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Thread: Using epoxy without topcoat?

  1. #21
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mech393 View Post
    I have used por-15 on my under carriage but also can be painted chassis black so the sun won't damage it but chemicals won't harm it and you can beat it with a hammer and it won't chip but once its on there its not coming off. it also can be brushed on and when it dries it becomes smooth no brush marks the only thing bad about it is you must use it in a ventilated area and if you get it on your hands it not coming off.
    I've heard from several sources that POR-15 doesn't stick worth a damn to clean metal, and I refuse to paint over rust when I can remove it. I used a similar product, Rust Bullet, inside my doors at the very bottom after cleaning as good as I could. Both are MCUs (moisture curing urethanes).
    Last edited by chevynut; 12-29-2016 at 02:02 PM.
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  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    After 24 hours I found that acetone still takes the SPI epoxy off, and so does lacquer thinner. In fact the lacquer thinner attacks it more readily than the acetone. I read on a SPI forum that the epoxy takes 7 days to fully cure.
    I'm not sure about the cure time for chemical resistance, but 7 days is the safe recoat window, full cure is much later than that.

  3. #23
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    I have seen POR15 come off in sheets. So much for chip resistance and never lifting.

    Toxicity, never comes off your hands, etc. plus it doesn't stick anyway are my reasons for never using it. Spray it and it's even worse. The overspray sometimes sticks better than what you intended to have a coating on.

  4. #24
    Member mech393's Avatar
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    por15 won't stick to smooth metal just like paint you have to score it, the paint works best on sand blasted metal ive had it on my Camaro for over eight years and its there and ive steam cleaned it many times so if the paint has come off in sheets then the metal wasn't prepped right.

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