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Thread: How do you guys deal with a dinged up frame?

  1. #21
    Registered Member rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017's Avatar
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    I have a one piece frame I assume is it the same thickness as a 2 piece?

  2. #22
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick_L View Post
    My 2 piece frame is pretty consistently around .110" thick where I've measured it after cutting into it on the front crossmember and the area for the pocket kit for the rear spring mounts.

    The bottom of my front crossmember had jack damage from placing the jack in the center of it. Zipped that part off, straightened it, and welded it back on.
    There may be a different thickness used on some parts of the frame, but GM spec'd the frame rails at .090" or 3/32". I assume they used a standard steel sheetmetal gauge thickness:

    11 gauge .120"
    12 gauge .105"
    13 gauge .090"
    14 gauge .075"

    Of course the specific manufacturer could have used slightly thicker steel than specified, because it was probably a minimum thickness. I believe there were 3 different manufacturers of Tri5 frames.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
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    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
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    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  3. #23
    Registered Member NickP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick_L View Post
    My 2 piece frame is pretty consistently around .110" thick where I've measured it after cutting into it on the front crossmember and the area for the pocket kit for the rear spring mounts.

    The bottom of my front crossmember had jack damage from placing the jack in the center of it. Zipped that part off, straightened it, and welded it back on.
    Thanks for getting this back on track. If, it's a driver, why bother?

  4. #24
    Registered Member rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NickP View Post
    Thanks for getting this back on track. If, it's a driver, why bother?
    You have a valid point. Like I told Robert I just want to pull the larger ones out if possible if not to much headache else as you say I'll just leave them as is..... I'm not going to spend any time trying to smooth and clean the factory welds. there so nasty in places that they make mine look like a pro did it lol....

  5. #25
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NickP View Post
    Thanks for getting this back on track. If, it's a driver, why bother?
    I don't know about you guys but even for a driver I couldn't leave dents that I could easily fill or remove....it's just not my nature to do that. And even so-called "drivers" get into car shows now and then (I've seen lots of them at Goodguys events), and car guys often look under cars. To me, failure to clean up at least some reasonable amount of dents and other crap suggests overall shoddy workmanship. JMO.

    I say if it's easy to do, and it's in a visible place, then make it as good as you can. If you don't, some day you'll have it on a lift and might look at the dents and say "boy, I should have fixed those".
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

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