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Thread: Graphite 50 Anti Sieze

  1. #11
    Registered Member JT56's Avatar
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    Graphite 50 Anti Sieze

    Quote Originally Posted by Rick_L View Post
    The electrical contact between the sender and block is not your issue if it's pipe thread.
    Rick what are your thoughts. I have a PRC crossflow, system checks with no leaks. The gauge sender has its "own" wire. My electric fans run on a separate sender. I have taken temps with IR gun and thermometer in radiator, so I know the gauge is ready wrong. He said teflon wasn't the best thing to use for this application. Jake suggested I try this new sender, but use the Loctite stuff. If not then maybe the gauge is faulty. On CI website Jake is listed as an electrical engineer? I am putting a/c on this car and freek out when I see temps in the 212 to 230 range when its 49 degrees outside. BTW, checked my timing and I'm good there.I am hopeful this will fix the problem;if not then pull out gauges

    Joey

  2. #12
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    JT, it is possible, but not likely imo, that your teflon tape sealant is causing the reading error. Usually the pipe threads cut through the teflon and make good contact. BUt I would certainly try the other sealant to make sure.

    I'm really skeptical of IR gun measurements, because they are dependent on the emissivity of the surface you're measuring. Also, what kind of thermometerare you using in the radiator? Have you checked it for accuracy in a pot of boiling water?

    IMO I would go ahead with replacing the sender and using the Loctite sealant. If that doesn't change anything, you can go from there with the knowledge that the sender isn't your problem.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


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  3. #13
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    Is your sender screwed into an engine component?

    Put an ohmeter between the sender case and the block, or a good ground. If it reads any resistance at all, then you may have a case. I think it will read 0 ohms, if so that's not your problem.

    I would try the new sender next.

  4. #14
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    The other question might be the sender location. I have read that a sender in the head can read significantly higher than one in the intake. I think you're trying to get coolant temperature, not head temperature.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
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    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  5. #15
    Registered Member JT56's Avatar
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    Graphite 50 Anti Sieze

    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    JT, it is possible, but not likely imo, that your teflon tape sealant is causing the reading error. Usually the pipe threads cut through the teflon and make good contact. BUt I would certainly try the other sealant to make sure.

    I'm really skeptical of IR gun measurements, because they are dependent on the emissivity of the surface you're measuring. Also, what kind of thermometerare you using in the radiator? Have you checked it for accuracy in a pot of boiling water? I am using a turkey thermometer from Walmart. It was pretty close when I tested in the boiling water. Initially used the IR gun to check, but do understand the surface temp isn't the most accurate.

    IMO I would go ahead with replacing the sender and using the Loctite sealant. If that doesn't change anything, you can go from there with the knowledge that the sender isn't your problem.
    I was hoping this would be a process of elimination, just didn't want to buy the large jar of the 50. Will keep everyone updated. Thanks for all the reply's.

  6. #16
    Registered Member NickP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JT56 View Post
    The Loctite Graphite 50 is what Jake from Classic Instruments suggested I use. Here is the problem; my gauge is showing about 20 degrees higher than the actual water temperature. The sender has the correct pipe size without having to use a bushing. CI sent me another sender to change out. I currently used regular anti sieze, but Jake said to use the 50, since it will have better electrical conductivity than the regular.
    "LOCTITE® GRAPHITE-50™ • Highly electrically conductive,non-metallic anti-sieze • Highly electrically conductive in metal-to- to metal joints• Spark plugs onengines" -
    Seems like there may be something in what CI referenced as a product. http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...44342787,d.b2I
    However, the properties of the mechanical joint between male and female part (Sender & Cyl. Head or Manifold) certainly would indicate that fault lies more in line with the sender than the joint. By what you say it looks as though you had another temprature indicating device for a comparitive of readings - yes/no.

  7. #17
    Registered Member JT56's Avatar
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    Graphite 50 Anti Sieze

    Quote Originally Posted by NCW View Post
    "LOCTITE® GRAPHITE-50™ • Highly electrically conductive,non-metallic anti-sieze • Highly electrically conductive in metal-to- to metal joints• Spark plugs onengines" -
    Seems like there may be something in what CI referenced as a product. http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...44342787,d.b2I
    However, the properties of the mechanical joint between male and female part (Sender & Cyl. Head or Manifold) certainly would indicate that fault lies more in line with the sender than the joint. By what you say it looks as though you had another temprature indicating device for a comparitive of readings - yes/no.
    Its located in the intake( driver side of t-stat housing). The passenger side has a sender for electric fans. Yes have taken reading with another device. While I lowered the coolant level to change sender, wanted to make sure it wasn't a sealant issue. I have tried not using anything and I always have leaks.
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