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Thread: wagon progress

  1. #581
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    We did have the body blasted, and it did show as a slight inward depression, which would indicate blasting from the inside. Was right in the corner of the brace and interior light intersection.. So it looks like he sat too long in that one spot. Didn't see any such damage anywhere else.
    Robert



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  2. #582
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MP&C View Post
    We did have the body blasted, and it did show as a slight inward depression, which would indicate blasting from the inside. Was right in the corner of the brace and interior light intersection.. So it looks like he sat too long in that one spot. Didn't see any such damage anywhere else.
    It takes very little sandblasting to warp the sheetmetal as we know. He was probably blasting the brace inside and the sand hit the roof sheetmetal. I don't believe it takes very long for it to happen. I did the same thing on my hood, fenders, and roof. I blasted the braces on all those parts and the sand hit the outer sheetmetal slightly, warping it inward. I ended up with nearly a 1/16" dip at the back of my hood from that light blasting with fine sand. I will NEVER let sand hit the outer sheetmetal again. This can be proven by taking a perfectly flat piece of sheetmetal and blasting a line in the center of one side. It WILL warp, and it will bend towards the blasting gun as the sand particles peen and stretch that side of the metal.
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  3. #583
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    More progress on the wagon, we are adding a second interior light, so an original was sourced so they would match...





    .....and media blasted, ready for primer..





    Gary dropped off the rear seat so we could match drill holes into the side bolsters and install 5/16 rivet nuts for attachment..








    And we found another low spot in the roof, likely due to media blasting the light bracket too close to the roof skin. We used the rare earth magnet trick to accurately locate the inside to outside for exact alignment of the hammer to the donut dolly..





    outside, where we used the donut dolly to hammer into...








    ....and the inside, where we use the crowned hammer.....








    Using this method we were able to locate, layout, and bump all of the low spots to a consistent crown to match the surrounding panel, all in less than 5 minutes. In this case, a much better option than mixing and sanding filler.


    This video better shows the concept..


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HHHT...ature=youtu.be
    Robert



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  4. #584
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    Today we were working on more interior parts for Gary to upholster. Here is the design for the trim rings for our speakers, the cutaway shows the relief on the bottom which provides clearance for stainless mesh. This should provide a more 55 correct grill for the speakers than the plastic ones it came with. My cousin JB is making the trim rings for us..









    Mike trimmed out the slots we previously had for the bass speaker, it will also get the trim ring and mesh treatment.





    We drilled holes in the rear kick panel arm rest for panel clips to hold the arm rest down. I thought these would be a better option than the wire clips..





    We also needed an escutcheon for our seat belt to pass through the arm rest, as the retractor is located behind the kick panel. Not finding much in the local salvage yard but plastic to choose from, and little in aftermarket, we opted to make a sample out of steel to insure the seat belt buckle and harness support would pass through. We will make the final version out of stainless and polish them..








    Cleaned up and "polished" with Scotchbrite rolocs to simulate what the stainless should look like..








    In our arm rest two clearance holes are drilled, then a cut made between the two. Next, the two "tabs" are hammered downward to provide the void needed for the escutcheon such that they are tight enough to hold it in place.














    Robert



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  5. #585
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    Best wishes to everyone for a healthy and prosperous New Year!

    Some wagon updates, we've been tying up loose ends to get parts ready for upholstery and the roof ready for paint. With the arm rest details ironed out, E is unbolting the kick panels so we can cut out the speaker holes. Mike is getting the roof skin blocked out..





    Here's the last detail for the console, we still need our latching mechanism. To keep a minimalist approach, we're going to flush recess some rare earth magnets in the lid, so here's our "pockets" that will be welded into the lid. Starting with some .065 wall tubing the end was faced on the lathe, and the end plates turned to a welding diameter of slightly undersized than the tubing, which allows for a good fusion weld.



    Tacked:



    Fusion welded using the TIG:



    10-32 hex nut for magnet attachment is tacked on....



    Trimmed to size...



    The material scraps shown were to simulate what will be covering the console and lid for the "pull test". Three magnets appeared to work too well, so we are going drill holes and weld in our recess pockets to use two magnets but leave a space in the center for a third, just in case... Once welded and fitted we'll do one more pull test just to make sure the third one isn't needed..




    We also had some parts water jetted out of stainless for our seat belt escutcheons, this should help us get better consistency between parts.....and save time..



    Last edited by MP&C; 01-02-2019 at 12:43 PM.
    Robert



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  6. #586
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    We got the holes added in the console lid for the pocket recesses.....







    A bent fender washer and 3/16 rods serve to hold the pockets in place while tacked in with the TIG....











    Test fit of the magnets...











    Video of the console lid, testing the magnet pull for our latching method..



    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vgJM...ature=youtu.be




    .
    Robert



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  7. #587
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    Dotting the i's, crossing the t's... The insert for the bottom side of the console lid will be held in with a couple of 10-32 screws into a rivet nut. To insure the rivet nut is flush on the outside for the installation of upholstery, we want to provide a slight recess for the rivet nut flange. Here's the punch and die we made for the occasion, the bottom die is machined on the side to keep things from moving when clamped in the vise.

    South Bend milling machine:











    action shot:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z3hS...ature=youtu.be

    inner parts installed...









    ready for powder coat / epoxy primer, whichever comes first...



    Robert



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  8. #588
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    Thanks for the comments guys!



    Picked up the console from the powder coater, the outside was done in satin black and will be covered in upholstery, the inside parts were done in wrinkle finish, this will be their "covering"



















    Tonight we worked on some stainless for our seat belt escutcheons..







    Some measurements and geometry from high school should get us the correct size from the onset...











    Using the mag brake and a 3/4 tube to bend our radius...















    Tacked together using the TIG














    Got running late and missed some pictures, but here's the part welded up and polished..



    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b48a...ature=youtu.be



    .
    Robert



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  9. #589
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Great looking console Robert! (The result from all your work and skill!)..

  10. #590
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    Thanks!

    The center part (open area) surrounding the shifter will get an aluminum panel that matches the dash insert. Power window switches will be on the rearward slope just below the lid.
    Robert



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