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Thread: Nomad C4 chassis assembly

  1. #541
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 55 Rescue Dog View Post
    IMO just doesn't look right, and can be seen from the rear of the car.
    So when did you come to my shop and look at my chassis? The brake lines are not visible from the rear of the car, they're hidden by the knuckles, halfshafts, strut rods, toe rods, and dogbones. The way they're routed allows free movement of the suspension and full extension. I can find no other solution that works. Besides, I don't care what YOU think "looks right" based on stuff you've done.

    The ID of the braided flex lines is probably only 1/8 inch which limits the need for huge hard lines too. Not being subtle, if it were mine I would re-do all of the hard lines using 3/16's lines with inverted flares.
    Wow, you repeatedly show your ignorance RD. First of all, it's NOT YOURS. My fittings are all AN stainless which are used on airplanes, instead of inverted flares. The inverted flare fittings look like shit, imo, and that's why top car builders use AN fittings. For an inverted flare, you're supposed to double flare the lines which are much more difficult to do on stainless. AN fittings can use a single flare and look a lot better. And I don't need an AN to inverted flare adapter anywhere since most braided stainless hoses have AN ends.

    There's nothing wrong with the "huge" -4 lines, and in fact they're more robust than the -3 lines and imo look great too. Lots of vehicles use -4 brake lines, at least to the rear brakes. Bigger lines means less resistance to flow especially over long distances but that's not why I used them. I had a bunch of AN4 stainless fittings in stock....have you ever priced them? If I went with -3 you'd be complaining that there's not enough flow to the rear brakes.

    I see you gave up your complaining about using NPT fittings too. LMAO! Did you ever notice those BRASS NPT fittings on your welding gas regulators that can handle 3000+ PSI? Always a critic nitpicking shit you know nothing about.

    I'm still trying to figure out what makes a must have through the frame fitting mounted too high so cool where it's not needed?
    I posted pics so you could see why the through frame fitting is located where it is, but if you still don't understand that's your issue. The through-frame fitting can't be located where Newman put his lines as the pics clearly show, because there's a body mount there. And it's not "too high", and as I mentioned already the suspension is at full extension. There's probably 5" height difference at ride height. The C4 Corvette I posted is at least that.

    I'm not moving the fitting now, so I needed to find a workable solution to the brake hoses, something you can't seem to understand either. Why don't you quit worrying about what I'm doing and do something on your car for once instead of criticizing what I do?
    Last edited by chevynut; 03-24-2017 at 09:10 AM.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  2. #542
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    Quote Originally Posted by WagonWonder View Post
    It's good to see you two getting along so well. Having solid conversations with the obvious undertones of fishing. An image of your routing might help others out there building something similar RD. Also, for us beginners, how do you avoid a pipe fitting RD?
    Not good pics, and no calipers mounted, but here is an alternative flex line route, that I didn't figure out.


    IMG_0950.JPGIMG_0951.JPG

  3. #543
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 55 Rescue Dog View Post
    Not good pics, and no calipers mounted, but here is an alternative flex line route, that I didn't figure out.


    IMG_0950.JPGIMG_0951.JPG


    Sorry RD, but I personally think that looks like shit, certainly not something you'd see on a higher end car. The lines aren't even bent parallel and the brass is cheap looking imo. That ugly bracket is why I went with a through-frame fitting and I didn't want lines over the top or under the frame. Where's the caliper? Looks to me like the banjo may be a problem. Yours may work just fine, but I think mine LOOKS a lot better even with the 21" lines. Glad you're happy with it. No need for you to continue this discussion, mine is staying like it is.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  4. #544
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    I did some more accurate measuring of my wheels and tires today since we were discussing track and tire clearances on other threads.

    I laid my front and rear wheels and tires on the floor and put a straightedge across the top side of the tires. In the front I got 9 15/16" from the floor to the top side of the tire. That was a little surprising since they're 245s and theoretically are 9.65" wide. I also measured from the mounting surface to the top of the tire and calculated the wheel offset and it's 50mm (1.97"). In the rear I got a tire width of 12 1/16" (295s) and a wheel offset of 56mm.

