Nomad C4 chassis assembly

**Custer55** · 10-25-2016, 10:09 AM

Originally Posted by

I have also been working on those damned rack lines. I tried re-bending the stock ones and they aren't long enough, even with a 12mm banjo on the valve. I tried having new lines flared, but nobody can make them like GM did and I am concerned about using a single 45 degree flare that's so small anyhow. I've contacted Turn One to see if they sold new hardlines for a rotated C4 rack but haven't heard anything back.

I got some custom fittings made by Bluegrass Trifive (thanks Steve!) that adapt the 12mm x 1.5mm 45 degree rack fitting to an AN fitting but by the time I put them on and use an AN-4 90 degree hose end the hoses are way out in front of the rack. Also, the valve end has some really screwey o-ring flare like this that nobody can make:

[ATTACH

6452[/ATTACH]

So Steve also got me some straight AN adapters for the valve end but again they make it hard to route the flex lines cleanly and compactly.

So I think I'm going forward with a plan to use braided stainless hose along with part of the stock flared tubes. Here's an interim pic and I'll post pics when I finish them. Once I get them done I can drop the engine in the chassis.

Attachment 6451

I ended up making a new line with a double flare at the rack and it has not leaked so far. I made the double flare slightly larger by moving the line out of the flaring tool a bit and then flaring it again. I used the original end at the other end and cut it off and double flared it couple it to my new line. The O ring on that end is metric, I got new ones from "The Oring store" online. Can't remember exactly what size it was. I like the way you did your lines better though.
Brian

**chevynut** · 10-25-2016, 12:22 PM

Custer, thanks for the feedback. I have a 37 degree Ridgid flaring tool, but not a 45 degree one. I went to Tubes-N-Hoses and they couldn't make a large 45 degree flare like the GM one...in fact, theirs is smaller than standard for some reason. They're supposed to be .350" OD and theirs is only .330". The GM one is .370" and the hole in the nut is around .270. I don't know why the guy was hesitant to make it any bigger, even though I showed him what the issue was but it seemed to be related to the double flare tool. They did a single flare and it was only .330" but I don't think there's enough clamping area to work right and be safe.

I went back and forth on this trying to figure out what to do with it. I wanted it compact and neat-looking. I would have preferred hardlines for simplicity, but the flare on the cylinder end had me stumped. I have a solution for the valve end that I think will work when I get some parts I ordered. The hose I'm using is a little smaller in diameter than some of the other -4 hose I have and is more flexible so it works well, I think. I happened to have several -4 stainless hose ends from my aircraft mechanic days that I'm using and they measure the same as the ones made for this hose...all Aeroquip. Never did hear back from Turn One on whether they really sell those lines for a rotated rack.

**chevynut** · 10-25-2016, 12:53 PM

Called Aldan today to discuss my coilovers and what to do with them. I bought the shocks several years ago and they've been sitting on the car and on the shelf all that time. The nitrogen charge seems to be about gone but otherwise they seem to be in good shape. Aldan has a rebuild service where they put new, seals and new oil in them and re-charge the nitrogen. The tech told me they have also made some internal upgrades that they'll install. Cost is $99 a pair, which I'd like to avoid but I'd rather have them refreshed now than to have them leak or perform poorly when the car's running.

It's cheaper than going with a new set of QA-1s.

So I'm going to polish them up (they recommended I do that first) and get them in the mail to Aldan asap so I can get them back and on the chassis.

My "final" calculations for spring rate say to use a 575 lb/in (10") spring in front assuming a 1.5" preload. I already bought 600 lb/in so I think I'll stick with them for now and change if they seem too stiff. I also calculated 550 lb/iin for the rear, but that's a 12" spring and a 1" preload. For some reason the 10" springs need to be compressed to install them on the shocks, but the 12" ones don't and are actually shorter than the shock body.

**55 Rescue Dog** · 10-25-2016, 05:04 PM

Originally Posted by chevynut

Called Aldan today to discuss my coilovers and what to do with them. I bought the shocks several years ago and they've been sitting on the car and on the shelf all that time. The nitrogen charge seems to be about gone but otherwise they seem to be in good shape. Aldan has a rebuild service where they put new, seals and new oil in them and re-charge the nitrogen. The tech told me they have also made some internal upgrades that they'll install. Cost is $99 a pair, which I'd like to avoid but I'd rather have them refreshed now than to have them leak or perform poorly when the car's running.

It's cheaper than going with a new set of QA-1s.

So I'm going to polish them up (they recommended I do that first) and get them in the mail to Aldan asap so I can get them back and on the chassis.

My "final" calculations for spring rate say to use a 575 lb/in (10") spring in front assuming a 1.5" preload. I already bought 600 lb/in so I think I'll stick with them for now and change if they seem too stiff. I also calculated 550 lb/iin for the rear, but that's a 12" spring and a 1" preload. For some reason the 10" springs need to be compressed to install them on the shocks, but the 12" ones don't and are actually shorter than the shock body.

If 10", and 12" are the free length, how can the 12" be shorter than 10" ?

**chevynut** · 10-25-2016, 08:32 PM

Originally Posted by 55 Rescue Dog

If 10", and 12" are the free length, how can the 12" be shorter than 10" ?

Where did you get that? The front and rear shocks are different lengths as I explained. On the 10" shock the bottom of the body threads is at 10" from the top seat. One of the springs is about 10 1/8". It doesn't sound like a lot, but it's a 600 lb/in spring and it's a bitch to start the threads especially since I need to add a 1/8" Torrington thrust bearing between the nut and spring. The 12" shock is 12 1/2" from the top seat to the end of the threads. The spring is 12" so the nut on it starts easily.

**chevynut** · 10-26-2016, 02:35 PM

Got the shocks polished and they're going back to Aldan today. Hopefully they can turn them around fairly quickly.

20161026_002.jpg

**chevynut** · 10-28-2016, 09:52 PM

I got the rack lines finished today. Had to use a 90 degree hose end at the valve to get the hoses to lay down right. Never did hear anything back from Turn One.

20161028_011.JPG

20161028_014.jpg

**NickP** · 10-29-2016, 09:27 AM

Looks nice. Hurry up and finish it. I want a ride. It'll make a great hunting wagon!

**chevynut** · 10-29-2016, 10:04 AM

Get your ass over here to help me and it might get done quicker...but maybe not.

The thing is I'm making progress almost daily. I just hope there's enough days left.

Engine is going in soon. I need to get it off the engine stand, install the flywheel, and index the bellhousing. I think that may be easier done in the chassis than hanging on a cherrypicker. I have an engine dolly, but it needs to use the dowels to support it. Any other ideas?

**NickP** · 10-29-2016, 10:58 AM

Do you still have the wood crate?

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