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Thread: Ryan's 57 4 door Belair Hardtop Project

  1. #121
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    There is such a tool as a 'broken tap' removal tool... I once had to buy one and use it... If the tap isn't too tightly embedded it will work...

    https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...nt=952-400-014

    You might be able to 'make something that will work if you get four small nail (which fit into the grooves of the tap, but not too tightly), then use pliers and grab all four nails and TURN the tap out (if you're lucky)...

  2. #122
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    Notice that the tap extractors that BamaNomad linked were for various numbers of flutes. A 3 flute tap is stronger than a 4 flute, and 2 flute stronger yet. Consider that with your new tap, as well as the recommended tap drill bit size.

    The worst one is a 6-32. A 6-32 tap has the smallest cross section of any tap. I remember an exercise in a hangar at Dallas Love Field years ago in my work where about a dozen of us were tapping 6-32 threads in aluminum. They couldn't find enough taps to replace the broken ones. Good news was the broken taps were easy to remove. Probably not so much with 10-32 in steel.

  3. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by BamaNomad View Post
    There is such a tool as a 'broken tap' removal tool... I once had to buy one and use it... If the tap isn't too tightly embedded it will work...

    https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...nt=952-400-014

    You might be able to 'make something that will work if you get four small nail (which fit into the grooves of the tap, but not too tightly), then use pliers and grab all four nails and TURN the tap out (if you're lucky)...
    Thanks for the link for the tool, I'll give the nail idea a try and if it doesn't work, I'll pick up the tool.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rick_L View Post
    Notice that the tap extractors that BamaNomad linked were for various numbers of flutes. A 3 flute tap is stronger than a 4 flute, and 2 flute stronger yet. Consider that with your new tap, as well as the recommended tap drill bit size.

    The worst one is a 6-32. A 6-32 tap has the smallest cross section of any tap. I remember an exercise in a hangar at Dallas Love Field years ago in my work where about a dozen of us were tapping 6-32 threads in aluminum. They couldn't find enough taps to replace the broken ones. Good news was the broken taps were easy to remove. Probably not so much with 10-32 in steel.
    Thanks for the info Rick, makes sense about the flutes...never really thought of it until you mentioned it. I'll steer clear of those 6-32 taps
    - 1957 Chevrolet 4 dr hardtop Bel Air Sierra Gold/Adobe Beige - Purchased July 5th, 2013
    - 1957 Chevrolet 4dr sedan 210 Larkspur Blue/India Ivory Sedan - Purchased Aug 6th, 2012 (not running)
    - 1957 Chevrolet 4dr sedan Bel Air Canyon Coral/India Ivory Sedan - Purchased June 30th, 2013 (not running)
    - 2017 Chevrolet SS Sedan - LS3 - TR6060 - Nightfall Grey Metallic - Purchased April 2017

  4. #124
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    A little bit more completed. I didnt have a chance to upload the photos, so I can post them, but I have most of the brake line run from the rear to front. Its not quite at the firewall, but within a foot or so.

    The broken tap ended up a mess, cost me a bruised knuckle as we ended up using a punch to punch it through. The new tap was a 3 flute and I could tell right away that it was a stronger piece. However I had to redrill in a new location for the hold downs. I'll have to weld those in later.

    Even though I was able to run the brake line up near the front, I'm thinking I may redo it. Near the beginning of the last section, the bends were complicated (for me) and I don't know if I like it. After I decided that was the way I was going to route the line and started bending, I realized later that there was an easier way. So I might reconsider what I've done.
    - 1957 Chevrolet 4 dr hardtop Bel Air Sierra Gold/Adobe Beige - Purchased July 5th, 2013
    - 1957 Chevrolet 4dr sedan 210 Larkspur Blue/India Ivory Sedan - Purchased Aug 6th, 2012 (not running)
    - 1957 Chevrolet 4dr sedan Bel Air Canyon Coral/India Ivory Sedan - Purchased June 30th, 2013 (not running)
    - 2017 Chevrolet SS Sedan - LS3 - TR6060 - Nightfall Grey Metallic - Purchased April 2017

