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Thread: Nomad C4 chassis assembly

  1. #601
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NCW View Post
    Being one dimensional in a photo, I assume there is sufficient room for heat dissipation or a shield to protect those two lines or is it felt that the open road will supply enough cool air?
    I think there's plenty of exhaust clearance for those lines. It's more than it appears in the picture, and I was very conscious of it when I routed the lines. If I feel they're too close later and the fuel gets warm, I can always put a silica fire shield over them. BTW, the picture is 2-dimensional.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


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    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
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    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  2. #602
    Registered Member NickP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    BTW, the picture is 2-dimensional.
    Yep, I knew that and was going to correct it but figured it would garner a ding. LOL

  3. #603
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Here's another view....The battery cables will be clamped to the toe board.

    20170816_003.JPG
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  4. #604
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Trying to tie up the last details of my chassis wiring and I came to the VSS connector. This is what the connector looks like, and I can't seem to find the mating part. Anyone know what kind it is? I thought it was a metri-pak 150 but it doesn't look like it.



    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  5. #605
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    I spent way too many hours researching this and ran to 3 auto parts stores looking for a pigtail or connector. Turns out that a 1990's Dodge Ram 1500 uses the exact same connector for the crank position sensor (that was the result of hours of research). But nobody local has the pigtail.

    I ended up ordering one of these ($6 shipped) that I THINK will work....It's not exact but I'm pretty sure it will go in. S-574 is the Standard Products PN in case anyone else runs into this.





    The GM VSS uses 2-wires but the Chrysler ones use a 3-wire hall-effect sensor. People have tried to replace the Chrysler one with a GM VSS but they don't fit. I thought about changing out the connector to a 3-position Weatherpak that I have, but they're quite a bit bigger and I need to put this through a hole in my tranny tunnel with several other wires and connectors. If this doesn't work I'll go ahead and do that, I guess, or go to a salvage yard and try to find one.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  6. #606
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    I'm looking for opinions from you expert critics.

    At one time I had planned to run my exhaust tips through the rear bumper and cut the bumper out around them. I was severely chastized by a few people on the forums who thought that would detract from my smoothie rear bumper, and I was on the fence about it. I want to get this car done so I decided not to mess with the bumper, and just turn the tips down ahead of it. I'm trying to get this done so I can send the bumper off to Ogden Crome soon.

    This is what I have now. I'm thinking I need to trim them back up closer to the bumper, but I'm not sure how much. I don't want to get any black stuff on the bumper from the exhaust, so I don't want to go too far.

    20170822_001.JPG

    20170822_002.JPG

    20170822_003.JPG

    20170822_004.JPG


    Right now I have allowed for 1/2" gap horizontally between the turndown and the bumper for expansion of the exhaust pipes. The pipes are recessed 1 1/2" into the frame crossmember, and the bottom of the bumper is even with the bottom of the frame.....so the 3" pipes extend 1 1/2" below the bumper. I hate it when the exhaust hangs below the frame.

    Should I cut more off the pipes and move the turndowns forward further? Should I cut the ends at an angle? I've seen turndowns done in a few different ways and I'm not even sure if they should show when looking at the rear bumper.

    Any opinions?
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  7. #607
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    The vision I had for mine was to turn down as yours did and not see them. What Earle did was rotate them to the side I assume to avoid exhaust from kicking up dust. When looking at them from the back of the car, they are partially visible, like 50% of the pipe. I like the effect of them being there but not prominent.

  8. #608
    Registered Member NickP's Avatar
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    I would be concerned about soot if they're closer in.
    Last edited by NickP; 08-22-2017 at 02:25 PM.

  9. #609
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    A 3/4 slice parallel to the ground would look good IMO.

  10. #610
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 55 Rescue Dog View Post
    A 3/4 slice parallel to the ground would look good IMO.
    I've thought about cutting the tips parallel to the ground but that looks too "old school" to me. Plus, to make it work I'd have to leave as much sticking out below/behind the bumper as I have now, which I think looks bad.



    After looking at it today I'm kinda thinking I only want about 1/2" or so visible below the bumper. I think as long as they're past the bumper I shouldn't get soot on the bumper, especially since they're turned down.

    I was thinking either leaving it cut perpendicular to the pipe (parallel to the existing cut end), or doing something like this angle which I think doesn't look as "old school".....




    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

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