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Thread: How many hours for painting?

  1. #41
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Bill, you may be right. He did seem very interested in doing my paint and knows that I'll probably show it some.

    The sealer will be DPLF which is what he usually uses. My understanding is the re-coat time is 7 days, and that's without sanding. So he lets it cure for 2 days and sands it too. Seems like it should work well. He said it really does make a difference in a high-end job.

    I can see it now...blisters on my fingers from wet-sanding.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  2. #42
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    Laszlo, sounds like you found the right guy...
    Robert



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  3. #43
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    I finally got the estimate from the painter for my Nomad. He's a time and materials shop and charges $55 an hour for labor and a flat $4 per hour for supplies (sandpaper, masking paper, tape, buffing materials, etc.). We're planning to do the underside of the car, firewall, and under-hood sheetmetal in matte clear so it adds some different texture to the car and keeps everything from being so shiny. The bottom of the car is nowhere near flat and smooth so it will help tone that down some. It will also add a little contrast with the frame, which will be the same color as the car but in gloss clear.

    That use of matte clear adds more masking work to the body and other parts, but requires no sanding or buffing. The time estimate also includes coating my wheelwells with urethane bedliner, and painting the intake manifolds. There are two or three colors involved, so that adds masking time. I think I may have underestimated the time to mask everything between colors and between car sections especially for the body.

    I thought his paint labor time was a little high, at 56 hours total, which was about the same as my total including sand/buff labor. What surprised me was the sand and buff time estimate at 60 hours (show quality). That's a week and a half of full-time sanding and buffing, which seems excessive to me based on no experience doing it. However, this guy does great work so he should know what it takes. He's obviously a perfectionist.

    I think his paint time was a little high for all phases but again it was an estimate, not a quote. He estimated the frame paint at 10 hours, and I figured 6-8. Surely it can be done in one full-day shift when it rolls in on a rotisserie ready to shoot with sealer, base and gloss clear when it arrives. I don't plan to sand and buff the frame unless it absolutely needs it. Some of the other paint times seemed high to me too, and maybe he kind of planned for worst-case. He had 8 hours for the inner fenders, radiator cover, and intake manifolds all in matte clear. The radiator cover may be 2 colors so that will add time to what I estimated. I still think it's under a day's work for all that.

    Also, we discussed not using a sealer on the body after all. He said it takes more work, and it's not really necessary given that I will have a final coat of sanded K36 on the car. I mentioned I wanted some white under the orange to make it "pop" in the sun, and he suggested a white basecoat since it's thin, goes on very smooth, and doesn't need sanding. Do you guys think sealer is required?

    This was only an estimate, and the actual time could be significantly lower (or possibly higher). Obviously there's a little drying time here, but I think it's only 15 minutes or so between coats. It also doesn't consider me helping with handling, masking, sanding, and anything else I can do. He has no problem with me doing what I can and want to do. I may just paint the intakes and some other parts myself since I have the stuff to do it, although if it only takes a couple hours I may as well let him to it.

    I can't wait to get started. Gotta get moving on finishing up the interior construction, finishing the new shop, and get back to blocking the car so I can blow it apart.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  4. #44
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    Not sure what he's using, but today's urethanes have up to about 1 hour between coats. This time of year I have to run a torpedo heater to keep up on the heat. Painted some bus parts a couple weeks ago and had $75 just in Kerosene to keep the place up to temps.. I can imagine in your area that is an expense he has as well. Part of the "paint time" may be getting the parts up to temps, unless he keeps his shop nice and cozy all year round..
    Robert



    MP&C Shop Projects-Metalshaping Tutorials


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  5. #45
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    I am probably not in the majority here, but to me a "sealer coat" is for having a uniform color when you start shooting color. So that the color builds/hides evenly everywhere. I.e., no sand throughs.

    K36 is sometimes shot as a "sealer". Mixed with reducer similar to the way epoxy primer is mixed for use as sealer. If your final sanded coat of K36 has no sand throughs, this is effectively the same thing. I.e., there's nothing to "seal".

    Another compromise choice you may want to consider is to shoot an epoxy primer sealer coat using the DPLF48 which is white.

  6. #46
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Robert, yes I think he keeps the shop warm all the time since he has several projects in progress. I never thought about the frame being cold when it gets there, and having to warm up. But if I leave it for 24 hours in the corner it should be fine. Maybe I'll run it over on a Saturday and have him paint it on Monday or something like that.

    Rick, Matt said essentially the same thing as you said about sealer. If there's no color variation in the primer, you don't need a sealer. He said K36 is perfectly good to shoot over without a sealer. I have noticed that this orange color does change some with the color of the primer, particularly in the bright sunlight. For some reason he gave the estimate using sealer in some places but not in others, which I don't understand yet.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  7. #47
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    I just added up the bases, clears, reducers, and hardeners that my painter (Matt) told me I'd need and got a bit of a shock. I was expecting to pay $2000 or so for all the materials, and it came to around $3000 plus shipping. And that's just for paint, not masking and sanding/buffing!

    We're buying a total of 4 colors of basecoat, considering the 2 on the body, then some charcoal for the interior. We're also using white base under the colored base, instead of sealer to help brighten up the color in the sun. That's a total of 3 1/2 gallons of PPG DBC base.

    The frame will be body color with gloss clear. Then we're using both gloss and matte clear on the body. The matte clear will be used on the underside of the car, firewall, and inner fenders as well as the underside of the hood. We're mixing the flat clear with semi-gloss to get something in-between that he feels looks better. That's a total of 3 gallons of clear.

    Then you have all the various reducers, hardeners, etc. and I haven't even thought about the bedliner material for the wheelwells....it really adds up!
    Last edited by chevynut; 01-23-2015 at 12:03 PM.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  8. #48
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    I priced all my paint material locally and it came to $4800 plus tax. Holy sh!t. One gallon of the body color is $1168.45!
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  9. #49
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    Welcome to painting.


    I painted my motorcycle in 1996 and had almost 1000 in materials..
    Robert



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    Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom


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  10. #50
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    I thought your material costs might be pretty high - but they're even more than I expected.

    What clear are you using, and what's the product code on the flat clear? I didn't know PPG had flat clear premixed.

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