Had her delivered on Oct. 18’th as a surprise from my wife!! I cried like a baby! :)
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Had her delivered on Oct. 18’th as a surprise from my wife!! I cried like a baby! :)
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That's a sweet looking ride.
I like it.. :)
Nice!
nice 55, sweet wife. both keepers.
Thanks guys! I love the car although I haven’t had a chance to enjoy it much since it’s winter! I did make a short video though- https://youtu.be/JrPshQQ3Nls
I like the paint scheme.
That's a bad ass Looking 55 Chevy .
The only thing I see not correct is the Vin Tag they are Spot welder on( Never came with Pop Rivets holding them on )
Thanks Sid
That's not an original GM tag either, probably a state issued one, so all is probably OK there.
If purchased out of state and subject to verification in new state it may get complicated.
Not sure what the tag is suppose to be, it’s partially painted over also. I’ve seen pics tags online with pop rivets. Had zero problems with registering etc...
The factory did not rivet VIN plates on these cars they were spot welded. An alert state inspector know this and will not accept riveted plates. State assigned plates have special rivets and may be attached in other locations. Bama is correct about the partial vin on drivers side frame rail because when questions arrive that is where they go.
Looking at the photo that shows the VIN plate, I'm now not convinced that it isn't the original, but with rivets. Just partially painted, crummy masking job. The shot is by no means a closeup, and I didn't try to zoom in.
As far as inspection, I'd say it's a pretty good bet that many "inspectors" don't know what they are looking at.
I’m pretty sure it’s a stock VIN plate that they didn’t mask for painting very well. I suppose it’s remotely possible it was a exported car that got brought back here as they did have riveted VIN plates. I’ve had two out of state vehicles inspected in the last five years and I read the VIN number to the deputy both times. I can assure you they wouldn’t have had a clue if it should be riveted or not. I also know of a VERY nice Nomad that’s passed through Barrett Jackson twice bringing north of $200K with a riveted VIN. I think as long as it doesn’t show up in the database as stolen there won’t be too many questions asked. At least not in my neck of the woods.
On a 64 year old car, forget about it. There are very few parts of many cars that old that are not original.
The plate was actually painted over and someone scraped it off to see Vin better. The car was listed at a reputable dealership for sale and I have the title from previous owner. She’s registered now so if I get a chance I will try to get numbers off the frame but that won’t be easy. Either way I’m happy with the car, she’s nowhere near original. She’s missing Bel Air trim also but I wasn’t looking for an all original car. Anyways thanks for bringing it to my attention!
Not many of these cars have the original frame anymore, so checking the VIN on the frame is not that accurate. It's easy to buy a junk car with a title and a good frame and move the VIN tag and frame over to a different body. It's probably not legal, but easy to do. I really don't know how picky they are nowadays about how the VIN tag is attached on a 60 year old car. A lot of these cars have dropped their VIN tags due to corrosion over the years. If it was me I'd epoxy it back on.
Slotrifive, you have a bad ass 55 there!
Not the point, originality in a VIN plate is important when you get a knowledgeable state inspector. There is a legal process you must go through when you replace a frame its called assembled vehicle title. Now I know most guys ignore it and do it anyway. But think about the consequences if the car you got the frame from had been reported stolen. The state police here used to have a SS 454 shop truck that had been wrecked, rebuilt with some hot parts, then confiscated. My buddy that work there told me when they were done with it would be crushed.
I don't see anything on the exterior of the car indicating that the car is a Bel Air. It's 210 all the way - including the trim around the side windows, the long spears on the quarter panel, no spears on the front fenders, and the Chevrolet script on the front fenders. Does the VIN begin with "VB" or "B"? That's correct for a 210. "VC" or "C" would be correct for a Bel Air. The cowl tag would also have a body style number that's different between 210 and Belair. 210 would be 1011 or 1011D, Bel Air would be 1011A.Quote:
She’s missing Bel Air trim also but I wasn’t looking for an all original car.
I'm betting all these guys with Morrison frames and Roadster shop frames and home-built replacement frames don't go through that "legal process". No such process exists where I live.
Slotrifive, this happens here regularly. Seems like some people just look for stuff to criticize and argue about. Nice 55, and I hope you have fun with it.
You are absolutely right. You have a nice car and we are very glad you are here.
You will find a lot of knowledge, help, craftsmanship and strong personalities :).
Welcome to the fray and I hope you stick around. Oh and make sure you ask Chevynut about whether he likes a Holley or Edelbrock carb better. ;)
So jump in Slot, the water is nice and the sharks just nibble.
Scorp
Most of the comments here, and the ones here on this thread, are in the vein of 'education' rather than criticism.. Many new trifive owners (especially first time trifive owners at this point 60 yrs after the cars are produced) are not expert in the details/idiosyncracies of the trifive Chevy or of the hobby. I know that when I make observations, it's in the interest of educating the owner (and sometimes ourselves, via the discussion)... If we make suggestions, it's in the interest of helping the owner ... not criticism! In this case, I'm taking it that he has stated that he is NOT INTERESTED in these details... so that's fine too! :)
I don't think it's true that "not many" have the original frame. Most do. Buying a junk car with a title and good frame and moving the VIN tag is not what most do either. If replacing the frame, you just do it. And that doesn't seem to be illegal, nor is an aftermarket frame. What's illegal is moving the VIN tag from one body to another. What's questionable is a total re-body deal like Real Deal Steel or Woody's do, keeping only the cowl where everything else is replaced. Thing is, the laws regarding this are aimed at totally different activities, like "chop shops" do with stolen stuff.Quote:
Not many of these cars have the original frame anymore, so checking the VIN on the frame is not that accurate. It's easy to buy a junk car with a title and a good frame and move the VIN tag and frame over to a different body. It's probably not legal, but easy to do.
