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Thread: wagon progress

  1. #591
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    More progress, Mike installed the driver seat so we could mock up the lap belt for locating the lower escutcheon.








    Then we contemplated vertical or parallel....








    Remaining escutcheons were welded up...








    Ideally the inner opening of the ring should rest on the midline of the sleeve. This provides for a good fusion weld and starts the formation of the radius we're looking for around the inside opening. Here's the various stages of welding the escutcheons:


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jGklrvD4L6o


    Mike got the remaining openings cut in the arm rest and kick panels for the escutcheons...











    Test fit...








    …..and JB got started on the speaker trim rings for us...






    The recess on the rear is for the stainless mesh...











    Last edited by MP&C; 01-14-2019 at 07:02 PM.
    Robert



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  2. #592
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Great work Robert! You're not going with a 3-point seatbelt? Not sure I'd ever want to drive a car anymore with just a lap belt.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension

    You can see my 56 Nomad build here http://www.picturetrail.com/chevynut

    For affordable C4 Corvette Suspension conversions for your car, visit http://www.classicedgedesigns.com

    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax

  3. #593
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    The shoulder harness has an anchor point (1/2-13 lock nut) welded into the B-pillar, the retractor is inside the kick panel and shares the same anchor point with the lap belt. Hence the two escutcheons in each kick panel/arm rest assembly.. The bucket seat frame has the seat buckle attached, the rear bolts to the frame are 5/8-11 …. we didn't show the upper part of the belt in this mockup as those holes had already been located..
    Robert



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  4. #594
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Oh I see. I thought I saw something in the past showing an anchor on the b-pillar.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension

    You can see my 56 Nomad build here http://www.picturetrail.com/chevynut

    For affordable C4 Corvette Suspension conversions for your car, visit http://www.classicedgedesigns.com

    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax

  5. #595
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    Did some mockup of the fuel lines so we could get the required fittings identified..















    Finishing up the polishing of our seat belt escutcheons.. after using roloc scotchbrite pads to clean up the vixen file marks, we then used 320 dry, 1500 wet, and 3000 trizact damp. Then to the polishing..



















    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zBaVKe1aBhQ



    Here's the comparison between the 3000 and after polishing..






    That should do for us..
    Robert



    MP&C Shop Projects-Metalshaping Tutorials


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  6. #596
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    Some progress, doesn't look like much until you look at the floor...











    Sometimes these louvers can be a challenge to sand.







    In the spirit of "everything's a tool", a strip of 18 ga steel and a wrap of PSA paper does a good job of getting in the tight spaces.











    Another shot of the scrap pile before I clean it up, this is what went into fabricating the escutcheons..







    And now for the reason we didn't post earlier this week, had to make a speed run for Taco Tuesday.. even saw a full rainbow in the process.







    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWrIkyuUBTs



    Back in the shop this weekend, but we had a distraction in another Meco torch that showed up for sale not three miles away. So needless to say about the only thing accomplished was more welding practice!!











    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9Wf1AbzP3c



    After planishing...



    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BDy82sixbjQ




    .
    Robert



    MP&C Shop Projects-Metalshaping Tutorials


    Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom


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  7. #597
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Moving right along! To me this kind of fab stuff was the fun part of my build. Great work. What else before paint?
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension

    You can see my 56 Nomad build here http://www.picturetrail.com/chevynut

    For affordable C4 Corvette Suspension conversions for your car, visit http://www.classicedgedesigns.com

    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax

  8. #598
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    A couple more pieces to get ready for the upholsterer, I'm sure we have more fabrications to do, and then we need more time in the day.. I do have a new guy starting this week, so hope that will help to pick things up a bit..
    Robert



    MP&C Shop Projects-Metalshaping Tutorials


    Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom


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  9. #599
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    More progress on the wagon, we had ordered some 3/8 Stainless fuel line, which comes in a coil... so we needed to be able to straighten it out as I can see me "unbending" and getting it right.. So I placed an order with McMaster Carr for some pulleys designed for 3/8 rope and using 3/8 bolt hole in the bearing. Part number 59475K51.







    A drive mechanism was made using 3/8-16 stainless all-thread, and the slider was cut and re-welded to better fit the 1" square tubing.











    A better view all around of the design, we used three pulleys so this could also serve as a bender as well as straightener..



    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TpgMekrEA3g



    Then Mike and I did a test run using copper tubing...



    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FumsneaLJlU



    Now onto the stainless....















    At this point we measured and cut the 20' piece in two so it would be more more manageable.



    Straightened....







    Now we used the adjustable spline to get the curve of the frame for the proper bend on the stainless...











    A strip of tape applied helps to lock the shape from moving, and the tubing is marked for the radius distance..







    The tube is placed back in the new machine to add the radius to match our profile...














    Adding some of the needed bends...







    For some of the interior details, we took delivery of the speaker trim rings from my cousin JB, he did a nice job cutting these out for us... They still need holes drilled, stainless mesh cut to fit, and polishing...







    ....and our Mopar door clips we were going to use for the rear arm rests turned out to be a bit brittle, most snapped off rather than pull back through the hole. So we ordered the similar GM version, keeping our fingers crossed...







    Alas, in my typical Murphy strikes again mode, these were slightly smaller and/or the holes already located in the kick panels were slightly gaping.. We searched the entire shop for a MacGyver solution and found that a 3/8-16 hex nut did a good job of "capturing" the clip, but without the "not letting go" part that a hole in sheet metal provides if the clip rotates slightly while in the hole. So some 3/8 stainless nuts were machined so that they could be welded into the kick panel and yet have the thread grip flush at the surface.















    Robert



    MP&C Shop Projects-Metalshaping Tutorials


    Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom


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  10. #600
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    Saturday we got the tank installed so we could get a good reading on where it locates in relation to the body mounts in front of the axle.







    We also pulled a pattern from the body mount so we could bend the lines around it accurately.







    Highly technical drawing showing our tank location...







    Tank located per our drawing in relation to body mount..







    The more I look at this, the less I wanted to use the braided lines between the hard line and the tank. I'm just not comfortable with another fitting in the vicinity of the tail pipes. So back up and punt, looks like we're getting new tubing and bending again. The last lines weren't long enough to make it back to the tank, so we'll chalk them up as practice pieces, learning curve, if you will...
    Here the Body mount pattern is bolted up, the lines will make a bend behind this body mount, travel across to the middle, and then toward the back where it will attach directly to the tank.







    The lines will come close to the passenger tail pipe, so we'll add a heat shield. I visited a local motorcycle shop and picked up a donor...







    trimmed to fit...















    That should do. Next, we need to finish the kick panels for upholstery, which means mounting the speakers. The trim rings from cousin JB will need holes drilled to match the speakers. We have some button head allen screws we plan on using, but didn't really care for the surface mounted look...







    This would look so much better with the details of counterbored holes. Alas, the pitfalls of working on Saturdays without a local source. What's a person to do but make their own. The extended die grinder almost fits the Aloris tool holder too well, like it was made to be.



    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q38H...ature=youtu.be



    A 120 grit roloc sanding disc does well to backface the cutting edge and we are in business..







    Much better, all in the details..











    ….and adding the tweeters to the kick panel...



    Robert



    MP&C Shop Projects-Metalshaping Tutorials


    Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom


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