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Thread: wagon progress

  1. #411
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    Got started on drilling plug weld holes this evening, here laying out the hole patterns to align with the floor crossmember where possible...





    Once drilled to match our piloted burnishing brush, the paint surrounding the plug weld gets cleaned to prevent weld contamination..


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ELG55mmG2I0


    Robert



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  2. #412
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    Getting some seat brackets welded in ...



    Plug welding...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VofyZCliZRg



    But before we get all the front seats in and make it harder to access the back, lets get the seat riser plug welded in for the back seat...



    Next, our rear seat that came with the buckets was slightly oversize for our widened wheel wells. Some quick measurements showed we need to lose about 2" in width..





    Then the rear corners needed relieving for the wheel tubs.....







    Some 3/16 diameter stainless rod was used to reconnect the pieces in the new rear corners



    Some fire prevention for the foam..







    With both sides fitting individually, time to join our sides back together...





    Video of the surgery results....

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ingFICYYws

    With the overlap of material trimmed, this part is looking pretty good!

    Robert



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  3. #413
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    With the 55's rear seat bottom narrowed to fit the wheel tubs.....



    ....time to do the same for the seat back. First to blow it apart....



    This had a multiple fold down, arm rest in the middle, non 55 looking arrangement. The arm rest will be first to go, and we'll attach the fold down sections together..

    The frame is sectioned in the middle, a tube driven inside, and TIG welded around the perimeter..





    Then the seat innards are trimmed accordingly to make a one piece back..





    Then some 14 gauge strips are cut out to join the two sections together..



















    That should work, tomorrow we'll work on the new pivot brackets..
    Robert



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  4. #414
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    In removing the section of foam on the seat back we find the cushion has a wire around the arm rest void. As we are removing the arm rest altogether (when it gets reupholstered) we removed the wire..









    The previous pivot for the seats had a tapered pin hex bolt that secured into a hex nut that was welded onto the pivot bracket, which can be seen here:



    Due to our width constraints, we need to remove all that excess hardware.. So we chose to put the "securing nut" inside the seat, and use a simple pan head allen screw through the 12 gauge bracket.. Here's our Pivot "axle" inside the seat back..





    Here's the test fit of our 12 gauge steel pivot bracket. Radius was used on the bends to match the tube. The tube was originally round, and the side uprights were flattened out using the MH19 hammer to buy us some more clearance between wheel tubs..



    The bead shown on the bracket was done on the Lennox Nibbler.
    This should give us a bit of clearance on the edges to help prevent binding of the upholstery.


    Bead turned out pretty well for 12 gauge steel! Some TIG welding to put the parts together:







    Video of it in operation:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCcpqbF1jUU

    One part down, next we'll tackle the brackets to the floor.
    Robert



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  5. #415
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    Back in the shop this evening, time to make some bolting brackets to hold the seat back frame to the floor..


    Locating...





    Brackets TIG welded on....



    This shows it in place, we have about 1/4" clearance at the tight spots....

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jB5qRfP7IxY

    The cleco's were removed and 1/4-20 AVK rivet nuts installed in the floor... Missed that picture...





    Next will be the top support....
    Last edited by MP&C; 04-05-2017 at 09:23 AM.
    Robert



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  6. #416
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    Talk about "Content"! Wow! Your skills and attention to detail are superb Sir.

  7. #417
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    Thanks!


    Now for the top of the seat frame... We started with some 3/8-16 standoffs that are 5/8 diameter, and turn them to 1/2 diameter to fit inside the seat frame tube...
























    Then holes are drilled in some 1.25 square tubing...














    Tacked in place and a nut used for added insurance...



















    Seat latches plug welded in place...









    Side pieces formed....





























    The side pieces will be trimmed, fitted, and welded to the wheel well...




    Robert



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  8. #418
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    More work on the seat back bracket... Trimming the side pieces to match the
    wheel well...











    Adding welding flange, hammered out of 16 gauge steel..

















    Test drive....





    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mpFl01yHvKw





    Used the Roper Whitney hand punch to make our plug weld holes..





























    Next we'll close off the back area to contain the amp and bass speaker.
    Robert



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  9. #419
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    Had a short evening in the shop as I was busy packing the neon clock for shipment, so the remainder was spent working on some of the many final details of the rear seat. Here are the factory seat clips to hold the seat bottom in place.





    In order to use these, let's do a sample and see if we cut a hole in some sheet metal that they'll fit into..









    This looks like it will work, we'll get some 18 gauge strips made to hold these that 45 down to the floor, adding some bead details for strength..

    Robert



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  10. #420
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    Time for some brackets for the rear seat bottom retainers. Cut out some 19 gauge...



    Drilled some holes for an inside radius, and trimmed the corners for the floor pan flange..



    Now to fold some flanges on the sides for strength, using the Diacro press brake and a 1/2" thick lower die. By adding some rare earth magnets to the back side to serve as a back stop, we get a perfect 1/4" flange...





    Then some back and forth between the Erco kick shrinker and the press brake with a narrow die inside the folds.... and we have 45* bends on either end of our brackets...



    Test fit.... and trimming the retainer hole...











    Robert



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