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Thread: Brake upgrade questions

  1. #1
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    Brake upgrade questions

    I am looking to upgrade the drum brakes on my 57 210. As far as i know everything is stock non power drum with the stock spindles. Looking at all of the kits there are way too many choices and i could really use some advice. It seems like you can spend a lot or a little depending on power upgrade / slotted vented rotors vs non / 1 piston caliper vs up to 6 / drop spindle vs stock. I am running what i was told are 15x6 rally rims from a 70s Camaro. they are a tight fit but don't rub as of now. I assume to keep them i would need to go with drop spindle kits to not move the wheels out or a zero offset kit. I am not against the drop as i do like the look of a lower front vs the rear and have been told the drop will help with handling. So i guess what I'm really asking is what do i NEED and what kits would you recommend. Not looking at a high performance race car type of set up and dont want to break the bank either but want safe and reliable. Thanks in advance for any advice.

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    Here are some pics of the rims im running now.


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  4. #4
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    In the second gen Camaro world their are no 15x6 Camaro rally's, All second gen Z28s have five spoke 15x7 steel wheels , until the rubber baby bumper cars of the late 70s which had several versions of 15x7 alum wheels.

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    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    In the second gen Camaro world their are no 15x6 Camaro rally's, All second gen Z28s have five spoke 15x7 steel wheels , until the rubber baby bumper cars of the late 70s which had several versions of 15x7 alum wheels.
    Wheel Code: AU, Part #: 3983045, Center cap part #: 3989479, Trim Ring part #: 3984524. Effective for 1970 through 1973 RS dropped in 1974

    Last edited by WagonWonder; 01-17-2017 at 06:39 AM.

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    Yeah wouldn't surprise me to find out the rims came off of something else is there a good way to find out so i know exactly what i have?

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    Quote Originally Posted by WagonWonder View Post
    Wheel Code: AU, Part #: 3983045, Center cap part #: 3989479, Trim Ring part #: 3984524. Effective for 1970 through 1973 RS dropped in 1974

    Those are wheels that my 74 Z28 has on it, also used on 71/72 SS Chevelle. Came back in 77 on Z28 as std wheel. I have about 5 or 6 sets of them.

  8. #8
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Your wheels appear to be 'after market' wheels... You could take one off the car, turn the wheel over, and WASH it on the back very well.. MOST wheels are identified somehow on the backside. Take a good photo and if you can't identify them, maybe one of us can help you.
    I'm unaware that buying 'dropped spindles' is going to help you on the 'offset due to disk brakes'. If so, I certainly do not see the relationship there.

    There are disk brake kits (without the drop) which do not offset the wheel mounting surface. This is one here which has some good characteristics, although I haven't used it personally.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/1955-1956-19...item237ab70fed

    Note: I would prefer to use 'factory GM' parts if possible when doing such upgrades, and there are some options for using 60's or 70's GM disk brake parts for the upgrade (although I cannot comment on any wheel offset introduced).

  9. #9
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Call me a skeptic but I'm not convinced the disc brake kits that use the stock spindle are truly "zero offset". I've never seen anyone actually measure them to prove the manufacturers claims. I'd like to see a measurement from the wheel mounting surface to the upper balljoint center before and after installing the kit. It's possible that the hub is zero offset when compared to the hub/drum of a stock car, but you have the thickness of the rotors which is typically around 5/16" or so. That increases the wheel mounting surface by 5/8".

    Notice the rotors in that ebay kit appear to have an internal drum e-brake surface. I wonder what they're off. It looks like they're using the bigger late 60's Chevy calipers. And he has a RH caliper mounted on the left side . By the way, the kit is from MBM and the brackets are available separately if one was inclined to assemble his own setup.

    Has anyone actually measured these "zero offset" kits? I know the late 60's Chevelle rotors/hubs move the wheels out 7/8" PER SIDE for a total increase in wheel mounting surface width of 1 3/4". That can be a problem if you use wider tires and don't correct the offset with different wheels and I wouldn't recommend using any kits that use those hubs.
    Last edited by chevynut; 01-17-2017 at 08:03 AM.
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  10. #10
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    The brake conversions that are called "zero offset" are not technically so, but are very close. The difference between them and stock is just the difference between the thickness on the wheel mount surface of a brake drum (1/8" per side) vs. the thickness of a rotor (around 1/4" to 3/8" per side). So the extra offset is 1/8" - 1/4" per side. These brakes use a hub that has the dimensions of a 61-68 full size Chevy hub which is the same as stock, and the rotor is the rear rotor from a 79 Trans Am.

    The "usual" disc brake conversion uses the rotor from a 69-72 Chevelle or equivalent, which moves the wheel out by 7/8" per side. This will usually cause tire rub when turning, especially on a lowered car.

    Most dropped spindle packages that use some kind of stock rotors move the wheel out 5/16" - 3/8" per side from stock. The Earle Williams spindles are close to stock. Aftermarket packages are close to this too, but before buying you should check with the mfr.

    A 14" wheel that was made for disc brakes (both rally and aftermarket) will clear the Chevelle calipers rotors, the zero offset kits, and the stock rotor dropped spindle packages. Most aftermarket 14" wheels that were made from the mid 70s on are disc brake capable. Rally wheels were actually invented to be used with disc brakes, though not all are disc brake capable. This goes for 14" wheels with the 11" Chevelle rotor as well as 15" wheels with the 12" C3 Corvette rotor.

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