Looks like the OEM part. Do you have it adjusted all the way out? If it's engaging too late, you'd want to shorten the adjustment anyway.
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Looks like the OEM part. Do you have it adjusted all the way out? If it's engaging too late, you'd want to shorten the adjustment anyway.
You should have some free-play when disengaged, which also adjusts the engagement point off of the floor, so yes it looks like you need too shorten the pushrod adjustment. If you make it longer, it would be worse. From your description it sounds like you probably don't have any free play, and the throw out bearing is riding on the pressure plate, which is not good, or the clutch is worn out.
Attachment 9173Attachment 9174Attachment 9175 Ok guys I added some more pitchers of my clutch linkage and it looks like the point where the clutch pedal rod connects to the Z-bar has been shortened to miss the steering box, now I know everyone says that shouldn't have to be but the new Z-bar I just got as the same except it hasn't been cut. Anyone can tell me what's been put on incorrectly that would cause this problem. HELP
If the z-bar was shortened that would change your ratio and cause more pedal effort. I had to move the short lever on z bar on my 55 to clear canister oil filter on 1965 BBC, but its still stock length.
Ok so after doing some research I have found that the power steering box is not a 605 but a Delphi 600, so with that being said is their a clutch linkage that will work with it?
As far as your original question on hydraulics, I've been extremely happy with the Howe hydraulic TO bearing in front of a Muncie with a 7/8th master. Tried a 3/4, but too long of a throw. It is so smooth and effortless, and one of the best clutch setups I've ever had on a hot rod. Only catch is I'm using Wilwood racing pedals, and a bent-finger diaphragm pressure plate designed for hydraulic clutches. Issue free for over 7 years now, with perfect take-up, and disengagement . Other than the pedal setup, the hydraulic throw-out bearing was easy to install following the instructions, with one line in, and a bleeder line out of the big hole in the side of the bell housing where the mechanical linkage was. Best part is, obstructions are not an issue!
Is the arm on the z-bar hitting the steering box on the side, or does the steering box prevent full travel?
Judging from the photos, I think the stock manual box might have the same problems.
So if you shortened the upper z-bar arm and left the lower one the stock length, the clutch will take more force to actuate.
A couple of fixes.....lengthen the upper arm back to stock length and put a jog in it and jog the upper pushrod to clear the steering box. You could also put a stock-length upper arm on it and move it toward the engine, and move the pushrod over with it....jog it if needed. OR, you could shorten the lower arm the same amount. The issue I see with the last option is the throw will get shorter....however it still might be enough.
Thanks for all the info and ideas, think first I am going to install my new Z-Bar setup and try moving the upper link over just a little and see if that works as that will be my cheapest option.