Just joined? Please introduce yourself.
Page 6 of 9 FirstFirst ... 45678 ... LastLast
Results 51 to 60 of 88

Thread: Post Your Favorite Easy Shop Tips!

  1. #51
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2017

    Member #:3477
    Posts
    370
    Quote Originally Posted by BamaNomad View Post
    I've always braized the pickup tube into the pump plate (NOT the assembled pump), and I've never had any issues getting the pickup tube into the plate. After braizing the pickup I then use fine sandpaper on a thick piece of flat glass to ensure the surface of the plate is flat and will seal properly. When I assemble a pump, I also use the glass/fine paper to smooth all the flat rub surfaces of the pump parts and deburr/sand the edges. On assembly I use molybdenum disulfide grease on all the rub surfaces. I think these steps help to ensure that one never has a pump issue.

    BUT.. I'd still like to see a photo of your 'tool' for inserting the pickup, As well as a photo of the 'pickup retention clamp' you refer to...
    Bama-

    Here is the tool for driving on the pick-up:

    Attachment 9362
    Attachment 9363

    And here is the retainer that I got from Jegs:

    Attachment 9364

    I use the driver and retainer on every pump I put in after I set the pick-up to pan gap. For that I made a tool that is the depth of the pan and I set the pick-up about 3/8th off the sump bottom. Some guys use modeling clay but I dont want that crap in the pick-up mesh.

    Scorp

  2. #52
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016

    Member #:3217
    Location
    Rocket City, USA (Huntsville, AL area)
    Posts
    3,774
    Thanks for posting the photos, Scorp~! I haven't seen those tools/parts, but it's good to know they exist..

  3. #53
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011

    Member #:115
    Location
    Fort Collins, CO
    Posts
    10,835
    Seems to me that with 8 quarts of oil in my engine, worrying about pickup to pan clearance is not an issue. I can't see how +/-1/16" or even +/-1/8" or more makes much difference so to me it's a non-issue. The whole pump is submerged in oil almost to the windage tray and the pickup is below that. I left it the way GM shipped it.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  4. #54
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012

    Member #:571
    Posts
    4,671
    Obviously you've never had a pickup fall off or break. With no pickup other than the hole in the pump, you have good oil pressure if the vehicle is still or cruising steady. Any acceleration, deceleration, or turning uncovers the pickup and you lose oil pressure.

    If the pickup is too close to the bottom of the pan you have problems too. Too high is the same or worse than no pickup.

  5. #55
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2017

    Member #:3477
    Posts
    370
    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    Seems to me that with 8 quarts of oil in my engine, worrying about pickup to pan clearance is not an issue. I can't see how +/-1/16" or even +/-1/8" or more makes much difference so to me it's a non-issue. The whole pump is submerged in oil almost to the windage tray and the pickup is below that. I left it the way GM shipped it.
    CN

    Do you build your own motors? If you do you will be checking the pickup to sump bottom clearance.

    However, since I am just a random forum dude, just google "pump to pan clearance". Standard offered spec is 5/16th to 3/8th.

    I dont build a ton of motors, but every one I build I am rigid on spec and they run great. Same on transmissions. They are bulletproof.

    The detail matters- always does.

    Scorp

  6. #56
    Registered Member OLKY55's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013

    Member #:1704
    Location
    Fulshear, TX
    Posts
    89
    Over 40 years ago, when I was in High School, I put together a new motor for my 55. I had pressed in the pickup, the best I could. It ran good with good oil pressure. However, one day I happened to look at the oil pressure gauge while braking hard (something you really don't normally do) and the pressure dropped to 0 psi. When I finally got around to taking the engine apart, I found the pickup laying comfortably in the bottom of the pan.
    1955 2D HT, 1957 2D Sedan, 2004 Z06 Corvette, http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/OL...?sort=3&page=0

  7. #57
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017

    Member #:3360
    Location
    Canton,Ohio
    Posts
    260
    The guy that pay's the closest attention to the details is always easy to find, He's the one winning!

  8. #58
    Banned
    Join Date
    Nov 2015

    Member #:2775
    Posts
    1,426
    I found a great way to slow down my single-speed 4 1/2 inch angle grinder with what used to be called a router speed controller, for less that $20 online. They have the same thing at harbor freight, but was out of stock. Unless I'm cutting, or hogging off a lot, I find my sanding discs are working better. lasting longer, cooler and quieter, and easier to handle, when slowed down a ways, like 25%. I have a Milwaukee variable speed grinder but now I can use my smaller one. Wire wheels last years, instead of days too. I actually bought the speed controller to slow down the blower on my Hobbyair 2 fresh air respirator,which blows way to much air, making the air warm, and very loud. I now am using it as a fresh-air supply to my welding helmet blow a gentle breeze inside the hood. You can use the speed control on any "universal" corded motor that use brushes. Not for use on an induction motor like on a drill press.

    IMG_4945.JPG
    Last edited by 55 Rescue Dog; 01-18-2019 at 07:56 AM.

  9. #59
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016

    Member #:3217
    Location
    Rocket City, USA (Huntsville, AL area)
    Posts
    3,774
    I wish there was a way to slow down my Baldor buffer! (3450 rpm) which is way too fast for my limited buffing skills! an alternative to slowing it down is to sell it and purchase a two speed model.

  10. #60
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012

    Member #:571
    Posts
    4,671
    You may find that buffing and high speed go together. There's a reason that buffer motors are 3450 rpm instead of 1725 rpm.

Page 6 of 9 FirstFirst ... 45678 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •