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Thread: Nomad C4 chassis assembly

  1. #531
    Registered Member NickP's Avatar
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    looking good

  2. #532
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    Quote Originally Posted by 55 Rescue Dog View Post
    Well, I'm not sure you found the best route at all. Two 90's working against each other?
    Actually I was just surprised, that as nice as your chassis looks, that you installed your brake line so much higher than the fitting on the caliper, and using a NPT pipe fitting on your brake line. The flex hose could have been half that long, with a straight fitting mounted lower, and looked much better is all.

  3. #533
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 55 Rescue Dog View Post
    Actually I was just surprised, that as nice as your chassis looks, that you installed your brake line so much higher than the fitting on the caliper, and using a NPT pipe fitting on your brake line. The flex hose could have been half that long, with a straight fitting mounted lower, and looked much better is all.
    The front hoses are 16" (same as stock C4) and the rear ones are 21". No way would 11" lines work. I tried 16" lines in the rear and there was no way to route them. I even tried an angled banjo off the rear caliper but that made the line rub the frame. My tires are close to the dogbones so there was no way to go straight out using the 3AN port on the opposite end. A straight fitting out of the caliper was not an option.

    There's nothing wrong with NPT fittings in a brake system...how do you propose hooking up a Wilwood proportioning valve that has 1/8" NPT ports? My through-frame fittings came with 1/8" NPT ports on one end.

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/w...8419/overview/



    The stainless 90's don't hurt anything, and a 21" teflon core braided stainless hose isn't a problem in any way. I tried every way to route the brake hoses and the way I did it works great. They allow the full 4-5" of travel at the wheel with no problems and I think they look fine.

    Oh yeah, and my rear suspension with those horrible poly bushings that you claim "bind" works very smoothly fully torqued. I forgot to video it before I put the shocks on. I had to hold the suspension up to install the shocks because it wanted to fall to the floor.
    Last edited by chevynut; 03-22-2017 at 07:49 PM.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


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    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
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  4. #534
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Got the rear calipers disassembled and there sure are a lot of parts! I was kind of amazed at how good they were internally, almost new. I cleaned everything up and de-burred and smoothed then bead blasted the castings for rebuild. Not sure yet what I'm going to do with the hardware.....might go the zinc plating route if I have other stuff to throw in the bucket. The guy down the street who's building a wagon with one of our frames said he may want to plate a bunch of his C4 bolts, so we may do a batch together and split the cost. I can't put ugly hardware on the calipers now!!

    I decided to paint the front and rear calipers the orange body color, so I'll be ordering some custom-mixed caliper paint for them. Some people say regular automotive urethane works but I'm skeptical about that at brake temps. Not sure what to do with the caliper brackets but I'll wait to see how much paint I have before I decide to paint them orange or black.

    20170322_002.JPG
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  5. #535
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    Quote Originally Posted by 55 Rescue Dog View Post
    Actually I was just surprised, that as nice as your chassis looks, that you installed your brake line so much higher than the fitting on the caliper, and using a NPT pipe fitting on your brake line. The flex hose could have been half that long, with a straight fitting mounted lower, and looked much better is all.
    By comparison, my rear flex lines are 7 inches shorter than your 21 inch lines, at 14 inches with a straight inverted flare connector coming off the inboard side of the frame rail, and passes in between the dog bones, instead of looping under the lower one. Didn't need a pipe fitting for that.

  6. #536
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    Quote Originally Posted by 55 Rescue Dog View Post
    By comparison, my rear flex lines are 7 inches shorter than your 21 inch lines, at 14 inches with a straight inverted flare connector coming off the inboard side of the frame rail, and passes in between the dog bones, instead of looping under the lower one. Didn't need a pipe fitting for that.
    It's good to see you two getting along so well. Having solid conversations with the obvious undertones of fishing. An image of your routing might help others out there building something similar RD. Also, for us beginners, how do you avoid a pipe fitting RD?

  7. #537
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Wagonwonder, if you go back and read RD's posts you'll see he does a lot of "fishing" and subtle bashing in the guise of asking questions. So WTF is wrong with a 21" brake line? It just takes a little more fluid....lol! And there's absolutely no reason to avoid an NPT fitting in a brake system. Wilwood wouldn't sell the prop valves with those ports if there was.

    I put my through frame fitting where I thought it worked the best when I did the frame plumbing. There wasn't a better place to put it that I could see. At full shock extension I only have 8" between the caliper port and the frame fitting. At ride height there's probably only 5".....putting it at 3" or less at full suspension compression. Going under the dogbones seems to make the most sense.

    20070204_463.JPG

    20150324_001.JPG

    This is where Newman put his, which is probably where RD's is since it's a Newman knock-off:

    newman7.jpg


    Thisis where it is on a C4 Corvette:

    c4 vette rear.jpg
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  8. #538
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Sorry for the multiple posts....having ISP issues today.
    Last edited by chevynut; 03-23-2017 at 12:39 PM.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  9. #539
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    At least I try to be subtle and no, my lines are located nothing like Newman's. I'll try and get a pic when I can move all my wife's junk stored around and on the chassis currently in her attached garage. It seems to be mounted in the perfect location for a flex line without drooping under the suspension, which IMO just doesn't look right, and can be seen from the rear of the car. Mine is mounted in a neutral position relative to the caliper 4+ inches inboard and below the frame rail so it can easily move up 3 inches, or down 3 using a short line. The ID of the braided flex lines is probably only 1/8 inch which limits the need for huge hard lines too. Not being subtle, if it were mine I would re-do all of the hard lines using 3/16's lines with inverted flares. I'm still trying to figure out what makes a must have through the frame fitting mounted too high so cool where it's not needed?
    Last edited by 55 Rescue Dog; 03-23-2017 at 04:44 PM.

  10. #540
    Registered Member Custer55's Avatar
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    I did mine similar to the stock C4 set up, since I just bought Russell lines that are stock C4 Replacements. As long as it allows full suspension travel with out rubbing on anything what difference would it make how it is routed. Once the brakes are bleed there is no difference in brake function. If it were a stock rubber hose there could be more expansion issues with a longer line, but I don't see that as an issue with the braided lines. There are always things I would do differently if I had to do them again. As the saying goes "There is more than one way to skin a cat"
    Brian
    IMG_20160505_233323.jpg

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