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Thread: wagon progress

  1. #541
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    Thanks for that bit of extra explanation. My uprights are much farther apart so that the hoses are inboard of the uprights. I just used square tube welded directly to the remains of the stock "saddle" - no transition. I also had to notch the bottom of the new uprights to clear the inner fenders. The thing I like about yours is the "S" radius on the lower joint. Do you have additional photos of how you formed those pieces?

  2. #542
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    IMG_3016a.jpg


    This should be a rough approximation... the red represents cuts made in original, yellow is what was left for heating/bending to form the S, the bottom of the tube is cut into four tabs (blue) and rolled/trimmed as needed prior to Tig welding all the parts together. The outer part of the tube (blue) turns inward just soon enough to provide clearance for the lower bolt on the splash apron to side baffle.
    Robert



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  3. #543
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    Simpler than I was thinking, thanks.

  4. #544
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    So we had fabricated a duplicate of the 55 AC car battery tray to get the battery off the firewall. This bolts directly to the outside of the core supports "horseshoe".





    So when we decided to widen the opening for a crossflow, the tubing had to be placed directly next to the old upright to locate our battery support in the same location.



    This means the new uprights would also conflict with radiator necks. Dominoes, they do fall.... Core support now with relief holes for coolant hoses and lines. Thankfully side baffle plates will hide this ugliness!





    Video Version:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VRojQ4nWMhw


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    Robert



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  5. #545
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Nice work Robert. That's pretty creative too.

    I did mine differently. I eliminated the "dip" in the front splash shield entirely because I figured it wasn't necessary with a cross-flow radiator. It now bolts to the front of my custom core support along the bottom. Just another way to approach it.

    20180614_002.JPG
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  6. #546
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    Robert your metal work is above amazing, I love reading all your articles and how you figure stuff out. Thanks

  7. #547
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    Thanks for the comments guys. Laszlo, I looked at doing that same mod, and if the part was still in bare metal I would have taken the plunge. I've block sanded the splash pan a couple times now, it's staying that way....
    Robert



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  8. #548
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    So this weekend the core support was mocked up and some "sample" radiatorhoses bent out of 3/4" EMT. Once bent to fit, these samples were taken to the local NAPA store, where they have become used to me sizing up radiator hoses in the store room. The lower hose was from an S10 pickup or Blazer, but with the battery bracket in place, there was interference to the hose.





    So our battery bracket is modified to provide clearance for the hose, and a "hem" added to the inside.













    The upper hose has no such obstacles, so we should have smooth sailing there.
    Last edited by MP&C; 09-24-2018 at 03:29 AM.
    Robert



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  9. #549
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Nice work Robert. I love seeing this custom stuff and it's a lot more interesting than just using the stock pieces.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  10. #550
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    Well the past few scheduled shop nights (and days) have been a bust, between college open houses and extracurricular activities...





    Back in the shop we needed to finalize our console lid design as some parts are getting ready to go for upholstery. Our piano hinge showed to have clearance issues when using it in "hidden" mode..



    ....as shown here...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=puZl_3KBzMg

    We could notch the rear of the console and lid and move the hinge flush with the rear, but that would leave the hinge visible when closed, and now require and lanyard to keep it from flopping all the way over..

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2AKHWuSlyY

    We started looking at hidden hinges at one of our local cabinet maker. Although this one looks plenty stout, it was far to wide for our present design, and would require quite a bit of rework..

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LBqo7m20H34

    With the new options, we narrowed our search to a cabinet hinge that was narrow enough to fit within our side confines, and found this one online..



    Test fit, a straightedge is clamped to the hinge, aligned with the rear edge to see what interference this may have. Looks like this is the one..

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IV4lPQKqBC8

    Hope to finish the hinge details up tomorrow. We also took delivery on our stainless mesh samples to make a decision on our speaker grilles..

    Robert



    MP&C Shop Projects-Metalshaping Tutorials


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