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Thread: 605 steering box issues

  1. #1
    Member My55's Avatar
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    Cool 605 steering box issues

    Hello, trying to figure out this web forum

  2. #2
    Member My55's Avatar
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    605 steering box

    Have a 55 chev with 605 power steering box conversion. Had for many years. Trying to figure out how to remove play in input shaft( at steering column end). I've adjusted sector shaft and big Allen head at end of box(toward front of car), no better. I can't figure out how to get this loose on input side near column. I got snap ring out but there's big washer with holes in maybe a spanner socket would unscrew it? Don't see any threads? I think this box came off a 78-80 Malibu type? Not sure came from junk yard years ago? If I get this end open I may be able to correct play? Any insight would help on how to get this big washer with holes in it off? Thanks in advance!!!

  3. #3
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    The 605 was marginal at best when on a cheap Malibu in the late 70s, let alone modified extensively 40 years later. Just buy a new 500 box for $400 and be done,

  4. #4
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    My thought is that if you can't fix it with the adjuster nut on top of the box, you probably can't.

    Just replace it with the 500 box as markm suggests. It should bolt right in and be compatible with your steering column and hoses.

    The 605 has a plain worm gear where even the stock manual box as well as the 500 box have recirculating balls. 605 boxes also tend to leak at the top cover. Last thing, the hydraulic valve in a 605 gives you too much power steering too soon, resulting in road wander. The 500 box has a valve more like your typical late model.

  5. #5
    Member My55's Avatar
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    605 box blues

    Thanks for your help guys. I came to the conclusion that the steering box end near the column must not be adjustable so I loosened the big lock ring on the end near the front of the car and adjusted the big Allen ( I used a 5/8" although I think it's slightly bigger) clockwise about a half inch on the outer diameter until it was snug. Then turned the input shaft all the way left and right in which there was a little too much drag. Backed the the big Allen off a hair until it was free and tightened the lock ring. I put it back in the car and drove it today. It felt better. I may have to tweak the sector adjustment. We'll see. Thanks for the suggestions in case this doesn't work out! I'm putting an LT1 in it. I wanted to see if I could make the steering better before pulling engine. It would be a lot easier to change the steering if need be without the engine in. Going from old school 283 (for many years) to LT1. Thanks again!!!

  6. #6
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    The adjustment procedure is to adjust the end play/preload on the input shaft, then adjust the mesh with the adjuster on the top of the box. Usually the end play/preload is ok.

    I am doing an LT1 on mine so if you have any questions I can help, or we can learn together.

  7. #7
    Member My55's Avatar
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    605 response

    Sounds great Rick! I have a 4L60E automatic that I'll probably put in also with the LT1. I have had a 283 with a Muncie 4 speed for over 30 years and find it hard to commit to an automatic but I'm getting older and this way the family could drive it easier after I'm gone (hopefully way down the road). It also would be good for trips with the overdrive from the 4L60E. I went through the engine found one exhaust valve not sealing which was replaced and reseated. Also put new timing chain and gears and new water pump. The bearings and distributor seemed OK. I want to make sure my injectors flow OK some low budget way. I still need to find a good deal on a MAF. I got new side engine mounts from Danchuk. I think am going to keep original speedo and get a convertor box to have elec signal from vehicle speed sensor run a motor to drive the cable to speedo. Also I'd like to keep the O.E. fuel tank and hook a low budget high pressure pump on the frame somewhere. Any input from you or other members would be appreciated!!!

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