I really want to add some much needed strength to my 55 Attachment 9680Attachment 9681Attachment 9682Attachment 9683
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I really want to add some much needed strength to my 55 Attachment 9680Attachment 9681Attachment 9682Attachment 9683
Tried to edit my post, and all of the text went away. Anyway I am trying to come up with a plan to install a 10 point plus roll cage in my 55, and make the car a little safer, and stiffer. I've been struggling since I started this project for a good plan. I talked to S & W racecars, and they were very helpful. I will probably use them for most of it even though I have a 1 3/4 mandrel bender from my last project, and can make some bars. I want to build the cage so it can be bolted to the frame, and free to lift the body if needed. My Camaro has a very stiff chassis, and makes you feel like part of the car. It took me 4 tries, and 40 feet of tubing for the main hoop though. I have a few months until a body shop can get me in, so this might be an interesting project to get started on while I wait even though there are plenty of other issues to address. It's a little like trying to build a ship in a bottle, and the windshield post dash area is hard to do and look good.
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My 10 point S&W roll cage showed up the other day. I don't think the Fed-x guy was happy with 6 different bundles with one weighing 70lbs. Every piece will need to be cut to fit, or modified, so yesterday I decided to try the easy part. and get the main hoop inside the car. I used PVC to mock up for the 2 holes through the floor pan, hopefully in the right place. Lined up parallel to the B pillar and set back a ways for seat clearance. Will have to try the roof halo next to see if it's not back too far, but I'm 6'2". This is not going to be an easy project, but something else to do, and learn while I wait in line for the body shop.
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2 down, 8 to go
RD? Are you building a street car or a racer/round tracker? :)
Just barely a street car, that can turn fast left and right. I need to eliminate a lot of stuff to offset the couple hundred pounds the cage will add though. No air, no power brakes, or anything except steering. Probably no side windows, or rear seat either. Thinking 2 aluminum race seats with 5 point harnesses. It will be a fair weather car and will be a complete driving car in primer before I take it back apart for paint to make it pretty. Starting off with an iron block LS engine 4L60-E, and will get a aluminum block engine at some point down the road to shave some weight off the front. I would like to keep the weight under 3200lbs. It's already taking too long, and costing too much so I need to keep it simple if I ever want to drive it like I stole it.Quote:
Originally Posted by BamaNomad
Sounds like a get it low, wide tires, heavy suspension AUTOCROSS car... :) Would be interesting to see a big heavy (or so everyone thinks) 55 Sedan beating sports cars on an autocross / slalom track...
I know what you're saying, my '55 2drht is the same weight as my '04 Honda Accord and is within inches of the overall size!!Quote:
Originally Posted by BamaNomad
If it was me I'd be building a custom cage with a tube bender, not using a kit that has to be cut up and welded back together. Also, I would add the AME center section to the frame to keep it from flexing if that was the concern. That actually would probably negate the need for a cage and wouldn't add nearly as much weight and take up space inside the car. GM didn't use a cage, so obviously one is not needed.;)
You don't "cut and weld back together" if using an S&W cage kit. You trim the tubing to the length you need and notch the joints. One doesn't splice the tubing on a new build. You might if modifying or repairing an old build - but if you want it to pass any racing association's tech, that's just not done. There's been plenty of race cars built with S&W kits, no problem there.
Now, whether a 10 point cage is practical for a street driven car is another discussion. I certainly wouldn't. I'm not into faux race cars. Race cars are meant to be raced.