Fender filler panel Number 2 is complete..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uvnvZTTEbs
Fender patch is getting closer...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...man/image.jpeg
Printable View
Fender filler panel Number 2 is complete..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uvnvZTTEbs
Fender patch is getting closer...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...man/image.jpeg
Final tweaks ..... clamped and marked with a scribe..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204758.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204759.jpg
Trimming out the rust...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204760.jpg
14 ga rated Milwaukee shear walks right through...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204761.jpg
Trimming around the wired edging, careful not to nick it. The wrapped sheet metal is opened slightly using the door skin pliers..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204762.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204763.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204764.jpg
With the sheet metal loosened from the wire, a slight twist will break the sheet metal at the score even not having cut through to the wire.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204765.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204766.jpg
This outer section will become a template for the radius on the new patch.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204767.jpg
Trimmed....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204768.jpg
Fitted....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204769.jpg
Saturday Kyle will get the old metal media blasted next to the weld seam so we can fire up the TIG welder..
Nice work Robert. The underside still looks pretty pitted to me, is it all like that? Why is that patch so shiny? Looks almost like polished stainless.
That's the finish that polished wheels on the wheeling machine leave on the panel. They are 16 gauge cold rolled steel..
Time to break out the TIG welder. The new stumps for the upcoming metalshaping class work well as a welding table. The patch is securely clamped from inside to outside to get an accurate marking for tipping the fold around the wire.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...rman%20003.jpg
Flexible Spline is used to carry the opening mark down the patch...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...rman%20002.jpg
Tacked in with the TIG
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...rman%20005.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...rman%20004.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...rman%20006.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...rman%20008.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...rman%20010.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...rman%20012.jpg
Next we'll wrap the wire and trim the front edge to size.
The shop is hosting another Peter Tommasini class this year, one of the items to pass out to the attendees will be some of the rare earth magnets that we use. I just got my delivery in yesterday, these are Cup-26 magnets from Applied Magnets, they have a 65 lb pull. We use them for holding paper patterns to wheel wells during test fit to copper strip for welding backer..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...g/IMG_1760.jpg
We install a csk 10-32 and lock nut to act as a handle, and they are ready to use...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203240.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204863.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...g/IMG_1761.jpg
John has been assembling parts of the Biederman truck front end while waiting for the fender completion. He mocked up the hood the other day only to find out it didn't fit the cab as it should.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...n/IMG_1753.jpg
It looks like the cab is wider than the hood, as the radius does not match and it's pushing the hood outward and up....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...n/IMG_1747.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...n/IMG_1748.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...n/IMG_1755.jpg
To explain, this is a 1947 truck that had extensive rust in the cab. He found a cab on a newer truck, 1951 IIRC, that was made by the same company. It now appears the newer replacement cab is slightly wider than the original, so our intended option is to cut a slice from back to almost the front and add a pie slice to push the radius out and the beltline down where it belongs. Looks like an easier option than remaking the hood. Something else to add to the list. Just to make sure the wider cab doesn't affect fender fitment, we also mocked up the lower hood side and clamped the tapered filler panels and took a comparison measurement from the outside edges, front and back.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...n/IMG_1756.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...n/IMG_1757.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...n/IMG_1758.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...n/IMG_1759.jpg
So we have just shy of 3/8 more in the back, or 3/16 pushed outward on each side. I think we can live with that, it likely is well within factory tolerance.. More to come..
Well, I need to make a little progress on a 16 gauge fender, so the highly precise stand for the Laser Level was used. We have about 13-3/4" difference in height from back edge of fender to front edge. So Laser is set at 13-3/4 above the table, with heights verified to all four corners of the table.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...n/IMG_2327.jpg
Prior to trimming the front of the fender we had measured some reference marks to the front edge for locating the new cut line..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204760.jpg
Adding those lower edge marks back on our fender patch, we adjusted the height of the fender front for the laser to match those marks by sliding our jack stand fixture around inside the fender until we had the correct height. Hey, this is technical stuff!
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...n/IMG_2329.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...n/IMG_2332.jpg
And traced the laser mark with the sharpie...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...n/IMG_2334.jpg
Initial cut to remove the bulk was done with the Milwaukee shear, the final was done with Midwest Shears. I figured slower = more precise...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...n/IMG_2337.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...n/IMG_2338.jpg
Doing a test fit of the Biederman fender....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...n/IMG_2341.jpg
Was going to do a little bit of touch up on the front weld seam, needs more shape..
The fender spans about 53" at the bottom, where it wouldn't fit in the wheeling machine sitting on the floor. We added a lift kit under the legs, except for one which needed to be open under the leg..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...n/IMG_2346.jpg
in process....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IvsAkBLlG2o
Needed to wrap the wire edge....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...n/IMG_2351.jpg
Note the genuine John Deere anvil...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...n/IMG_2352.jpg
The flange was hammered over using various hammers and dollies (anvils) with the final wrap tightened up with a pair of vise grips modified with smooth jaws...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...n/IMG_2355.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...n/IMG_2356.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...n/IMG_2357.jpg
Those are some nasty looking vise grips! Looks like a fish I saw in the ocean. ;)
The chrome is still there, it's mainly just peeling paint..... :D
The teeth on the jaw was just about worn down, so they were ideal candidate for a vise grip mod....