Straight Scoop on Disc Brakes

[chevynut]

Markm while you're taking the tire pics from the front why don't you show us a picture of your front tires with your steering turned to full lock and your suspension bottomed out or at least compressed 3". That can happen while driving you know. Just turn up a steep driveway or other bump at full lock.

The the fact is lots of guys have rubbing problems with an overall tire width of around 68" or more. And you think 70" is okay? Not!! Almost nobody uses Chevelle brake rotors anymore. There are much better parts available.

[Rick_L]

Between mark, cnut, and the canines, all have behaved badly here and have presented no new information, or even new perspective. The attitude is pretty disgusting.

[rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017]

Mark apparently this guy built a high end show car like CNUT and must have used his famous tire calculator that says you got to have basically an 1-1/2 of clearance between the tire and fender lip or you may rub. This is the result you get. A high end car that looks like crap......
http://www.amcarguide.com/wp-content...5-nomad-01.jpg

[markm]

[QUOTE=rockytopper;35668]Mark apparently this guy built a high end show car like CNUT and must have used his famous tire calculator that says you got to have basically an 1-1/2 of clearance between the tire and fender lip or you may rub. This is the result you get. A high end car that looks like crap......
http://www.amcarguide.com/wp-content...5-nomad-01.jpg[/QUOT


Well he does get points for completion, but You are correct about look.

[55 Rescue Dog]

It would look pretty bad ass, if it had the same rear tires on the front. The ones that turn and stop the car. It takes a lot of rear weight bias to take advantage of huge staggered sizes, except drag cars. Otherwise the front gives up first. Which is safe, but never fun. Although on my car that loosely resembles a dirt track Camaro, without a plan, using what I had, the front track is
like 1 1/2 inches wider than the rear. I'm running close to the same set-up by accident, they ran on the dirt cars back in the day, except they were set up to go straight, turn left, and very fast on dirt. There were a lot of dirt roads in 55.

[markm]

Almost nobody uses Chevelle brake rotors anymore

Anyone ever wonder where Cnut gets his statistics, he is always saying things like this without citing a source.

[Maddog]

Between mark, cnut, and the canines, all have behaved badly here and have presented no new information, or even new perspective. The attitude is pretty disgusting.

You're correct, it is very disgusting reading the crap cnutroll says about others

[KNUB1945]

.

He's trying to convey a "half-truth" in showing the tire from the side with a stock or higher than stock suspension height (he supposedly has a bbc that we've never seen so they're not stock front springs) and with the car standing still with the wheels pointed straight ahead. For some reason he thinks guys should use those ill-fitting Chevelle rotors that we know move each tire outboard 7/8" into the line of the fender lip just because they work on his jacked up car.

Which rotors would be better than the Chevelle ones?

[hutchenc]

Man...you guys are brutal over here.

I'll tell my experience since I've had a few different front brakes on my '56.

I first had Heidt's 2" drop spindles with metric brakes and 10.5" rotors. Those were frickin' useless...almost ran into my garage door with them on once. Tire clearance was fine and I can't honestly remember, but I think I was running 15x8 Rallye wheels with 235/60/15 tires. It was fine on clearance inside and out. Those brakes were worthless. Pretty sure this is a pic of the car like that:



I swapped on a set of 2" drop CPP spindles with the '88-92 Camaro 1LE rotors (11.8" x 1") and aluminum D52 calipers. These were really good brakes actually...I shoulda kept them on there but I got upgraditis and went to Wilwoods (see below). I *think* they moved the wheels out 5/8" per side? I had both 15x8's on it and then 17x8's with 245/45/17 tires (wheels were a 0 offset I believe). Here's a picture of that set-up on my car (the clearance to the fender was close, but I don't have any measurements):



Then I went back to my Heidt's drop spindles along with a set of 12.2" Wilwoods with the aluminum hubs. These pushed the mounting surface out 15/16" per side I believe. So, what I did is found some Bullit Mustang wheels with a +30mm offset to deal with the wider WMS. The wheels were 17x8 (+30mm offset) with 245/45/17 tires. It worked out pretty good, but I did get some interference with the inside wheel lip and my sway bar at full wheel lock...I think a small spacer woulda helped. Honestly, the Camaro 1LE brakes were better than the Wilwoods.

Here's a picture of that (this was when it was slammed...the front lower control arms were sitting on the bump stops...I had to raise from there for obvious reasons):



I'm not done with my C4 swap that Cnut did for me, but I'm planning on running 17x9 Camaro SS 10 spoke wheels up front or C5 ZO6 17x8.5 ones...haven't decided yet.

[chevynut]

Which rotors would be better than the Chevelle ones?

There's a lot better disc brake kits available that don't push the wheels out 7/8" per side like the Chevelle brakes do. What exactly are you wanting to do? If you're going to spend the money on a kit, get one with zero or close to zero offset. The caliper bracket has to match the rotor so you can't just buy any bracket or any rotor.