I have more than a dozen 'collector cars, including 6 TriFives. I purchased all of them on their original frames and with original VIN plates. The 1957 I'm currently working on now sits on an aftermarket chassis/frame. In doing that, when I removed the factory frame, I photographed the original frame, with closeups of the VIN on the frame. I have the receipt where I purchased the aftermarket chassis. I believe with this information, my 'legal ownership' of the car could/would NEVER be questioned.
PS. I SOLD the original frame/chassis from the '57 Nomad, but when I did I 'XXXX'ed out the factory VIN on that frame to prohibit anyone in the future from attempting to register another car with the VIN from my car.
Ok guys so help me out here. Based on what Rick_L posted style 1011 and 1011D would be a 210 and 1011A is a Bel Air but looking it this page it’s showing the opposite for 1011D and 1011A. So what is the correct answer??
http://www.trifive.com/specs/19.%20Original%20Specs.pdf
Bamai is correct about the intent to educate I think if you all would check your state laws most of you would find ones similar to what I describe. I learned what I know from a friend who has turned wrenches on state police cars and my personal experience. Yes some states don't care that is why others are more picky about out of state stuff.
I *think* the 1011 just implies the body is a 2-dr Sedan, and the A, B, C suffix carries the trim/paint information. What information does your cowl tag information carry on it? What is the first two digits of your VIN? ALL of the information is there...
Your car doesn't have BelAir trim, but after 60+ years, *most* 2-dr sedans have experienced many changes, many/most of those changes have more to do with the owner's desires (or what parts he has?) rather than the way Chevrolet built the car! Most people today would not remove BelAir trim, but in the 60's that was done at times. More frequently today, people add various pieces of BelAir trim to their 150 or 210 model..
I’m not sure what mine is i have to look however like i said based on that link 1011D would be a Bel Air while 1011A is a 210. I’m just trying to figure out how to understand these tags not necessarily for my own car but just in general.
One confusing GM fact about 'body styles' is that there are MULTIPLE code designations, depending on what you are looking for, and where you look.
*almost every aftermarket supplier, and even some enthusiasts have their own 'code sheets' which try to clarify this stuff; the link here is from Paddock which isn't bad... but none are totally complete.
//paddockparts.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/1955-57_Chevy_CowlTag.pdf
I generally refer to a book written by Pat Chappel titled 'The HOT one'...
As I STATED already in a prior post, '1011' designated 2-dr Sedan (2100 or 2400 series). (We don't have a lot of written/factual information re FISHER's designations!) Some GM documentation refers to the trim levels as '1500 series', 2100 series, or 2400 series also!
Fisher/GM trimmed out each body style in more than ONE trim level (except the Nomad and convertible which were ONLY trimmed out in the BelAir trim level - there might be other exceptions to this rule, but Nomads and Convertibles I know only came in BA trim). Most of the body styles were available in: 150 - lowest trim level, 210 - medium trim level, and BelAir - highest trim level.
In addition to this, these models could be painted in single tone, or two tone schemes, AND there were OPTIONAL paint treatments within the two tone paint schemes! (This is where the A, B, C... suffix codes are used). The EASIEST way to understand all this is to figure out how your own car came (using the available GM codes stamped on the VIN plate and Cowl tag), and other information available from the original car! Once you understand how your own car was built, and the codes involved, one can look at other cars to figure the rest of it out. (I've been doing this for 50 yrs and it's still confusing at times! .. esp with the A, B, C suffix codes along with the fact that different Fisher plants didn't all follow the same codes!)
Example for the TWO different body style/model codes I've referred to above using the NOMAD which I'm most familiar with: If you refer to the documents available, either GM or one like you referenced.. The Nomad is referred to as: 2429 - 2 dr BelAir Nomad wagon. But on the Fisher cowl tag, a Nomad is referred to as STYLE 1064DF. A Nomad can be either single tone, or two tone painted, and in addition to that in some cases the paint colors on two tone cars can be 'flipped', so that the upper / lower colors are swapped!
One can either spend a LOT of time figuring out all these codes/names/etc (which is what a lot of us 'original types' like to do!), OR... you can just drive/enjoy your car without worrying about it! :)
If you want to know about your car, provide us the first two digits from your VIN number, and the unique information from the cowl tag and we can help you.
Slotrifive, you're right on the body codes, I screwed up. 1011 is 210 2 door sedan, 1011A is Del Ray/210 2 door sedan, and 1011D is Bel Air 2 door sedan. In my little head, I wanted to put the "D" with the Del Ray.
The only references I've seen for the 'A, D, F, etc' suffixes are on the Paint and Trim charts, but without explanation or definition as to what each means. I think any observations that can be made must be made by looking at all the codes and 'trying to figure it out'?? OR am I wrong and there IS a GM document which clarifies what each of these suffix codes mean??
VIN tag on A pillar says it all for V8 cars VAXXXXXX is a150, VB xxxxx is a 210 and VCxxxxx is a Belair, for 6 banger models just remove the V.
I have a book, "Chevrolet 55-56 Restoration Guide" which is reprints of all sorts of GM literature. 480 pages of it. That's where I confirmed the 1011/1011A/1011D codes which are as slotrifive said, not what I originally said. There are no 1011B or 1011C codes. All these 1011n codes are for 2 door sedans, other body styles have different numbers. And I've seen these in other sources.Quote:
OR am I wrong and there IS a GM document which clarifies what each of these suffix codes mean??
I think the suffix codes you refer to are after the trim and paint code numbers, not the body style numbers. Also I think that not all body plants used suffixes on trim and paint.
And there are the A, B, C codes in the VIN as markm posted. VIN codes don't show body style, you have to get that from the cowl tag.