Ryan's 57 4 door Belair Hardtop Project

[chevynut]

Didn't notice your question about the C4 rack but Custer is right.....17mm DD. Borgeson makes a universal joint for that. I used a 3/4" splined shaft from there to the column but I think a 3/4" DD shaft may be a better choice since you don't have to get the length exact when you order it. That's what I used for the Hemi55. Summit Racing has everything you need for the steering shaft.

Also, the swaybar link should be close to the coilover, but it should clear. The universal bushings shell should be slotted so you can move it forward as far as possible. Worst case you can go to a custom link. I thought I might have to do that but ended up using the stock one.

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[hurddawg]

Thanks Custer and Laszlo for confirming the rack size. I didn't mention it, but soon after posting I found the info in the Borgeson Catalog, they have a list of racks in there that they talk about for reference. Low and behold the c4 rack is one of them. I was thinking to use 3/4" DD as it looked easier to fit, as like you said, its cut to fit. I have the borgeson joints and shaft in my wish list. I decided to wait on buying them until I get a bit closer to that stage of the build.

Laszlo, thanks for reminding me on the sway bar mount, they are slotted. I'll try adjusting them to a get a bit more clearance, but making new ones doesn't seem too difficult.

Looks like I have most of what i need to start tig welding this week. My friend recommended to buy a gas lens for my torch and I picked up some 1/16" ceriated tungsten as well. He'll do the fuel tank welding and get me started on my way to TIG welding on my own.

Laszlo, what bushings are in your sway bar?

[chevynut]

Laszlo, what bushings are in your sway bar?

The bottom bushings are stock C4. The stock upper C4 link bushings use a metal shell that you're supposed to keep and put the poly bushings inside of. I decided instead to make some custom poly bushings, sleeves, and stainless spacers. I hope the swaybar doesn't cut through the bushings.....I think that's what the shell is for.

[hurddawg]

It looks great, hopefully it works out like you hope.

[hurddawg]

weldedtank.jpg

Last week I finally was able to link up with my buddy that TIG welds. He filled the tank up with Argon and went to town. As he did it he showed me some basics to get me started to welding. Otherwise not much progress otherwise. Hopefully I have a weekend here soon to work on it a bit, but might be a couple weeks until then. But I'm getting close to getting the tank mounted...just need to cut off the rear tabs on the tank and mount it up.

Engine and trans are close, just waiting on some parts for both, Had to get some pushrods as the ones on hand were a bit too long. Waiting on the dipstick for the trans so we can check the depth and put a dummy pan on so I can paint it.

[hurddawg]

Finally got the tank mounted in this morning.
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So with that out of the way, I'll start working on the brake and fuel lines. Is there an advantage to start one over the other? Also I was thinking on routing the fuel line on the driver side, rather than the passenger. Any disadvantages to doing it that way?

[55 Rescue Dog]

I routed my fuel line down the passenger side, but since I'm using a LS engine, I should have come up the drivers side. Brake line on the drivers side is the best route, since that is where the pedal is.

[Rick_L]

Run the rear brake line down the outside of the driver side frame rail since you'll have a dual reservoir master cylinder. No need in crossing over to the passenger side then part way back.

If you have an LS or LT1 engine, those have the fuel inlet on the driver side, so running the fuel line down the driver side is the simplest. If you have a carb, then passenger side is the simplest.

[hurddawg]

Thanks for the suggestions, guys

Gonna go with what is suggested.

[chevynut]

I ran my dual fuel lines down the outside of the passenger frame rail, and the brake line down the inside of the driver's side frame rail. It might have been easier to run the fuel lines on the other side, but it would have been crowded and it worked out this way. I also added a Wilwood proportioning valve part way back.

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[55 Rescue Dog]

I have the same tank, and I still can't believe I paid that much for it!
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[hurddawg]

Thanks for the photos guys! Yeah that tank is whopper as price goes, I hope its worth every penny.

Did a little bit today, pulled out the flaring and tube bender tools my Dad used when he did his Ford. Using the tools I managed to get the rear hardline done. Not the prettiest, but it turned out well enough I'm happy with it. Next I plan to run the line from the T fitting towards the front. Doing some route planning, I ended up removing the original parking brake cable brackets off the frame. I might work on the frame a bit tomorrow.

Summit had a sale recently and so I broke down and ordered rear the coilovers. Summit also had a pretty good price on Vintage Air Evaporator kit so I picked that up too. From buying the front springs, I learned that Ridetech used Hyperco springs, so this time I just ordered Hyperco ones and saved a few bucks that way.

Slowly but surely I'm chipping at it

[WagonCrazy]

It's looking great Hurddawg. Stay at it and post more pics as you go.

[hurddawg]

It's looking great Hurddawg. Stay at it and post more pics as you go.

Thanks Paul!

[hurddawg]

Soooo...whats the best way to remove a broken tap? Any suggestions for quick removal? I was tapping holes for the hold downs for the brake line and it was history. Biggest issue is probably because I was using a slightly undersized drill bit, rather than the recommended #21 (I'm tapping 10-32). New tap and drill bit on the way.