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Thread: Suspension Bushings - Delrin, Rulon or Other

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    A rubber bushing is bonded to the sleeve and the shell, so by it's design it acts as a spring as you said. Add up all the little springs in each bushing and you get a lot of "binding" in the suspension which inhibits articulation. It's very hard to move a stock C4 rear suspension, or even a front C4 suspension. I have to loosen the nuts on the upper a-arm shafts to get them to move in my jig. They're always under shear loading, so they eventually fail by tearing.

    A poly or other polymeric bushing slides on the sleeve so there is no such "springiness" when designed and installed correctly. I found that mine worked a lot more smoothly when the bushings were the same width as the sleeve length. I think that's how they're supposed to be designed, but the manufacturers can't anticipate the tolerances in the suspension parts so they seem to cut them to the large side which causes friction on the sides of the bushings. In any case, you should lube the sides too when assembling the suspension.

    The spherical bearings probably provide the best articulation but the tradeoff is NVH and wear. I think the poly bushings are better for a street-driven car. Even a solid axle with a 4-link has some angular displacement as the car rolls. But poly bushings work well there too.
    BS! All 4 link trailing arms need to move in 3 different arcs, whether IRS or solid axel. Up/down, twist, and side to side.
    And if you really think about it, rubber bushings are actually less restrictive than even heim joints loaded. No friction, just a little progressive twisting of the rubber. If the bushings can't twist, then the trailing arm will try to, which is where the binding comes into play.
    Last edited by 55 Rescue Dog; 11-21-2016 at 03:59 PM.

  2. #22
    Registered Member NickP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 55 Rescue Dog View Post
    BS! All 4 link trailing arms need to move in 3 different arcs, whether IRS or solid axel. Up/down, twist, and side to side.
    And if you really think about it, rubber bushings are actually less restrictive than even heim joints loaded. No friction, just a little progressive twisting of the rubber. If the bushings can't twist, then the trailing arm will try to, which is where the binding comes into play.
    How about this guys. I'll start another post about Rubber VS Poly and you that want to argue, go there.

  3. #23
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    I'm done arguing with RD because he has no clue about what's going on in these suspensions. The angular displacements are so small that it doesn't matter except in RD's imagination. Poly does allow some tiny amounts of twisting, as does rubber. He's totally full of shit and should just stick with his tire changing an cutting away offending sheetmetal to make tires fit.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
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    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
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    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  4. #24
    Registered Member oceangoer's Avatar
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    Chevynut,,, I get that.

    BTW all, lots of nice input. I do enjoy learning and often re-learning... with few exceptions.

    IMHO... We all should understand what we're about to modify prior to,, esp suspension and steering. IMHO that includes toe in, toe out, IC, Camber, caster, bump steer, jacking, Scrub, under steer, over steer and Roll Center as a minimum. And at the very least what happens when one lowers his car or changes the wheel offsets, esp reversed wheels. Well heck, that's just me, picky picky Engineer getting fussy....

    In one installs that incorrect or inferior fuel pump etc, your in for a Tow,, maybe. Screw up the suspension, now your into serious issues.

    MY Dad always told me that your Brakes, steering, and related suspension components are most important when one is in a Panic situation, like a panic stop, or in a corner in heavy rain, can't see well - is no time to wonder if your brakes are up to Par or if your car is going to over-steer in this slippery corner or what else...

    But in my new Build, I'm sticking with spherical rod ends on my C4 rear control arms, Toe, and lower camber bars. I've had years of reliable driving wit these in the rear of my C4 Convert. Last thing I want is any side to side movement in my control arms or Camber rods. No idea yet to what I'll be using for the front control arms, poly-graphite or perhaps Del-a-Lums, photo below.

    I'll not be ever installing rubber control arm bushings again ever. The front control arms in my C4 have 8K miles on genuine GM rubber control arm bushings that I installed in 2000 which was a complete sus rebuild. The rubber bushings are so hard now that when I changed the wheels and tires a few months ago, the front will still not settle. I don't need another project, but I'll be replacing the bushing in the front once again. Is there not a perfect control arm bushing ?

    I don't mind fitting front C.A. bushings one by one as I have read that Chevynut successfully completed. I just really do despise doing anything twice, once is enough.

    Thanks Guys, much appreciated...

    Michael.. OH ya, did I read , more photos Well my old '56 has an old paint job, a 10 footer. But she's a sweetheart. The Body is Original,. not much else..
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  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    I'm done arguing with RD because he has no clue about what's going on in these suspensions. The angular displacements are so small that it doesn't matter except in RD's imagination. Poly does allow some tiny amounts of twisting, as does rubber. He's totally full of shit and should just stick with his tire changing an cutting away offending sheetmetal to make tires fit.
    That good because your ruining this site.

  6. #26
    Registered Member NickP's Avatar
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    Experimental - 001


  7. #27
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    That good because your ruining this site.
    I provide more technical input and project updates on this site than you even dream about. It's idiots like some of you who have nothing useful to add and just badmouth everyone else's projects that are ruining the site.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  8. #28
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NickP View Post
    Experimental - 001
    Nick, what holds those outer races in? Are you going to cut a snap-ring groove? Looks pretty cool.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  9. #29
    Registered Member NickP's Avatar
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    AA spacer (AKA washer) and snap ring or maybe a Spiro Lock ring - the other side will have an adjuster/tensioner (threaded) that locks into position. Also a grease zerk.

  10. #30
    Registered Member oceangoer's Avatar
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    Nice job Nick, I like !!

    Anxiously waiting your conclusion.

    Grease Jerk, yes please.

    Flat washers with spring washers ??

    Michael....

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