Good tip RD! How long does the vinegar/water mix *last*.. when exposed to sun/weather??
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Good tip RD! How long does the vinegar/water mix *last*.. when exposed to sun/weather??
What works great for de-rusting is phosphoric acid which is what's in most metal prep solutions. Muriatic acid is cheap and it works, but it leaves some rust as it dries (even after good rinsing) where phosphoric doesn't. A lot of guys used to use "milkstone rinse" (phosphoric acid) that you can get from Tractor Supply. However, they have to have it in the store and they won't ship it in for you. My local stores don't have it and for some stupid reason they won't get it for me. They act like their hands are tied.
I just checked again and it looks like you CAN get milkstone remove online at Tractor Supply now. I really let them have it when they said they couldn't ship it to my local store, so maybe they changed their policy on it. ;) In fact, they say now that they even STOCK IT in my local store...gotta go get me some. :)
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/se...tone%20remover
I don't care for Milkstone myself, it doesn't offer any protection after you rinse it off---because it isn't formulated for rust removal, its for milkstone removal from a stainless steel tank. You can get Safety Klean's Prep and Etch at Home Depot for a little more than what Milkstone costs, and its for use on steel for rust removal.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klean-Str...0220/100406369
Have you tried milkstone rinse Lee? I remember reading a lot of guys say it works great. Any idea of the concentration of phosphoric acid in each product?
No, I have had no reason to try it, it doesn't have any rust inhibitors in it, and that's because they are not needed for removing milkstone. They don't seem to make any claims as far as removing rust, but I believe there is probably plenty enough acid to do that. Not long ago prep and etch was around $10 at home depot, they jumped to $12 and now $15.78
I like evaporust for rust removal on cast iron, and for cleaning cast alum parts. Evaporust doesn't contain any acid, so it will rinse off much easier than phosphoric acid, and that is very important to do before epoxy. It would be expensive, but you would really like the way evaporust cleans alum--just let it soak a couple days--and its safe on any metal.
I removed all of the stickers and numbers from my Camaro for a redo on the graphics like Lightning McQueen, but some adhesive was left on the panels. Didn't really want to use any solvents on the pre-painted aluminum body panels, so I took some sticky Gorilla tape and stuck that to the glue, and after a few pulls it came off clean.
After drilling many holes with a hole saw over the years, a good tip is to NOT use the 1/4 inch drill in the arbor especially when drilling through thin sheet metal, or aluminum if you want your hole to be the right size. Drill the 1/4 in pilot hole separately, and then use a 1/4 drill rod in the arbor. Otherwise if you leave a drill bit in the arbor the pilot hole keeps getting bigger, along with the hole saw making for a much bigger uglier hole than what you planned. Today I needed to drill a 4 inch hole in the lower corner of my steel garage door for a dust collector port. I will just connect up my 3/4 HP dust collector outside to suck fumes, whatever right outside, plus I won't have to listen to it. Now I need to figure out what to do with a barely used 4 inch hole saw I will probably not use again.
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I finally got around to welding up a lifting beam to use for incremental moves using my cherry picker. since it is something I will use many times I wanted it to be easy to setup, and not put any extra stress on the sheet metal lift point with a vertical lifting angle. Just used steel I had laying around which was mostly 1 1/4 inch stuff. Since I only have one picker, I made it to use on both the front and rear of the body to slip 4x4 wood beams under it to use my undercar lift. Had to make a couple of C shaped brackets to get around the tail pan.
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