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Thread: 4 year electrical issue

  1. #21
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2013

    Member #:1485
    Location
    Brodhead, Ky
    Posts
    55
    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    What is the voltage at the "BAT" terminal while cranking? If it stays at 12V, the problem is your ignition switch can't handle the current needed for the ECM. You might need a relay in the "RUN" mode too. If the BAT terminal drops to 9V as well, your problem is between the ignition switch and battery. If the battery drops to 9V while cranking, you have a bad battery.
    I'll check voltage drop on battery tonight. I have a number of theories about what could be the problem such as ignition switch drops voltage to 9V during crank to IGN (which I could relay the IGN prongs to boost it back up to 12V), the mini starter may be draining to much voltage (but to just 9V???) or since my battery is in the trunk the 2/0 cable isn't carrying the required load or my battery could have went weak though I do all my testing with the battery charger hooked up.
    Josh

  2. #22
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2013

    Member #:1485
    Location
    Brodhead, Ky
    Posts
    55
    Voltage drop across battery during cranking was to 10V. Car fired almost immediately like it is suppose to. I may be out of gas but car did not stay running. Did it several times car would start, idle for various times then die. As long as I was feathering the gas it was fine. When it did idle it almost felt like a miss but was more like a stumble. I'm also not getting computer controlled idle adjustment at start up and braking. I get a flat idle whether it is freeze cold temps or hot. Something just isn't right.
    Josh

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