brakes

[mikes55]

I'm thing about taking off the power brake booster on my 55 chevy because the pedal is hard and it will not lock up the brakes due to not enough vacuum. I have wildwood disc brakes front and rear and would like to hear from a few tri five owners with front and rear disc brakes and what size bore wildwood master cylinder yall are using and the rod location on the pedal for manual brakes or how the same 4 wheel disc brakes are working with the power brake setup. any help would be greatly appreciated.

[markm]

That is why many guys with power steering use a hydra boost instead of a vacuum boost to assist brakes. I remember almost hitting my parents mailbox 40 years ago after installing a big cam in my 67 Camaro. Low vacuum really adversely affected what had been very good power brakes.

[mikes55]

wouldn't want to go that route

[BamaNomad]

The only thing a booster does is reduce the driver's pedal effort; it does not affect the actual brakes, or the car's 'braking ability' at all. If the driver has enough leg strength and control to depress the brake pedal to achieve the braking required, then he doesn't need a 'power booster'.

[chevynut]

The only thing a booster does is reduce the driver's pedal effort; it does not affect the actual brakes, or the car's 'braking ability' at all. If the driver has enough leg strength and control to depress the brake pedal to achieve the braking required, then he doesn't need a 'power booster'.

Well you could say that about power steering too...if your arms are strong enough manual steering is fine. So are crank windows.

If you can generate enough line pressure with your leg you're going to get the same braking as the same line pressure with a booster. The difference is the amount of force on the brake pedal....it's a lot less with power assist. It's not just about having enough strength, it's about comfort and effort to brake the car. I can't think of one new car that doesn't have power steering or power brakes.

Sure manual brakes can work if you want to work 2-4 times as hard pushing the pedal. Also, as you move to a smaller master cylinder the pedal travel increases. There is a pretty cool device I saw from ECI (I think) that helps take up the pedal travel and reduce the brake pedal travel. It has a stepped piston arrangement.

[BamaNomad]

Well you could say that about power steering too...if your arms are strong enough manual steering is fine. So are crank windows.
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Absolutely... all that is true.. My first new car was a special order 1970 Roadrunner, 4-speed, Hemi suspension, F60-15 Polyglas GT tires, drum brakes all the way around, and NO Power Steering or Brakes... It was me and the car, and I loved it.. ... I did have to use a little 'go pedal for 'rear steer' when needing to make sharp turns at no/low speeds...

[chevynut]

Why don't you try removing the booster and using your existing master cylinder first, to see if it works? What size bore does it have now? If you go with a smaller master cylinder bore, you're going to get more pedal travel. If you move the pivot down to get less pedal travel, it's going to take more force to stop. Brakes are kind of a balancing act.

I would go with a Hydroboost and forget it. I sell adapters for them.

[Rick_L]

I think you need to start with a 7/8" or 15/16" bore master cylinder. You need to go back to the stock pedal ratio if you have changed it. (That's the only natural way it goes together anyway.)

Trying it without the booster but with the same master cylinder will be a waste of time. That's essentially what you have now.

[mikes55]

wouldn't want to go that routwe

[mikes55]

what is the ratio on a stock brake pedal