Robert I basically do the same thing. I use SPI epoxy on bare metal, slick sand, start blocking my panels, once straight I use reduced SPI as a sealer and top coat. Works pretty nice for me.
Robert I basically do the same thing. I use SPI epoxy on bare metal, slick sand, start blocking my panels, once straight I use reduced SPI as a sealer and top coat. Works pretty nice for me.
Not all suppliers use the same chemistries. I was led to believe there could be compatibility issues if you mix brands, due to the difference in chemistries. Sure, all PPG products should be compatible, but it doesn't mean they're compatible with other supplier's products. PPG states that their products are compatible with polyeseter fillers so I don't think Slicksand is an issue. I'm hesitant to mix brands of paints and primers because I don't know what issues might come up. And do you think PPG would back their product if it was under or over someone elses's product? I doubt it.
I prefer no (bad) surprises.
56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
It does seem like SPI offers some advantages. PPG DPLF sands like crap, so you have to use a different primer/surfacer over it. If you can just keep using SPI epoxy and sanding it until it's flat, that seems like a lot better way to go. What about the price? PPG DPLF is very expensive imo.
56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
I have to wonder about the block sanding on SPI epoxy. How can it be as easy as K36 or a similar product?
I don't have current pricing but the cost has to be lower. One downside is that you can't buy it locally, at least most places.
Don't worry about the warranty, you won't have one if it's a DIY deal anyway. Unless you have everything done in a PPG shop, you won't get PPG warranty (etc.).
One of the incompatibles is shown in Robert's youtube link. But you might be surprised how much of the chemistry is the same from brand to brand. I think the incompatibility of types of products is greater that the variation between different brands of similar products.
Bottom line though is most of us don't want to be test pilots on this type of thing.
Last edited by Rick_L; 01-29-2015 at 01:21 PM.
When pricing primer for the wagon, For a 2 gallon kit, the SPI was $177 and change delivered to my door. Same qty of H/K is in the neighborhood of $260 plus shipping. Given that, I thought it was a good time to give it a try. I've had good luck with the H/K and am liking the SPI so far. I do like the semi-gloss of the SPI, it helps to see any missed dings/defects while eliminating the need for using guidecoat. Given the video's use of a sledgehammer on the finish with little effect, I think one can safely bump out any minor dings with no detriment to the primer's adhesion.
I found that the Slicksand showed the low spots well too, without guide coat. Most primers do, but it's harder to see on some of them.
The SPI is certainly less expensive. I think I was paying $315 a gallon for the PPG DPLF. Don't remember if that included the activator or not but I think it did.
When you say "2 gallon kit" is that 2 gallons sprayable? 1 gallon of DPLF gives you 1.5 gallons sprayable with activator.
56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
SPI epoxy primer has a 1:1 mixing ratio so one gallon is two gallons sprayable. I really like the stuff. It does sand well but I really don't sand it. I use it to protect the bare metal and then I reduce it and use it as a sealer before my top coat.
Last edited by BAM55; 01-29-2015 at 03:01 PM.
The $177 was for one gallon of primer and one gallon of activator, on my doorstep. (A two gallon kit) SO if you calculated shipping and hazmat fees into the H/K pricing, the SPI is a bit over $100 cheaper on the two gallons...
Last edited by MP&C; 01-29-2015 at 02:55 PM.
You probably need to rate your epoxy primer costs by considering substrate thickness per gallon or per sprayable gallon.
PPG DPLF mixes 2:1 so you get 1.5 gallons sprayable from a gallon of "resin". But you may get as much or more substrate thickness as the SPI that's 1:1 mix. Frankly I don't know the answer to that.
And if you're going to block sand the SPI that means you'll probably need more substrate thickness. So maybe you should compare the SPI at some number of coats to one coat of PPG DPLF + however many coats of K36 or K38 you'll need.
Just food for thought, it's not always as simple as your first thoughts. I'd sure like to see those numbers.
Today Kyle cut out the battery tray's zee bracket, and I had told him we should tip the top lip first and then make the vertical bends...
As you can see, it turned out horribly, and sometimes I need a learning curve myself...
We had used a narrow bottom die to tip the top flange, and should have also used something different for the vertical bends.
So let's back up and punt, here bending the vertical bends FIRST and using a roll former die to keep any markings to a minimum. We did a partial bend here, then did a partial tip, and jumped back and forth a few times for a much better result:
Plug welded through the thinner battery hold down into the 16 ga metal of the zee bracket using a Letter A sized holes and enough heat for weld penetration to show on the back side...
Also did more fine tuning on the front end today..
Test fit of the "early" side emblem..