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Thread: 56 Safari Wagon Project

  1. #11
    Administrator 567chevys's Avatar
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    Hello Andrew ,


    Is this the item you where saying to use ?
    I have used them for years , They work great !!!

    Use for cleaning and finishing on all metals for removal of light rust, oxides and coatings.

    Scotch-Brite™ Roloc™ Surface Conditioning Disc, 2 inch, Coarse
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    1955 2 DR Post
    1937 Chevy Coupe
    2015 Chevy HD2500 duramax crew Cab LTZ
    2013 Ford Edge Limited
    1955 Chevy Nomad
    1934 Plymouth PE Coupe

  2. #12
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    Thanks, I'll order a couple and give them a shot..

    Got the front sheetmetal back on today, I'm having a bit of difficulty getting the door gaps to line up. I'm following the Danchuk article here https://www.danchuk.com/images/Downl...djustments.pdf . I torqued the body mounts down, however there is a large amount of cancerous rust in the floor pan so I don't know how much it helped. The passenger side of the floor braces connect to the inner and outer rockers, but the drivers side inner to outer rocker is mostly separated and not . I'm wondering if maybe this might also be working against me in getting things lined up.

    Both doors have a gap at the top toward the cowl and push out.




    The bottom side is relatively close on both, they look similar to this.




    I'm struggling to get the top side to push in at all. I've loosened up the hinges per the article and tried moving things around. I can get them to budge a little bit but by the time I get the door back open to snug them down everything is pretty close to where I started. When re-assembling the front sheet metal the drivers side fender took some coercing to get everything mounted back up. At some point it had a minor accident on that side and is shifted down a little. I wouldn't think this would affect the doors as much as what I'm seeing, the fenders seem to line up relatively close to where they should be on the top of the cowl next to the windshield.
    Any suggestions on getting the doors to line up? Should I remove and inspect the doors and hinges and try starting from scratch?
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  3. #13
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 56Safari View Post
    Should I remove and inspect the doors and hinges and try starting from scratch?
    That's what I'd do. Make sure the nut plates in the door jamb are free to move. Make sure the hinges are good. The fender looks too close to the cowl to me, but the doors look too far out. I fought this and ended up getting the door where it needed to be relative to the rocker and quarter, then matched the fender to the door. I had to slice the cowl and move it outboard. My car was never wrecked.

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    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension

    You can see my 56 Nomad build here http://www.picturetrail.com/chevynut

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  4. #14
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    Thanks, for the closeups that was helpful/motivating to head back into the shop to take a further look. I took both hinges out and inspected them. The bushings have a little play so I think I will go ahead and order a set of replacement bushings for the hinges. The area below the lower hinge was filled with debris.



    And after extensive vacuuming




    I'm pretty sure that buildup helped fuel the rotting of my floors. The lower hinge nut plate also has one stripped hole, so I'll need to get that replaced. I was able to get the door gap a lot closer, it still isn't perfect but I'll wait until I get the new nut plate to tweak that side any further. Also, I think you're right about the fender gap its a little close. Because I'm seeing the gap on both sides I believe the front might be sagging or pushed down a bit and exaggerating that gap at the doors. I'll look into that tomorrow.


  5. #15
    Registered Member rustay56's Avatar
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    The 2 inch Roloc disc is great on your 90 deg die grinder for small areas but we need to think bigger.3M make a 4in & 5in one for your grinder. Norton make a 7 inch one as well. Get the purple one with the back support. Dont lean on it hard just let the disc do its job and be careful when you come into contact with the panel as it will remove metal. I would remove most of the the paint and filler before I set all my gaps, That front fender might have had a hit sometime in the past and the profile might not be correct so it makes your door look worse. Good Luck.

    Regards Andrew.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by rustay56 View Post
    I would remove most of the the paint and filler before I set all my gaps, That front fender might have had a hit sometime in the past and the profile might not be correct so it makes your door look worse. Good Luck.

    Regards Andrew.
    Thanks, I'm mainly just trying to get my door gaps set before I do my 1 piece floor pan and outer rocker install. I think I will follow Cnuts advice and line the doors up with the rear quarters first. It looks like I'm going to be waiting at least 1 more week before this shop has the Dana 44 ready for me, so if I can get everything lined up I may go ahead and move the frame over to start on the floor pan and open that can of worms.

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