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Thread: Restored liftgate

  1. #31
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    CN: The retainer across the top performs the same function as the 'stainless strip' down each side, so you could model it after those.. If I were to guess, I'd say the portion that is 'tacked' or fastened to the roof is ~ 1/2 - 3/4" in width, and the 'foldable part' is ~ 3/8-1/2" in width. Of course the length is the width of the liftgate opening. Here's a photo I took during my w/s replacement on the '56 which shows the 'foldable' portion bent up and cleaned in preparation for installing the new W/S...
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  2. #32
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Thanks guys for the info and pics. Mike, I think I bought the seal from you when you did my liftgate if I recall correctly so I should have one. In fact, I've probably bought a couple others over the years....lol!

    Bamanomad, that pic really helps. Like I said I don't remember my Nomad ever having one of those and I don't see any sign that it did but I've had it so long I could have forgotten.

    Looks like it's pretty thin, much thinner than 20 gauge (.036"), maybe 22 gauge (.030") like Mike said or even 24 gauge (.024"). Also looks like it butts up against the roof on the folded side. I'm guessing you'd want it bent to about a 45 degree angle, so you could tap it down after the seal is installed? Or is that too tight of a bend and would make seal installation difficult? I've never messed with one of these.

    As for installation I have a spot welder but it seems like it would be best to install this AFTER paint to make sure it gets painted above/behind it. So stainless steel pop-riveted in place looks like the best route to go. I'd like to get the holes drilled in the body before paint.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


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    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  3. #33
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    The Mr Nomad SS replacement part is probably 24 ga, and the original is either 26 or 28 ga

    The original is 1/2 inch wide, the repro is almost 5/8 and 42 3/4" long















    Last edited by LEE T; 05-26-2017 at 05:17 PM.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    As for installation I have a spot welder but it seems like it would be best to install this AFTER paint to make sure it gets painted above/behind it. So stainless steel pop-riveted in place looks like the best route to go. I'd like to get the holes drilled in the body before paint.
    What material will the pop rivets be made of? Right now my plan is to use body panel adhesive.

  5. #35
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Thanks for the pics Lee. It looks like there's a pretty large radius on that bend. Is that necessary? Are both legs around 5/8". Not sure how critical that really is to fit the seal correctly.

    I have both steel and aluminum pop rivets. There shouldn't be much stress on that retainer so I would think either one would work. What issues do you think there might be?
    Last edited by chevynut; 05-26-2017 at 07:48 PM.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  6. #36
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    One leg is about half as long as the other on both the original and repro.
    I wouldn't use alum rivets on steel over a long term.

  7. #37
    Registered Member MadMooks's Avatar
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    Another one a customer just installed.


    Last edited by MadMooks; 06-06-2017 at 04:40 PM.

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