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Thread: Post Your Favorite Easy Shop Tips!

  1. #61
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    I didn't know they had single-phase variable frequency drives (VFD) for induction motors on the market until just now. That might work great on a drill press, buffer, etc. There are endless programming options, if you can figure it all out. I am going to start thinking of one to make better use of my drill press. Changing belt/pulley positions all the time on my 15 speed Jet drill press is a PIA. That could be very handy just changing speeds with a dial.

    https://www.ato.com/single-phase-vfd
    Last edited by 55 Rescue Dog; 01-18-2019 at 03:19 PM.

  2. #62
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick_L View Post
    You may find that buffing and high speed go together. There's a reason that buffer motors are 3450 rpm instead of 1725 rpm.
    I understand the 'truth' in that.. .... but the idea of attempting buffing/polishing of a 3-4' long piece of stainless trim with my 10-12" wheels at 3450 leaves me with a mental image of the trim wrapped around my neck... or stabbing me to a wall.. I'd really like to slow it down at times!

  3. #63
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    I had to come up with a good way to remove locking lug nuts that a couple other shops couldn't do, and these 2 ways worked. I have destroyed a couple of reverse twist sockets trying to get some off, but most locking lug nuts are harder than the socket. The first one I just made 6 evenly spaced tack welds that a 3/4 socket fits over, and while still warm they all loosened up easily by hand. On the second one the wheel bolt was recessed too deep in the wheel, so I taped a 3/4 hex jam nut to the nozzle of my mig welder and pulled the trigger for a couple of seconds. Make sure and put the ground clamp on the brake rotor or wheel, so the welding current doesn't go through the wheel bearings.
    IMG_5896.JPG

  4. #64
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    IMG_7167.JPGI was trying to come up with an easy way to plug the dozen holes in my floor pan that were used for different seats, and belts over the years. I ended up using 1/4in carriage bolts that worked out pretty good being able to use the stud you hold it in place. Just used my angle grinder, and cordless drill to spin them down to size, and ground the dome down until the head was like 1/16in thick. Tacked in place, then cut the stud off the head, and finished welding.
    IMG_7166.JPG
    Last edited by 55 Rescue Dog; 11-18-2019 at 03:08 PM.

  5. #65
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    Since I hate welding fumes as much as paint fumes, I've been using my Hobbyair fresh-air respirator. It works great, especially when there is junk on the backside like paint/undercoating. I just drilled 2 small holes in the chin of my welding helmet, then looped a wire tie around the feed hose. I use a router speed control to dial the airflow down to a gentle breeze to my nose and eyes. I also use a remote controlled outlet to turn it on, or off. These outlets are great when you don't have any switched outlets. They are less than $15 for 3 outlets, and a remote. I use a couple to turn on neon lights.
    IMG_7198.JPG

  6. #66
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    RD, all you need is remote controlled welding music...

  7. #67
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    I decided my new Paragon wheel skates would be a lot handier if they were taller for working under the car, so I made some platforms to rest on top of the skates which raised the tire another 5 inches. It puts the frame up to 16 inches, which makes it much easier get under it to line up the frame to the body, which I will still need to do a couple more times. It also made it easier to install the engine/trans since I could move the car a little instead of the cherry picker. It's like having 4 rolling jack stands.
    IMG_8308.JPG

  8. #68
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    RD... I LIKE that idea, but you should be VERY CAREFUL while under the car on those elevated 'rollers' to not accidentally knock it off or make one of those tire dollies tilt over...

  9. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by BamaNomad View Post
    RD... I LIKE that idea, but you should be VERY CAREFUL while under the car on those elevated 'rollers' to not accidentally knock it off or make one of those tire dollies tilt over...
    It's actually very stable, more so than even jack stands, except it can move. I couldn't knock it off if I tried. Plus for bolting some stuff together I like to have the suspension loaded to limit twist in the chassis.

  10. #70
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    That dog looks like one of my labs cut off at knees.

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