and everything turns smoothly. It is so darn hot here in Southern California I am not going out in the garage until things cool down. Maybe then I will see what kind of picture I can get on my finished wagon.
I braved the heat and took this picture. It is the best shot that I could get with all the hydroboost lines.
Not to say the C4 front steer rack is a better setup, but the steering shaft is a lot easier to line up between the column and the rack. Slight bend at the first joint, and almost a straight shot to the rack. U-joint phasing/angles can be an issue just like a driveshaft. With extreme angles the steering shaft will speed up/slow down as it rotates make the front wheels turn at different rates as the steering wheel moves.
Here are a good tech article on steering rack geometry, and another on u-joint angles.
http://www.woodwardsteering.com/PDF/...on%20guide.pdf
http://www.woodwardsteering.com/PDF/...d%20Shafts.pdf
Attachment 11234
I like the angle of the dangle on RD setup better, I have always thought if you want a rack go C4 otherwise 500 box.