Nomad C4 chassis assembly

[chevynut]

The extra hole in that plate seems to be *unusable* in your situation anyway, so I'd remove it to allow access to your sender... Why would removal of that unnecessary hole/flange from the plate affect the SFI rating? If you don't remove it, you're in for some 'future misery' at some point...

Supposedly ANY modification you do to an SFI bellhousing invalidates the SFI rating. I could move the sender, but I like it there best. I'll probably cut the bellhousing and block plate and leave the sender.

[markm]

Supposedly ANY modification you do to an SFI bellhousing invalidates the SFI rating. I could move the sender, but I like it there best. I'll probably cut the bellhousing and block plate and leave the sender.

You are correct sir, that includes painting them, additionally the rating is only good for 5 years, so you are probably screwed anyway.

[chevynut]

You are correct sir, that includes painting them, additionally the rating is only good for 5 years, so you are probably screwed anyway.

And that's pretty damn stupid, if you ask me. What the hell does painting them hurt? If it sits 5 years in a box, the rating expires? What dumb-ass rules they come up with .

I really don't care ....it's not a drag car and I needed a bellhousing so I bought a Lakewood scattershield.

[markm]

And that's pretty damn stupid, if you ask me. What the hell does painting them hurt? If it sits 5 years in a box, the rating expires? What dumb-ass rules they come up with .

I really don't care ....it's not a drag car and I needed a bellhousing so I bought a Lakewood scattershield.

That just the tip of the iceberg with the greedy bastards. Like my brand NIB seatbelts that are no good because they were mfg over two years ago. The NHRA is like a corrupt greedy politician skimming a price of all the action. Any thing with an SFI rating has an expiration date, seat belts, flywheels, bellhousings, helmets etc. I really like my old helmet, but like me it got old, so I bought a new one to take to tech inspection. When I get back to truck I switch.

[chevynut]

I went ahead and ordered the ARP starter bolts from Summit since I had a few things I needed to order anyhow, like another 2" mandrel bend for my headers and a header bolt kit. I got tired of calling around looking for the Dorman starter bolts and I figure the ARP ones are probably more accurate dimensionally. Summit ships pretty quick too. I don't understand why these specific bolts are so hard to find.

I have the pilot bushing in the freezer and I'll plan to install it tomorrow. I'm also going to cut the bellhousing away so I can get a wrench on the oil pressure sender, and make provisions for a spring between my clutch fork and clutch slave bracket. I forgot I needed that.

Hopefully the machine shop gets to my adapter early next week so I can get this flywheel/clutch/bellhousing stuff together and wrapped up. I'm already sick of working on it.

[55 Rescue Dog]

Seems like there is no end once you dive in, and I feel your pain. I just spent more on new sheet metal than I paid for my whole car, and it's still in the box. It's really making me sad GM didn't make some retro tri-fives, instead of Camaros.

[chevynut]

Hey guys, if you want to chit chat about retro designs, take it to your own thread please. This thread is for my Nomad assembly. Thanks.

[Rick_L]

I guess you'll have to edit your pristine "build book". LOL

You were probably going to have to anyway.

I doubt if you'd be happy with it unless all the posts were by you anyway.

[WagonWonder]

Are we not allowed to answer another persons posts?

[chevynut]

The machine shop called today and told me they had the adapter finished so I went and picked it up. They only charged me $20 for the work...I may go back and drop off a 6-pack.

Everything looks good but they did no de-burring so I did that myself. After de-burring I cleaned it up and re-assembled it to the engine. It was now pretty obvious that the holes were off so I "tweaked" them a little with a die grinder and burr so the bolts went in without binding. I installed my custom made shims and checked parallelism.....001" TIR.

So I bolted on the T56 case and checked it for concentricity. It's about the same as it was before, .0165" TIR with center shifted to the 4:00 position. I wanted to check it before I put the new offset dowels in to make sure it was still off the same. So the next step is to remove the dowels and install the offset ones, check it again and tweak them if needed. Looks like I should be able to get it withing a couple thousandths.

I also tried to install the pilot bushing but it seemed too big to me, and I couldn't get it started straight. I measured the crank hole and it's 1.090". The bushing was 1.096" which I thought was too much interference and if it collapsed that much my input shaft might not fit. I put it in my lathe and cut it down to 1.093" (Chevy standard size) and made a 1/8" long section a little under 1.090" to help align it. I'll try to install it again later.