Suspension Bushings - Delrin, Rulon or Other

[NickP]

Nice job Nick, I like !!

Anxiously waiting your conclusion.

Grease Jerk, yes please.

Flat washers with spring washers ??

Michael....

I have some studying to do first but the tapered snap rings seem to have issues in other similar installs.



https://www.rotorclip.com/spiral_ring_overview.php

Grease Zerk type:

[55 Rescue Dog]

I provide more technical input and project updates on this site than you even dream about. It's idiots like some of you who have nothing useful to add and just badmouth everyone else's projects that are ruining the site.

Well your almost half right anyway. You set the example.

[NickP]

55 RD, is it your intent to mess with every single post on this site? If your intent is to destroy it, then my suggestion to the owner is to do away with either the site, you or me so I don't have to witness the demise of it.

[oceangoer]

Rick,

I was thinking more like a single layer spring washer on at least one side and Delrin Washers on both sides to locate the control arm(s) centers.
But, even this will prob need a S/S or hardened flat washer on each side placed between Delrin washers and the mounting bracket to prevent Galling.

Sure seems like a reasonable idea.
...

No doubt less costly than a set of rods ends and new threaded tubular Camber Arms.

Michael...

[chevynut]

You set the example.

You're the one with your head tucked tightly up your ass and who can't understand simple engineering. You have dozens of posts questioning everything I've done on my frame, how bad the C4 suspension is, and no matter how many times it's explained to you, you just don't get it. You do your shit your own way and I'll do it mine so STFU about what I choose to do.

[chevynut]

I have some studying to do first but the tapered snap rings seem to have issues in other similar installs.

What kind of issues? I would think a snap ring would work well if designed to take the side loads. I like your choice of grease zerks because they don't stick out like the regular ones. Do you have to machine the struts for the races, or did you make the races to fit? The early C4 struts would take two of the smaller ones.

[NickP]

On several Johnny Joints I have here, the assembly width was pretty snug and is forcing the tapered end to roll up. I don't think it will be an issue in what I'm trying but I'd rather take a hard look at it. Also, the Johnny Joint's race is a one piece poly piece. The races I have are a PTFE mix. And yes, the race is cut to fit rather than removing material and reducing the section thickness. I'm waiting on the tap and the grooving tool/inserts now.

On the early C4 Camber Strut are both ends the same size on the outside of the forging end for end?

While we're on the rear suspension, where is the OAW wheel flange to wheel flange difference?

[chevynut]

On the early C4 Camber Strut are both ends the same size on the outside of the forging end for end?

Not sure if this is what you're asking, but both bores are the same. I don't know why you'd be concerned about the outside but as far as I can tell you can put them in either way, meaning there isn't an inboard and outboard end like with the late ones. Here's an early one:

While we're on the rear suspension, where is the OAW wheel flange to wheel flange difference?

It's in the knuckle. You know how the late knuckle is built and that the thick caliper bracket is separate on them. Here's a good comparison pic. Not sure where they got the "88.5" from.

[NickP]

[55 Rescue Dog]

Looks good Nick, but some way other than snap rings to retain the bearings would be great. Either press fit, or something to clamp the bearing races.