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Thread: wagon progress

  1. #741
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    I should have done the oilite bronze bushings on the brake and clutch myself. May still. The nylon bushings that Danchuk sells are not acceptable at all. There are better ones (East Coast Chevy) but they still need a little work to be marginally acceptable.

    Does McMaster-Carr have oilite rod?

  2. #742
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    Rick, IIRC it was about 25 years ago when I bought that piece of rod and I think it came from one of the Baltimore metals outlets. McMaster does carry the "oil impregnated" bronze in both tube and rod. As Nick pointed out to me, McMaster has some "close" sizes in a flanged bushing that may be a good starting point... At just over $4, seems the way to go...


    https://www.mcmaster.com/6338K585/


    I think mine was about .9 hole diameter and about .97 housing diameter, and slight clearancing from there until the parts fit well.
    Last edited by MP&C; 10-27-2020 at 04:20 AM.
    Robert



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  3. #743
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    Starting some of our electrical work, since the fuel pump and float assembly both connected using ring terminals, we wanted to use some weather pack connectors so there would be a quick disconnect. We had purchased one of the weather pack "kits" from Jegs in order to have a selection to work from as we put the car back together..







    On our standard terminal lugs, we pulled insulating sleeve off the back side so we could use a "W" crimp, and then covered with heat shrink.







    Some anti seize was applied to the connection to help keep corrosion controlled, and some braid loom and heat shrink was used to add some protection.











    Weather pack connection, wires stripped just enough for the W crimp, strain relief crimp remains on top of the wire's jacket insulation.















    Next, to finalize our parking brake situation, we needed to drill a hole in the floor, which then had epoxy primer applied to the perimeter. Once cured, we installed a rubber grommet and fed through the floor. If you recall, the Lokar cable did not fit the opening in our donor brake pedal assembly, so a thick washer with the correct smaller hole was found, and the bracket hole was opened up to the outer diameter of the washer...







    Then the washer was TIG welded in place..











    Next challenge, the brake assembly had an internal pedal return spring that would now rest on the cable and rub in the same place on the ends, so in order to minimize any wear through the cable strands, the spring was relocated to the side of the frame at the adjusters where a shoulder was machined into the adjustment fittings to support the spring ends and not rub into the cable.







    To further protect the cable from spring rub, as there surely would be deflection of the spring as the brake was applied, we test fit some heat shrink to act as a protective sleeve. The internal liner of the Lokar cable was roomy enough for the heat shrink to pass up inside, so concept test complete, we ordered some high heat Teflon shrink tubing from McMaster. This was installed over the cable, with plenty of extra slid up in the liner, and assembled all the parts..



























    That should hold us.....
    Robert



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  4. #744
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    Oh yeah! Made a trip to Annapolis Wednesday, Brandon and Richard were done buffing parts... Hell of a way to transport fenders and doors....














    Robert



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  5. #745
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    This is great stuff to see! Because I'm headed down the electrical path of wiring up my car as a winter project. I need to do weather pack connectors, and open barrel terminals too. Looking for the best deal in good crimping tools for the job, and connectors.
    Last edited by 55 Rescue Dog; 11-06-2020 at 03:56 PM.

  6. #746
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    I thought using the W crimps on the lugs would give us a more "automotive authentic" connection than the plastic sleeved lugs. For the crimper, we bought them from Jegs. Some of the WP crimpers they carry, they are right proud of. So we bought a cheaper crimper and replacement dies:





    Back when we were shaving all the holes in the firewall, the dimmer switch in the floor actually went THROUGH the floor where the connections were made on the outside, and only the push actuator stuck through the floor. Not wanting anymore electrical connections outside the floor than needed, we welded up the center hole, and kept the floor nuts to bolt the new one inside.. Any never gave it any more thought. Until this weekend. Our dimmer switch, a DS115 has a bolt pattern of about 1.75" between hole centers. The factory nuts are about 2.625" between hole centers. Oh well, back up and punt has become second nature with this project..








    So we started by fabricating an "adapter bracket" using 16 gauge stainless and a 1/4-20 press stud.








    Next, the left bolt needed to be 1/4-20 to fit in the hole of our dimmer switch and with the floor hole at 5/16-18, we need another adapter. So two set screws of appropriate size were welded together, and this allows using an allen wrench to install and hold while tightening the nuts to hold down the dimmer switch.





    The right screw remains 5/16-18 through, but we are going to find something with a smaller (shorter) profile for under the carpet.








    …..with plenty of room for the wiring inside





    Mike and Jarod got the fuel tank along with fill and vent tubes installed...














    …..and then finished our "flexible" lines from the hard lines on the frame up to the EFI.











    We still have clamps to install.. Up at the EFI, 30* fittings were used to give us a downward trajectory but yet high enough to keep off the heat of the intake (that the 45* would have done).








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    Robert



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  7. #747
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    A while back I picked up some used body tools, including this bumper puller/straightener (red handle).
    This tool works by placing the pad against the bumper face, hooking the top or bottom back edge (depending on direction of pull needed) and prying to twist back into shape.. The rubber pad was about falling off, with exposed rivets, but since I was just hanging it up as wall art, didn't think much past that..






    Fast forward to last weekend, and a square body 4WD stopped by, which has the typical bumper ears not parallel to the ground. So I pulled the tool out to show the owner that there was indeed a way to repair that. And then decided we need to go ahead and repair the tool so it could be put back in service for when the next time the truck stopped by...

    First order of business was to remove the old fender bolt and nut and replace with a machine bolt and lock nut.









    Next, for our "replacement" pad, we had a small piece of horse mat we could cut it out of, and one of our counterbore bits was used to get the screw heads below the surface..









    The pad was held in place using 10-32 pan head screws and lock nuts.







    So now our wall art is all ready for next time...
    Robert



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  8. #748
    Registered Member Troy's Avatar
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    I think it needs a blasting, a paint job, and a new handle!!

  9. #749
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    Some weekend progress... Fine tuning the rear bumper fitment.





    Driver's side fits well to the profile of the rear of the quarter...





    Passenger side not so much, so the bumper is marked with some fineline tape for where we will sand down the edge to better match..





    Leading edge of drivers side needs some trimming...








    ….as does the center section behind the tail pan..





    Next, in order to test fit the front bumper and provide the same "trim fitting" we will need to install the doors and front fenders. So our hinges got some new braid loom and a pull wire installed for the hidden wiring..





    The tapped holes in the door's nut plates were chased to insure the fresh paint did not interfere with the bolts..























    All buttoned up for the day, and under Kramer's watchful eye..


    Robert



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  10. #750
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    Looking good Robert.
    You can't go wrong with Kosmo Kramer watching things.
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

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