    These numbers make my front track 58.06" and the outside of the front tires right at 68", a little wider than I had calculated before assuming a 62" mounting width. So it looks like 68" width is an acceptable number for a late C4 suspension on a 3" dropped 56.

    The outside of the rear tires is right at 68" (measured) and with the wheel offset of 56mm (2.20") the rear mounting surface width is calculated to be 60.30". The stock late C4 width is right at 63.25" so it all adds up with my 3" narrowed rear. My rear track is 55.94"....I'd call it 56" with potential measurement error.

    I received the custom color caliper paint that matches the frame and will be painting the front and rear calipers soon....then I can install them permanently. Need to order rear brake pads from Summit and will probably will get the HAWK HPS pads based on feedback on the Corvette Forum. The front Baer calipers came loaded.

    I got the radiator support assembly with radiator and fans mounted on the chassis, and need to finish the radiator hoses. A friend nearby said he can roll some beads on the stainless tubing.


    20170405_002 (1).JPG


    20170405_004.JPG
    Last edited by chevynut; 04-05-2017 at 02:50 PM.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  5. #545
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    I decided to bead blast all my rear caliper e-brake parts and get them off to the zinc plating shop. Since they charge a minimum lot charge, I added a whole bunch of other parts to the batch that I'll need in the near future....ashtrays and ashtray brackets, glove box hinge, headlight inner buckets, tailgate latch actuator and rods, door lock rods, and a whole bunch of miscellaneous other hardware. I'm sure I'm forgetting something but decided to send as much as I can now. Maybe I'll find some more stuff before I take it all down to Denver. When I took the first batch I never thought I'd come up with this much stuff for another batch.

    20170410_001 (1).JPG
    Last edited by chevynut; 04-10-2017 at 12:52 PM.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  6. #546
    Registered Member NickP's Avatar
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    What do they charge for that?

  7. #547
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Nick, it's barrel zinc plating and they have a minimum charge of $85 in either clear or yellow zinc. I added a few duplicate parts in that batch and this new batch just for the heck of it, and in case I lose some . I don't know how many pounds or whatever that minimum is, but my last batch was pretty big and it cost me $85. Since I didn't want any yellow zinc bolts on the chassis I stripped the yellow zinc off the new grade 8 bolts and had them re-plated clear zinc to look like everything else. I also had all the C4-specific bolts and a bunch of other parts plated in the first batch:

    20160127_012.jpg
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  8. #548
    Administrator 567chevys's Avatar
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    Stuff looks very good ,
    I have tons of stuff to get done .

    Question ?

    Don't they strip old stuff before they re plate ?

    Thanks Sid

    1955 2 DR Post
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  9. #549
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Sid, I glass bead blasted all my parts before I took them down. I don't know if they will clean them for you or not, but I assume if they do they charge more for that work. The new batch in the pic above is blasted, and the picture after that is plated parts.

    Yes, there are tons of things you can get zinc plated. I had a bunch of my brake assembly parts done along with all this bolts and nuts some of which were black oxide. I've tried to think of everything I might need for this batch but I'll bet I run into more parts I wish I had done. I've gone through my cabinets and some boxes and I'm still looking.

    The alternative to some of this is buying new bolts, but that can get expensive really fast. And new C4 bolts and other hardware aren't available anymore. Grade 8 bolts are virtually all yellow zinc. It's a real PITA to finish some of these small parts, and zinc plating works well.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  10. #550
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    I had another complete Nomad tailgate in my attic that I bought as a "spare" a few years ago and realized it has a lock assembly in it with the rods and latches. I disassembled it and I'm going to send the lock parts and rods out for plating too, then re-assemble it. I read they're worth big bucks. Searched through my boxes and I can't find anything else right now.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

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