600 is very aggressive if you want a mirror finish.
600 is very aggressive if you want a mirror finish.
I buff it after 600 grit. It's the buffing wheels that are leaving the fine scratches. You can't see the 600 grit scratches after buffing. I've even tried to sand with 1200 and 2000, and it looks the same afterward.Originally Posted by LEE T
56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
When all is working correctly, buffing removes scratches, so what are you using that is putting scratches in? I can't help you with your problem, I'm just saying something isn't right.
I agree. I think the buffing wheel itself is putting the scratches in the aluminum. The scratches are very fine, as I mentioned. I had the same problem buffing the stainless steel parts. It's probably buildup in the wheel that I can't get out with the rake. I use different wheels for the green compound and the white compound. I believe the white is the finest.
I just ordered some loose cotton wheels and I'll see if that helps. I'll use the white compound or red rouge.
56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
I wouldn't think you should use the same products for SS and alum.
Why don't you find a buffing forum and see what they use on alum?
I bought all my stuff from Caswell Plating and they say to use white compound on aluminum with a loose wheel.
http://www.caswellplating.com/buffman.htm
BLACK = Emery Compound, a course abrasive material for removal of scratches, pits, paint,
rust etc.
BROWN = Tripoli compound used for general purpose cut and color on most soft metals.
WHITE = Blizzard compound, used for color and final finish of harder metals, has a cutting action.
RED = Jeweller’s Rouge, designed to polish without any cutting action. Safe on thin plates. Use
on its own wheel.
BLUE = A dryer, almost greaseless wheel - designed to polish without any cutting action. Safe
on thin plates. Use on its own wheel.
GREEN = Used exclusively for Stainless Steel.
56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
The loose buffing wheels seem to help get a better shine, so I got some more polishing done. The halfshafts, rear caliper brackets are finished and I re-polished the lower a-arms, so they're all ready for cerakote. Then I have to install the new u-joints and put the halfshafts on the rearend. Still have the rear knuckles to do but they're really a PITA.
56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
Wow, great job re all ,, an esp the polishing. So so much work !! Your typical standing quality
I used Zoops sealer on my aluminum parts. I re-polished the aluminum dash Instrument plates about five years ago and applied the Zoops per their instructions. And surprisingly it's still shinny. Now I need to re-polish that radiator and core support, and wheels and and... I was a bit shy of spray one clear coats. Just a thought.
RE the trany install. I guess we were lucky when we installed my LS1 with a T-56 trans. The bell was well within the OEM spec. The TKO I helped a good friend install a few weeks ago was a serious PITA. The offset dowel pins got the run-out well within spec, but the TKO still makes noise at idle - Maker says it's typical... Hummmm.
RE the hyd clutch system. I've got three LS motors (LS1's & LS6) with the OEM hyg T.O. Bearings, never any issues. The shops up here that I've spoken with that's typical for Delco, but not the other makers, China etc....
My life long friend Steve design the hydraulic setup for my LS1 / T56 in Betty, my '56. The parts, master cylinder mounting plate etc, were designed on Solid Works. Mine's been in use since the Summer of 2007, flawless operation and no Leaks, I hate fluid leaks.
Simple setup, and No holes to drill or any welding etc.. Utilities 2001 era Camaro LS1 clutch master and hydraulic T.O. Bearing. You do need to remove the masters 1/4 inch non-adjustable captive push-rod and install the 5/16 inch hardened push-rod and spherical rod end.
We've still got several sets on the metal plates and push rods on the shelf somewhere. Let me know if you need a set and I'll mail you enough parts, less the master ans slave T.O. bearing.... I've got photos here someplace...
Michael..
I designed and built my own under-dash hydraulic clutch master cylinder setup. It's all hidden and nothing goes through the firewall....except the hose which is down low. Still not sold on the hydraulic TO bearing, though. I'll consider it if my slave doesn't work out.
The all-thread is just for mockup and new rods will be made.
56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
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