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Thread: Engine stand rotation

  1. #21
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    I'm sure everyone must know this. The best way to keep from tipping a engine over on a stand while torqueing bolts, is to simply stand on the stand.

  2. #22
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    You guys were right...the engine rotates a little too easily now. I may have to clean off the grease.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


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  3. #23
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    I guess sometimes the is nothing like real world experience to help find the right answer.

  4. #24
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Well maybe as I add weight it won't turn quite so easy. It's pretty top-heavy with the bare block on it and adding the crank and caps should help balance it. Don't know what will happen when I put the pistons and rods back in, but it does have a lockbolt on it.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  5. #25
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    The effort to turn it will only increase as you add more parts. Follow markm's advice/comment. It will be good until the heads are on it. At that point don't turn it again.

    Here's the way I do it. I assemble the short block and don't install the oil pan and pump yet, also no timing cover. This requires the block to be at various angles the way I do it because I want the bore horizontal when I install the piston/rod assembly and upside down when I torque the rod bolts. Then I rotate the block to right side up, degree the cam and check valve to piston clearance with the heads on but not torqued and with old head gaskets (you didn't throw the old ones away yet, right?). Once these checks are complete, take the heads/pushrods back off, put the timing cover and oil pump/pan on with the short block upside down. Flip it over and lock the rotator. Now you can install the heads/valve train and never have to turn the engine stand again.

    That works 95% of the time or more. The other 5% you do what you have to do because you see something or did something out of the ordinary.

    All this will become more obvious the more times you do it.
    Last edited by Rick_L; 04-01-2016 at 04:35 PM.

  6. #26
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    Believe it or not, the best way to assemble pistons, and rods to the crank on an engine, is with it vertical on the flywheel. That's how it's done in production, and I did it before I knew, 43 years ago, with a 427 HO BBC, on a rented kitchen floor, when I was 19, in the Navy, Long Beach. That motor turned out perfect. Actually, I haven't had a better one since. I did something right, and didn't know how I did it. SoCal was amazing back then. Speed-O- Motive was my inspiration, and they were pioneer hot rodding engine builders back in the early 70"s. BTW, the 425hp 427ci motor was very close to the L-88, only with iron heads, and 11:1 CR. The 435hp tri-power was good for sales though. It took me many years to appreciate how much I learned, and never have learned more, or, experienced since. Those were the learning years that I let slide, that are priceless now.
    Last edited by 55 Rescue Dog; 04-01-2016 at 05:48 PM.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by 55 Rescue Dog View Post
    I'm sure everyone must know this. The best way to keep from tipping a engine over on a stand while torqueing bolts, is to simply stand on the stand.
    Yes. Stand on it from behind the mounting head, and you're pulling the wrench so the engine wants to rotate back towards the post.

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