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Thread: How much paint will I need for a 55 Chevy Sedan?

  1. #21
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    My painter and I discussed using white sealer and decided not to do it. He lets his sealer cure, then wet sands it prior to paint to level it perfectly. He says if you don't do that you'll see it in the final basecoat (he's really picky). We decided to spray a white base before spraying the orange instead. It's thin, doesn't orange peel, and makes everything the same color.....and it's pretty cheap.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


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    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
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    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  2. #22
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    Chevynut, That's what I was thinking. Why do all the work I did to achieve a smooth surface only to spray a sealer just before paint which will have orange peel (I know this to be true because I sprayed a test panel with SPI epoxy as a sealer reduced 10% and no matter how I sprayed there was some orange peel). I'm going to wet sand with 600 grit just before painting. Thanks to all the help!

  3. #23
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    The downside to NOT wet sanding your sealer is that any dust nibs not found at that stage will leave a tiny white dot in the bright red paint once you cut and buff. So yes, another session of wetsanding is recommended after spraying your white sealer, as we did on the Fairlane.. If you do have any sand throughs, mix a small amount of sealer and spray over those areas alone, let flash per tech sheet, before following up with base.
    Robert



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  4. #24
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    I've been using all PPG products on my Nomad and their DPLF sands like crap, so I really had a hard time considering using it as a sealer. I always thought sealer was for paint adhesion, but I was told it's more for getting a uniform color before shooting the base.

    My plan is to get the car to the painter pretty much ready to shoot, do a little more final touch-up sanding if needed, then shoot it. I didn't want to shoot the sealer, wait several days for it to cure enough to sand, another day or two to sand it, and then shoot the base. Shooting an opaque white base made more sense to me than shooting white sealer. And it can all be done without rolling the car in and out of the booth. Any downside to that?
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  5. #25
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    DPLF is a non sanding epoxy! Its not made for sanding, epoxies are made in different ways. Its also not chemical resistant.

  6. #26
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    Question #2099 lol

    7.5 cfm @ 40 psi enough compressor? I will not be painting the whole car at once. Biggest piece will be the quarters and door jams. Then at a latter date I will do the doors and trunk lid.... then Hood and finders...., dash and firewall... then all the smalls.

    Question #2100

    Will be buying a Iwata LPH400LH should I get the 1.3 or 1.4 tip for base and clear coat?

    Thanks!

  7. #27
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    Doc your compressor is too small for most paint guns. Most are going to need 10-12 cfm @50 psi. I don't know the specifics on the Iwata and didn't look them up, but it's in that range.

    You might look for a quality gun that is more miserly on the air consumption - or a bigger compressor. I don't have a recommendation on a miserly gun. I use a Sharpe Platinum which is no longer made that would fit the requirement. I bought it when I had a compressor similar to yours but a little bigger - have now upgraded. One good thing about a gun with limited air consumption is that it puts out less paint in a given time, which can be a good thing for a novice or occasional painter. Lets you go slow and deliberate, which is OK because you want a good job and you're not doing it for a living.

    Regardless of the rest of the factors, you probably want a 1.3 tip - better atomization of the paint, which means a smoother finish all else equal.

  8. #28
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    Thanks Rick!

    Bought a new compressor which should do the job... Quincy 5-HP 60-Gallon Two-Stage QT Pro Air Compressor (230V 1-Phase) CFM
    15.4
    CFM Rated @
    90 PSI

    My son was happy because he gets my old compressor.

    Gun arrived yesterday Iwata 5642 LPH400 LV Gravity Fed Spray Gun, 1.3mm w/ 700ml Alum Cup

    Can't wait for the day I'm done spending money on this money pit because I'm running out.

  9. #29
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    Painting is expensive I cannot believe how much I have spent getting an 87 GMC 4x3 ready to paint and its a driver

  10. #30
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    So true, but a lot less then the 10K everybody wanted to just spray my car, no body work.

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