Suspension Bushings - Delrin, Rulon or Other

[chevynut]

Nick, since you'll have to do some machining anyhow for snap ring(s) why not open up the bore but leave a step on one side so you can use only one snap ring to hold it all together. No way would I trust a press-fit, especially a PTFE/plastic race into aluminum, and I think it would easily squeeze out without a positive retainer of some sort. The split race is going to make keeping it together challenging, imo. I think the Spiro-loks are made for lower side loads than the tapered snap rings.

[55 Rescue Dog]

Putting a hardened steel snap ring in an soft aluminum groove snugly, that is going to narrow the assembly a lot, doesn't seem like a great idea though. Johnny joints are great, but they are much bigger than any other bushing for some reason. If someone modified and put together the right combinations of Johnny joints and links, I would have bought, or buy those. Dog bones with just RH threads is all that is need for those links, but not the camber links of course.

[NickP]

Putting a hardened steel snap ring in an soft aluminum groove snugly, that is going to narrow the assembly a lot, doesn't seem like a great idea though. Johnny joints are great, but they are much bigger than any other bushing for some reason. If someone modified and put together the right combinations of Johnny joints and links, I would have bought, or buy those. Dog bones with just RH threads is all that is need for those links, but not the camber links of course.

You do realize that a Johnny Joint has a "Poly" race, right? Regardless of that, There are Johnny Joints that can be used with either Aluminum or Steel tubes and will fit within the confines of the two spaces where the current camber bar resides. It's a matter of a sleeve to reduce a 5/8" bore in the joint down to the hole size at the adjuster and the other end (knuckle) two thin washer shims with a 5/8" hole. That same JJ comes in left and right hand thread.

You mention purchasing them and talk with regards to the DogBones which I thought you already have. Not certain what you have going on there.

[NickP]

Nick, since you'll have to do some machining anyhow for snap ring(s) why not open up the bore but leave a step on one side so you can use only one snap ring to hold it all together. No way would I trust a press-fit, especially a PTFE/plastic race into aluminum, and I think it would easily squeeze out without a positive retainer of some sort. The split race is going to make keeping it together challenging, imo. I think the Spiro-loks are made for lower side loads than the tapered snap rings.

I haven't studied the Spiro-Loks much yet. I'm confused about "positive retainer". Doesn't a piston pin in some applications use a form of spiro-lok?

[chevynut]

I'm confused about "positive retainer". Doesn't a piston pin in some applications use a form of spiro-lok?

Yeah but a piston pin doesn't have a lot of side load, if any, so I spiro-loc works fine there. These strut rod bearings have some side loads although I don't think they're very high. To me the load will come from within, as the spherical bearing pushes on the races and tries to separate them. Seems to me the best choice would be the tapered snap ring and washer for that application.

[NickP]

Still studying but there are several versions of them from a light duty to extra heavy duty. Regardless, retention of the bearing halves is not just the retainer ring but as you mentioned, the washer also. Still a lot to learn but nothing ventured nothing gained.

[rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017]

NVH - I would assume, relative to our slice of heaven, that each individual has their own threshold of tolerance relative to this condition within his/her own car and in this case, a 50+ year old one at that. Isolating noise in this instance, i.e. a C4 suspended vehicle shouldn't be that difficult especially due to the rear IRS essentially floating with only very few components transmitting a sound. Batwing - two mounting points isolated by either rubber or poly. The nose of the third member assembly attached with a form of a ladder or other form of extension typically with a poly rod end. Now, enter the anti-sway bar - isolated by rubber or poly at two points along with the connectors being anything from a rod end or a simple bolt with poly or rubber locators. If a stock spring is utilized there is a pretty good sounding board there but again, it's an integral component isolated by the three previously mentioned locations. If coil over shocks are utilized and each of the mount points have spherical bearings I suspect it might transmit some undesirable noise. The use of poly here will address that though.

For the bulk of my past hotrods, I simply cranked up the stereo for the "street car" and for the most part the car had so many other detectable outpourings of noise and vibration I really never noticed them because I was having too much fun.

I'm looking at a Delran "Acetal AF blend, supplied as a 2:1 blend of Acetyl AF-100 and Acetal 150 resins" now to play with for some new dogbone and camber rods. Newman had a huge price attached to their product but I think I have a solution that can be very competitive.

It's fun to try if for no other reason than to stay out of the bars at night.

Nick I tend to agree with your second paragraph lol. Still doing that on my current one. I went from rubber to delrin in front arms. The ls1 dropped the rpm by 1000 over stock which reduced the most NVH lol. If you miss it just pull it in drive it feels just like 1965 again lol. Crazy thing is with total new suspension on all 4 the car still has a spot from 70-75 that has the most V just like when it was bone stock.

[NickP]

Well, after reading specs etc. I have settled in on N5000 series Waldes Truarc snap rings for retention of parts.

[chevynut]

Are you planning to sell new dogbones and strut rods, or just modify stock ones, or both? Any idea on cost yet?

[NickP]

Are you planning to sell new dogbones and strut rods, or just modify stock ones, or both? Any idea on cost yet?

I do have the CNC program done for new but material isn't cheap and I don't know whether or not it would be cost effective.