has anyone installed a hyd clutch setup in their 55 chevy. I bought one but instructions are not that great and it looks like it is more universable than direct fit. the bracket for the clutch master cyl hits the steering rag joint and if you put the rod end on the opposite side of the lever under the dash then the cylinder is real clost to header. I would appreciate any feedback on how you did to correct this problem. thanks mike.
I built my own.Originally Posted by mikes55
Is there any way you can mount it so it just clears the rag joint? I'd rather do that than be close to the header. Maybe you need to get rid of the rod end and use he stock clevis to move it over a bit.
56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
I thought of something like a clevis that would strattle the lever under the dash and it would move it over probably just enough cause swapping rod end to other side of lever moves it 3/4 inch over and its clost to header where it could damage ceals or boil brake fluild. I wonder if its worth the trouble or just keep manual linkage. I am wondering how much more it will be pressing the pedal from hyd to manual
IMO the advantage of a hydraulic clutch is that you don't have to worry about getting the rods lined up and clearing everything, and not as much linkage to wear and go out of adjustment. A hydraulic TO bearing makes it even simpler, but I'm leary of them since a lot of guys seem to have leaks using them. Once they leak you have to pull the tranny to fix it. I prefer a hydraulic slave and clutch fork, if there's room for it. I just think a hydraulic setup is simpler to execute.
If you can make the stock mechanical linkage work within the contstraints you have and perhaps improve it with rod ends, it should work fine. The pedal force should be no different from mechanical to hydraulic with the same pressure plate unless you have a lot of friction in the mechanical setup.
56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
yes I think my complete new stock manual setup will work and I had bought it thinking it would be a simple set up but it doesn't look to be. do you know of anyone who sells the manual set up with rod ends? yea kind of worried about that bearing leakin too.
For some reason OEMs seem to be able to successfully use the hydraulic TO bearing with good results. I'm not sure what rate they leak in new cars. One of my customers installed THREE new GM TO bearings, and they all leaked, requiring him to pull the T56 3 times. If an external slave leaks, it's an easy job to replace it.
Earle Williams sells a manual clutch setup with rod ends but it's pricey. You could thread the rods and add the rod ends yourself.
http://www.williamsclassic.com/#!__p...0=clutch-pedal
IMO if it was me I'd still go with the hydraulic setup if you can make it work without too much hassle. I just like the simplicity of the setup.
56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
I don't think he has a complete kit, but I've seen pieces that Earle Williams built that have rod ends. I suggest you call him.
As for your clutch master cylinder mounting, the mounting surface for the m/c probably needs to tilt away from the firewall at approximately 10º. This moves the bottom of the m/c forward and up. It's what fixed my home grown setup clearance wise. Several of the aftermarket brackets have this feature, it works on other cars too.
Just guessing here since you didn't post a photo, which would help a lot.
meaning with a slave cylinder or with the hyd bearing? I would like to know if all of the work and the chance of it leaking is worth switching and if it will make the clutch pedal that much easier. did you ever hear of any one using the American powertrain hydromax system with good results. you seem to know a lot about the hyd vs the manual setup.
yes it does tilt but the problem im having is the bracket for the master cylinder hits the rag joint and if I put the rod end on the other side of the lever under the dash to move it over its too clost to the header. have you heard of anyone using this setup and how the set it up and does the hyd throw out bearing hold up?
Years ago on the other site I was complaining about the wore out welded junk I had for a clutch linkage and Rick and others suggested Earl Williams. Sent my junk off for his upgrades and have never regretted it.
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