  5. #125
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    Man didn't know it has been so long since I last updated this! Since the last post I did start working on the fuel system and got the FPR mounted near the tank using 8an. Then on the output of the FPR I downsized to 6an for the remaining run to the front. But I stopped and didn't work on it for a long while. Couple of weekends ago I ended up starting up on it again and started on the more complex sections of the fuel line run up to the front. In a weekend of cutting, bending and flaring I managed to get the fuel line past the suspension and on the outside of the frame. Unfortunately there was a few redos due to splitting flares, bad bends what have you
    - 1957 Chevrolet 4 dr hardtop Bel Air Sierra Gold/Adobe Beige - Purchased July 5th, 2013
    - 1957 Chevrolet 4dr sedan 210 Larkspur Blue/India Ivory Sedan - Purchased Aug 6th, 2012 (not running)
    - 1957 Chevrolet 4dr sedan Bel Air Canyon Coral/India Ivory Sedan - Purchased June 30th, 2013 (not running)
    - 2017 Chevrolet SS Sedan - LS3 - TR6060 - Nightfall Grey Metallic - Purchased April 2017

  6. #126
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    Last weekend I ended up finishing up running the fuel hardline up to the engine area. I haven't leak tested it yet and haven't made the flex line from the hardline to the engine either. I plan to hold off on making the flex line section until later.

    So now I'm gearing up to put together the exhaust. I bought most of the parts already...close to 2 years ago. So with some luck this weekend I'll have a better idea of how to route the exhaust and what else I might need.

    Separate subject...should I really consider better bracing in the center section of the frame? I was planning on the get go to go without it (the fab looked a bit daunting for me), but I've seen so many frames with AME style one or what have you...What are the drawbacks of not doing it? I realize torsional rigidity is the main 'upgrade' but I guess I'm unsure by increasing the rigidity is it just better suspension mechanics? or more along the lines of possible cracked windshields? torqued door jambs? I guess being a 4DHT I should consider this more of a priority? Any opinions or suggestions welcome

    I need to get some pics up!
    - 1957 Chevrolet 4 dr hardtop Bel Air Sierra Gold/Adobe Beige - Purchased July 5th, 2013
    - 1957 Chevrolet 4dr sedan 210 Larkspur Blue/India Ivory Sedan - Purchased Aug 6th, 2012 (not running)
    - 1957 Chevrolet 4dr sedan Bel Air Canyon Coral/India Ivory Sedan - Purchased June 30th, 2013 (not running)
    - 2017 Chevrolet SS Sedan - LS3 - TR6060 - Nightfall Grey Metallic - Purchased April 2017

  7. #127
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    IMG_3906.jpegIMG_3905.jpeg

    Took a couple quick shots of what I have completed over the past few weeks. I'm hoping to get some of the exhaust planned out a bit more over the weekend
    - 1957 Chevrolet 4 dr hardtop Bel Air Sierra Gold/Adobe Beige - Purchased July 5th, 2013
    - 1957 Chevrolet 4dr sedan 210 Larkspur Blue/India Ivory Sedan - Purchased Aug 6th, 2012 (not running)
    - 1957 Chevrolet 4dr sedan Bel Air Canyon Coral/India Ivory Sedan - Purchased June 30th, 2013 (not running)
    - 2017 Chevrolet SS Sedan - LS3 - TR6060 - Nightfall Grey Metallic - Purchased April 2017

  8. #128
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    looking good Ryan. that came out nice.
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  9. #129
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    Wow! Looking good.... I think Chevynut said he installed an AME center section for someone, if I recall correctly he said it was a little bit of a PITA when it came to doing the exhaust cutouts.. I'm planning to install one in mine, the difference in rigidity between the frame I pulled out from the pontiac vs. the chevy frame I put in is night and day... If I could've made the pontiac frame work with my C4 rear IRS I would have, but the frame was way too wide, and it would be too much work considering I'd have to re-do all the body mounts for the chevy floor.... Wish I could be working on mine, but I'm about to put it in the car hauler in preparation for my move out to Colorado this winter.

  10. #130
    Registered Member Troy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick_L View Post
    Notice that the tap extractors that BamaNomad linked were for various numbers of flutes. A 3 flute tap is stronger than a 4 flute, and 2 flute stronger yet. Consider that with your new tap, as well as the recommended tap drill bit size.

    The worst one is a 6-32. A 6-32 tap has the smallest cross section of any tap. I remember an exercise in a hangar at Dallas Love Field years ago in my work where about a dozen of us were tapping 6-32 threads in aluminum. They couldn't find enough taps to replace the broken ones. Good news was the broken taps were easy to remove. Probably not so much with 10-32 in steel.
    Wait until you break a 2-56 or an 0-80 tap!! You usually have to dam it up and use "Tap Out" to eat it away!!!! Talk about fun.

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