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Thread: How much paint will I need for a 55 Chevy Sedan?

  1. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by BamaNomad View Post

    Doc: Did you end up spraying a thinned epoxy sealer coat before spraying?? or not? I've always been wary of 'mixing' paint brands, but whatever you did seems to have worked. (I think PPG is the best brand to use btw, and concept is great!).. I need to contact Bill at that website to see if I can save a bit of $$ on my next paint purchase.
    I ran out of epoxy so I called Barry at SPI to order more, he told me it's not necessary to use a sealer. He said to sand with 400 then paint which I was happy to hear because I saved $200 and it would add so much more work for me to use a sealer. As for using what I used, PPG Deltron 2000 DBC BC/CC over SPI epoxy and universal clear over the PPG paint, he guaranteed me there would be no issues. So far he's right.

    Here's where I bought my paint.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/PPG-Deltron-...285394&vxp=mtr
    Last edited by DocHarley; 03-01-2017 at 05:21 PM.

  2. #72
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Obviously you didn't need a sealer coat, Doc.. but using a thinned epoxy primer as a seal coat is not a lot of work since you thin it down and it goes on smooothly - no need to sand. Just let it sit the prescribed time, then spray your color.

  3. #73
    Moderator chevynut's Avatar
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    So when using a non-metallic paint, what's the advantage of using BC/CC over single stage urethane? It seems like it makes the job harder, since single stage would allow sanding of intermediate coats if you found defects, then just shoot another coat on. When polishing single stage you don't have to worry as much about cutting through the clear coat, because there isn't any. I think the shine is comparable too. Aren't most non-metallic cars single stage?

    Bamanomad, my painter wet sands his sealer because it doesn't go on perfectly smooth no matter how hard you try. It's only an issue with metallic paints and he claims that he can tell the difference in the way the basecoat lays down. It does cause a lot more work but he paints $1 million plus vintage Maseratis and Ferraris.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension

    You can see my 56 Nomad build here http://www.picturetrail.com/chevynut

    For affordable C4 Corvette Suspension conversions for your car, visit http://www.classicedgedesigns.com

    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax

  4. #74
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    I prefer single stage vs base coat / clear coat urethanes for two reasons:
    1) Old cars (originally painted with lacquer or enamel - no clear) just seem (to me) to be 'plastic looking' when they have clear on them.
    2) Single stage can be sanded/buffed similarly to lacquer (if you do it soon enough) so paint flaws (drips, orange peel) can be eliminated and the buffing brings out a shine very similar to a perfect lacquer paint job.

    Yes, I remember and like how the old cars looked when they were new as compared to new cars today which all have clear coat on them.

    CN: there's a lot of information online from various forums on the pros/cons of use (and how to) re sealers. There are a few reasons you will find as to why a sealer might not lay down 'flat', but all the reasons have a solution... The paint must be thin enough, and the paint gun nozzle must be small enough to totally atomize the sealer, in which case it will go down flat. Note: Sealer should not be applied 'thick'... just a coating. When i've used it it *covers* easily in one coat. It's total purpose is to seal off the lower primers/oldpaint/etc from the new color going on top. If you've started from metal and used a single mfg products all the way up, a sealer is probably not necessary (but shouldn't hurt!)..

    PS. I consider myself fairly knowledgable for a 'sometimes/hobbyist' painter and I've painted a handful of my and my friend's cars over the past 20 yrs (not hundreds as a paint shop painter would do). But, I've been *involved* in paint/bodywork since my teens (50 + yrs), and I've always read/studied all I could find re painting. I DO follow the paint mfg's Technical Instructions for whatever paint I'm using each time, and I try to stay within a single manufacturer's products (Ditzler/PPG for me).

    PPS. For the reasons above, I've never painted with basecoat/clearcoat system, but if I HAD to paint a metallic paint today, I would step into the BC/CC world and TRY... .. since all I've heard is that the metallics will *settle downward* when curing/drying, and 'sanding/buffing' will make the inconsistency of the metallics even worse (if a single state is used)...
    Last edited by BamaNomad; 03-02-2017 at 07:22 AM.

  5. #75
    Moderator chevynut's Avatar
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    Doc, getting back to the topic of this thread, you said you bought 3 gallons of base. How much of it did you end up using? How much clear?
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension

    You can see my 56 Nomad build here http://www.picturetrail.com/chevynut

    For affordable C4 Corvette Suspension conversions for your car, visit http://www.classicedgedesigns.com

    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax

  6. #76
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    ChevyNut, I sprayed three coats base and used a full two gallons of paint mixed 50/50 so a total of 4 gallons. I did not spray inside the trunk or car except for about 4 inches around the edges on the insides. The reason I did not spray where I didn't was those areas are covered with 3 coats SPI epoxy and topped off with Dynamat and did not see any advantage to painting inside. And.... by not painting those areas, I have a gallon left over so I can paint my huge tool box Viper Red!!!! I suspect if I painted everything I would have needed another gallon of paint.

    As for the clear I sprayed 3 "HEAVY" coats and used 2-1/2 gallons so a total of 5 gallons mixed. I now know I applied too much clear because I had to do a lot of sanding to make the clear flat so there are no waves/bumps or what ever there called. However, I'm glad I did because since this was my first cut and buff job I had room to learn the best technique and had room for error.

  7. #77
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    I screwed up, please help!!! Spot about 1" long 1" wide on the front top corner of my hood, did not hit the paint but I can see where the clear is so thin it has craters. What's the best way to spot fix clear?

    This was my last part to cutt and buff and this happens, so depressing

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