R&R of the Dana 44

[markm]

Why do they use a crush sleeve anyhow? Faster and cheaper than shimming like a Dana. Many rears have kits available to delete the crush, I deleted the crush on my 9.3 Olds, it also has adjusters on side caps like 55-57 Chevy.

[Rick_L]

As markm said, a case spreader is kind of a luxury. Big pry bars and determination usually work just fine. Not something I've done multiple times, but I've seen many do it at the drag strip with the housing under the car.

The crush sleeve is a factory part used for settting pinion bearing preload without the need for shims. You torque the pinion nut and crush the sleeve until you get the specified friction drag when turning the pinion shaft with the proper small torque wrench. The problem with a crush sleeve is if you go too far you have to take everything apart and start over with another new crush sleeve. You can usually replace the front seal without replacing the crush sleeve. There are spacers and shims for 9" Fords and some other 3rd members that eliminate the crush sleeve. You put the pinion in with too many shims or the spacer being long and take an end play measurement, then remove shims or shorten the spacer based on the end play. All this is complicated by the shim adjustment required for pinion depth, which is needed to make the gears mesh properly. It's an interactive process, except on a Ford 9" which has a separate pinion housing where the shims go on the housing rather than behind the pinion bearing. That's one reason the Ford 9" is preferred by racers - building a Ford 9" 3rd member can be done anywhere and is more of a finesse deal. I've changed gear ratios in a Ford 9" third member at the track a few times, it's the easiest there is. (And before markm goes on his next rant about Ford traction lock units, this was a spool, track only stuff.)

[Bluegrass Trifive]

As markm said, a case spreader is kind of a luxury. Big pry bars and determination usually work just fine. Not something I've done multiple times, but I've seen many do it at the drag strip with the housing under the car.

The crush sleeve is a factory part used for settting pinion bearing preload without the need for shims. You torque the pinion nut and crush the sleeve until you get the specified friction drag when turning the pinion shaft with the proper small torque wrench. The problem with a crush sleeve is if you go too far you have to take everything apart and start over with another new crush sleeve. You can usually replace the front seal without replacing the crush sleeve. There are spacers and shims for 9" Fords and some other 3rd members that eliminate the crush sleeve. You put the pinion in with too many shims or the spacer being long and take an end play measurement, then remove shims or shorten the spacer based on the end play. All this is complicated by the shim adjustment required for pinion depth, which is needed to make the gears mesh properly. It's an interactive process, except on a Ford 9" which has a separate pinion housing where the shims go on the housing rather than behind the pinion bearing. That's one reason the Ford 9" is preferred by racers - building a Ford 9" 3rd member can be done anywhere and is more of a finesse deal. I've changed gear ratios in a Ford 9" third member at the track a few times, it's the easiest there is. (And before markm goes on his next rant about Ford traction lock units, this was a spool, track only stuff.)

The one Dana that I did years ago was a steel case and I did do it without a spreader. It wasn't that difficult and in fact didn't have a crush sleeve it had a spacer which I had to machine to get the turning torque correct. I ground it in a v-block on a surface grinder. I'm not sure but I think it might have been either a Strange or Summers unit. The C4-44 aluminum case in my opinion is a bit of a different animal. The Dana manual is pretty clear about not spreading it more than .015 while using an indicator to confirm. I can only assume they have a reason for that spec as they note the possibility of distortion damage to the housing. Since its a pretty expensive piece I'll fab up a spreader. $20 worth of 1.5" flat stock and some shop time and I'll be ready to go. I agree the 9" Ford design will spoil you.

[markm]

The one Dana that I did years ago was a steel case and I did do it without a spreader. It wasn't that difficult and in fact didn't have a crush sleeve it had a spacer which I had to machine to get the turning torque correct. I ground it in a v-block on a surface grinder. I'm not sure but I think it might have been either a Strange or Summers unit. The C4-44 aluminum case in my opinion is a bit of a different animal. The Dana manual is pretty clear about not spreading it more than .015 while using an indicator to confirm. I can only assume they have a reason for that spec as they note the possibility of distortion damage to the housing. Since its a pretty expensive piece I'll fab up a spreader. $20 worth of 1.5" flat stock and some shop time and I'll be ready to go. I agree the 9" Ford design will spoil you.

I am surprised at your comments about the spacer, I have always had to add .002, .003 shims etc. with the spacer. FYI Rick my 9.3 Olds with Fabcraft spacer for Crush was the easiest rear I ever put together. I really do not mind 10 or 12 bolts either.

[Rick_L]

Some do the spacer too short and add the shims. Some do it long and require machining to length. If you don't have a lathe handy the shims would be preferred.

[Bluegrass Trifive]

I am surprised at your comments about the spacer, I have always had to add .002, .003 shims etc. with the spacer. FYI Rick my 9.3 Olds with Fabcraft spacer for Crush was the easiest rear I ever put together. I really do not mind 10 or 12 bolts either.

The Dana I built (15 years ago) was the only one I've ever done and all the components were new except for the housing. I can't really comment on weather it was normal to cut the spacer or not. I would assume it was designed to be slightly long and machine to length. I do remember the owner saying the spacer was ordered in place of a crush sleeve.

[chevynut]

So isn't the crush sleeve just a spacer? I guess I'm having a hard time visualizing how this actually works. Seems to me that if it crushes, the pinion depth changes and you need to shim anyhow. The good thing is it looks like they're cheap.

I have to replace the pinion yoke on my D44 with a 1350 yoke so I need to go through all of this to set it all up correctly. I have two complete 3.45 and 4.10 Dana 44HD differentials and two new sets of 3.73 and 4.10 gears. I guess I need to revisit my gear ratios to see which I really want to use. As I understand it the Viper 4.10 gears can be used with the 3-series case since the ring gear is the thicker type. I'm certain the Vipers used the same carrier as the C4 Corvettes and they also used the 4.10 gears.

I'll be following this rebuild...please post lots of details.

[Bluegrass Trifive]

So isn't the crush sleeve just a spacer? I guess I'm having a hard time visualizing how this actually works. Seems to me that if it crushes, the pinion depth changes and you need to shim anyhow. The good thing is it looks like they're cheap.

I have to replace the pinion yoke on my D44 with a 1350 yoke so I need to go through all of this to set it all up correctly. I have two complete 3.45 and 4.10 Dana 44HD differentials and two new sets of 3.73 and 4.10 gears. I guess I need to revisit my gear ratios to see which I really want to use. As I understand it the Viper 4.10 gears can be used with the 3-series case since the ring gear is the thicker type. I'm certain the Vipers used the same carrier as the C4 Corvettes and they also used the 4.10 gears.

I'll be following this rebuild...please post lots of details.

In my opinion the crush sleeve is utilized on a production line to reduce cost of equipment required. They basically spin the pinion nut down with a nutrunner, set to the required torque to crush, confirm the rotation torque and adjust as required all with one device. The equipment requirements to install, measure, remove, add shim, re-install, re-measure etc. would be greatly more expensive. I will post pictures as I go through the process of overhaul on mine.

[markm]

Not a spacer it provides for preload on bearings.

[chevynut]

Is there a tutorial anywhere online that shows how to shim the pinion? So it sounds like the crush sleeve really doesn't "crush" that much, and just acts like a spring to keep load on the tapered bearings. I thought the pinion depth would change when it "crushed", wouldn't it?