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Thread: wagon progress

  1. #511
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    Quote Originally Posted by MP&C View Post
    Thanks, don't forget to prime/paint them before you weld them in so the tabs will have paint on them when folded up.
    I wish I had thought about that before I welded mine in.

  2. #512
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    More work on the lid...





    Lid hangs over slightly in the front to serve as our only pull/lift for opening the lid, nice and tidy. It will be held closed using rare earth magnets.



    Video version:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e3cAFzk8Zfc

    Our kick panels for the rear seat also need some support against the inner quarter panel to help hold the arm rest.



    Jake bent up a 1 x 1 angle out of 19 gauge and used the Erco to match the contour of the kick panel. In order to not block off the window mechanism access panel, we'll bolt it to that panel.. As we have yet to install all of our interior/carpet/upholstery, we made the support adjustable so we can match the kick panel height at installation.. Video version:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wicUAwkqvAI



    More details on the console, we had hemmed all the edges to help protect the upholstery when it gets wrapped, but the tunnel cutout at the rear still needed an "added" hem. Then our hem is tacked in place, edges adjusted with a drum sander, and the two edges fusion welded together using the TIG.





    ....and sanded smooth..



    Next, layout and folding the insert for the console. Some parts needed to fill in voids will be added later..








    Test fit....



    Video:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J20U5oIL8vw
    Robert



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  3. #513
    Registered Member NickP's Avatar
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    BTW, I've been meaning to ask you, how's that magnetic break holding up?

  4. #514
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    Works real well doing stuff like using a round rod to add a radius bend, or bending a complete box as shown above. Struggles in making nice, crisp bends on longer bends, and why I thin the bend line on much of what we do or just use the Diacro press brakes... ANYONE who rates an offshore brake at 16 gauge and expects it to bend that thickness ACCURATELY at full width of the machine is lying through their teeth.
    Robert



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  5. #515
    Registered Member NickP's Avatar
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    Robert, which spot welder do you use. I have two and never really got comfortable with them. Thoughts.

  6. #516
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    220V Miller with timer control. Here's a link, and it contains details on machine capacities..


    https://www.bakersgas.com/MIL901357.html


    I will say that mine were procured from auction of the removal of shop equipment from the local school system (sadly). I may need to replace the trigger switch as our spot welds the other night had a bit of smoke originating from the switch area. I wasn't too sure of the spot welds integrity so Jake drilled some holes through one panel and we plug welded using the TIG...
    Robert



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  7. #517
    Registered Member NickP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MP&C View Post
    220V Miller with timer control. Here's a link, and it contains details on machine capacities..


    https://www.bakersgas.com/MIL901357.html


    I will say that mine were procured from auction of the removal of shop equipment from the local school system (sadly). I may need to replace the trigger switch as our spot welds the other night had a bit of smoke originating from the switch area. I wasn't too sure of the spot welds integrity so Jake drilled some holes through one panel and we plug welded using the TIG...
    I have the 220 V unit but not the "T" model. I wonder if the timer can be purchased separately? Or, can it be made, i.e. DIY?

  8. #518
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    I don't think they would add any real value, on mine you hold the switch at the handle full open and the timer interrupts when it reaches the elapsed time set. Manually, hold the switch until the red circle grows to the diameter you think you need based on panel thickness, then release. If you can duplicate glowing red circle size, you should have consistent sized spot welds. If these hadn't come with the timers when I got them at auction (2 of them at ~200 ea.) I doubt I would spend the coin to buy them new with the timers.
    Last edited by MP&C; 02-27-2018 at 07:39 AM.
    Robert



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  9. #519
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    More progress on the wagon, making our insert for the console whole...



    Clamped up for tacking with the TIG welder...



    Video of fusion tacks:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BO2a915SAuk





    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wr69SZk7YXI



    Adding in the corner for the rear kick panel...







    .....getting closer all the time..
    Robert



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  10. #520
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    Finishing up our floor weldments so we can visit the local Line-x for "undercoating" this coming week.. Our bucket seats have one bolt that went through the floor, and we wanted to eliminate the need for two people to install/remove the hardware.. We came up with a plate fitted to the floor pan channel that we welded a hex nut onto. This plate will allow us to plug weld to the floor...










    The rear quarter also has some bolting pads where the side ears to the rear bumper is bolted through. We needed to make stiffener plates to strengthen this area.



    We made use of some tubing in the scrap pile to make a punch and anvil... Everything's a tool...



    Alignment marks in the centers of the tubes..











    Ready for Line-x

    Robert



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