wagon progress

[MP&C]

Steering column one step closer to green paint...






and blocked to 500 grit...





Working on removing dings and refining scratches on the windshield trim in prep for polishing. These pieces are less receptive to using the DA due to all the creases, so we've resorted to wet/dry paper up to 2500 and then polish.








Jared getting the hang of this stainless work....






For the other wagon, we went with a powder coat chrome finish to dress up that front dropped axle.





And this is the second round of three coats of epoxy and blocking. Think this will be the last round, and then on to some silver base and blue kandy..

[BamaNomad]

Very nice work Robert! Appears the 'catty' inspector approves also!

[MP&C]

Anything he can lay on and take a nap, he's good with.


More work on the wagons. Jared and I continuing to repair some stainless trim. I was asked about our process, so here's a bit more detailed approach. But understand we are complete novices at this, so take any of this with a grain of salt.


To start, some light scuffing in line with 1500 grit helps to highlight any rock dings in the windshield trim..









Once any defects are identified, they are LIGHTLY tapped outward from the back side to bring the defect outward where it can be removed. Then 400 grit is used to remove the defect (and by default some of the adjacent material). So we want the defect to be pronounced outward, but not too much. Better to tap it outward in repeated steps than to go too far and create a stretch. I missed getting a picture before we started on this "rock chip"; this was after a few passes with 400 on the 3M board (just above arrow).. It was tapped outward about 4 different times until we got it where the defect was sanded out.









Back side that was tapped....














https://www.youtube.com/shorts/BdSQMh6MOTU




After removing all the dings, the surface was sanded working progressively through grits 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500, and then on to 3000 and 5000 trizact discs on the DA. Afterwards it was polished out on the buffer...














Some parts painted green so we can continue with more assembly...
























When we had mocked up the wagon frame we just had a 1/2” bolt stuck through the bottom of the pull handle. Now that we’ve got the frame back from chrome powder coating, it’s time for some final details. The bolt for the bottom of the pull handle needs to be an Allen bolt to match our kingpins, and we need one from each side to be symmetrical. A little late to thread any holes in the pivot piece, so we’ll go with docking hardware. A 1/2-13 bolt was turned down for 1/4-20 threads, and the opposite one drilled and tapped.









An allen wrench in the vise holds the bolt for threading














Bolt for the opposite side...





























Frame is all done but trimming the axles, now to finish blocking the epoxy on the tub.

[MP&C]

Back to our stainless trim, we need to modify the upper doortrim to hold our peep mirrors. We opted for the old school look of thepeep mirrors but did not want to use the clamp on paint chippers. Thefront edge of the trim uses a machine screw through the door and into a nutplate. Our plans are to use a formed hole in the trim and use the hole inthe door to attach the mirrors.








As we had used the tail stock of the South Bend before withsuccess, we made some press dies to match the mirror's stepped end and providea flange in the holes for added strength.























Trial test of the mirror, yellow rag hung outside the rearwindow for a more visible reflection

[busterwivell]

Excellent!

[BamaNomad]

I like the peep mirrors... and we ALL need a right hand mirror if we EVER back up..

[Troy]

Very nice, but I think you have the mirrors on backwards!!! It looks like the guy taking the picture is in front of the car and we can see his reflection!!!!

[MP&C]

[55 Rescue Dog]

I really like my convex clamp-on peep mirror, and no holes I wished I would have drilled in a different place. I don't know, but if you are deleting the vent windows it will be fine in the forward position. That's where I originally mounted mine before I had side windows. After I installed the vent windows the frame cut straight down the center of view in the mirror. I had to move it back about 3 inches. Then it was fine and even closer to my eye.
IMG_3942.jpg

[MP&C]

Yeah, we used the forward trim hole so we weren't drilling any extra holes in the door. I've seen instances with the clamp-on bracket before, where body twist or door movement (worn hinges perhaps) had taken its toll on the paint above in the door opening.